[Cafe33]

0.5% Castor oil doesn’t sound like much. 

The oils which come to mind for oily/acneic skin are Squalane and Jojoba Oil.

I have been experimenting with the following formulation:

Squalane  45% 
Almond Oil  (qs to 100%)
Jojoba Oil 10% 
Castor Oil 5%  
Tocopherol Acetate 0.8%
Essential Oil Blend 0.2% 

I am ordering a small amount of Racemic Bisabolol from BASF but not sure how to incorporate it yet. I might also consider replacing some of the Squalane with CCT. So far the testers enjoy how the oil sinks in the skin very quickly. 

Some oils which are listed as non comedogenic on the internet blog type websites are

Argan Oil
Black Current Seed Oil
Blueberry Seed Oil 
Babassu Oil
Pomegranate Oil 
Rosehip Oil 

I might add a few of these oils as claim ingredients. 

 

[Cafe33]

Thank you for your post Belassi. 

What is the target pH when neutralizing Ultrez-20?  

And by comparison, how would I find out how to neutralize Carbopol 940? 
Do I need to have direct contact with Lubrizol or is the information available for different materials? 

[Cafe33]

Perry said:

I could make a product that works pretty much exactly the same using only the following ingredients…

Water, Decyl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Cocoyl lsethionate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Glycol Distearate, Glycerin (Vegetable), Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Fragrance (Essential Oil Blend), Sodium Benzoate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Everything I’ve omitted is simply a marketing ingredient included to help boost their marketing story.

I hope I’m not hijacking the thread but what would be theoretical usage rate for Decyl Glucoside? It is coming in first behind water. Wouldn’t some pH adjustment be needed or the Sodium Benzoate would not do its job ? 

[Cafe33]

Personally, I believe silicones have reached a point of categorization in line with parabens and sulfates. We love silicones in our own personal products but we dont add it into our hair care formulations. We thought we might have some issues with Silicon Dioxide since it is close to the word Silicone but we educate on that point. 

[Cafe33]

Kukui Oil is a very nice carrier and not too expensive. Ive used it in massage oils, it has a very thin non greasy feel 

[Cafe33]

You have somewhat managed to lower the pH to 5.5? What does that mean? That seems like a low target pH for a product containing 9.8% soap. 

Fragrance oil is hydrophobic so it will tend to migrate to the micelles formed between the surfactants and water in the shower rather than deposit on the
skin.

As far as a way to correct this, I am currently studying encapsulation of fragrances but in no way do I have the expertise to give advice. Would love to hear some opinions as well. 
 

[Cafe33]

In my region there is a Lubrizol distributor with smaller pack sizes. 

Carbopol 940 - 100g for 3.00 USD

I dont see the Aqua 30 Polymer listed

[Cafe33]

I have the BASF Puricolor® Black PBLK7-L (Pigment Black 7)

https://www.btc-europe.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Pdf_s/Industries/Puricolor_EN.pdf

[Cafe33]

Hi ngarayeva001, thanks for your response. I have tried a second test batch using the SCI powder instead of the prills. It gave a much more uniform mix and was easier to work with as I did not have to melt it. I will be attempting several different techniques for shaping the bars. I find that they are difficult to shape evenly using silicone mold.

I have a bath bomb press, I am wondering if I could press the shampoo bar with SLSa?