Forum Replies Created

  • bellbottom

    Member
    August 18, 2020 at 7:28 pm in reply to: Skin absorption of soap with additives

    Right! Of course she got all offended so I sent a bunch of scientific articles about cutaneous absorption her way.

  • @Perry this is a great idea for an online workshop!

  • bellbottom

    Member
    March 6, 2020 at 2:19 pm in reply to: Suspending pigments

    Did you blend the pigments together before you incorporated them into the cream? Seems like you didn’t, which is why you see streaks of individual colors. 

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 2, 2019 at 6:12 pm in reply to: Small Particles in Facial Oil

    for example, I store all my oils and butters in a dedicated fridge, and some oils (like sweet almond, pracaxi, jojoba) solidify/congeal/thicken in very cold temperatures and get little particles like this. they disappear after the oils have been warmed up.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 2, 2019 at 6:11 pm in reply to: Small Particles in Facial Oil

    looks like they could be from the oils themselves. some oils have lipids that solidify at different temperatures. try warming up the oils gently first to blend them really well before bottling.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 2, 2019 at 5:55 pm in reply to: How do you check and correct beaker volume marks?

    Perry said:

    @bellbottom - You should do all your measurements in mass (aka weigh them on a scale). Using volume to measure liquid is not a good idea when formulating.

    Thank you!

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 1, 2019 at 9:47 pm in reply to: Making lipsticks

    Doreen said:

    @bellbottom
    ?

    What about these! ?

    LOVE THEM!!!!!!!

  • bellbottom

    Member
    May 31, 2019 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Grey brown base, heat related?

    it is normal for pigments to darken (oxidize) when in contact with the skin’s oils.

    but yeah, in this case, it’s just waaaay too much pigment. because you can see the bottom part is darker because it reacted with your skin, while the top dry layer is fine. try reducing the % of pigments and it will probably be fine.

  • i have tried time and time again to use spirulina in a hairspray (mostly for color - it’s “mermaid” inspired) and the lovely sea green lasts about a day, then it turns funky colors and then the product looks gross, yellowy and yucky. 

    spirulina is a b*tch to work with! it’s totally unstable and smells… fishy.
    PLUS it does not dissolve in water - just suspends.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    May 31, 2019 at 8:15 pm in reply to: Making lipsticks

    LOL i love the faux Dior  :D

  • bellbottom

    Member
    May 31, 2019 at 8:10 pm in reply to: Titanium dioxide affect color

    TiO2 and ZnO both are opacifiers, and will always affect the final color by making it lighter and more opaque. 

    if you want a tint to be sheer, remove both opacifiers and use something like a starch, silica or other oil-absorbing powders.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    May 31, 2019 at 8:02 pm in reply to: Oil in Clay Masks

    have you ever used a clay mask? because when you say “I want this product to be less viscous than most clay masks so I can put it in a bottle” it sounds like you’ve never actually touched a clay mask. clay masks are not liquid, if they are runny they will not stay on your face. they are not viscous and run. they are like thick mud, to stay put and not run down your neck. and they certainly will not come out of a bottle (too thick and goopy) and probably clog the pump when the clay inevitably dries. 

    if you are using water AND oil, yes you need an emulsifier. but not just because of the EOs, as they will be absorbed by the clay. essential oils are not true oils, but they are hydrophobic. and of course you would be using them at probably 1% or less, because that is the most common safe ratio for cosmetic facial skin use.

  • silica, clays, starches (corn, yucca etc).
    with clay and starch, less is more. 

  • bellbottom

    Member
    May 31, 2019 at 7:49 pm in reply to: How do you check and correct beaker volume marks?

    pardon my ignorance, since i am not a chemist, have no lab training and i am just a hobby formulator wannabe  ;)

    but how do you measure liquids then, for a liquid-only formula?
    i know that in a formula with liquids and solids you measure everything by weight not volume, but what if it’s all liquids?

  • bellbottom

    Member
    April 11, 2018 at 7:00 pm in reply to: How to Make a Dry Body Oil Using Aloe Vera Juice

    by dry body oil do you mean one that will absorb quickly? then look into oil absorption rates. oils like macadamia are called *dry* because they absorb super fast and leave a dry feeling afterwards.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    March 9, 2018 at 3:49 pm in reply to: Glitter goes where?!

    this is EXACTLY what has been missing in my love life! vagina glitter! 
    totally safe, totally beautiful, and totally necessary!

    oy vey. 

  • i know this wasn’t the question, but if your lips are so dry you must be dehydrated. DRINK WATER. then drink some more. then some more. 

    also: exfoliate your lips to remove dead skin cells that prohibit an emollient from penetrating. you can use sugar to exfoliate, not hard enough to hurt, just remove the flakes, as often as needed. if your lips are covered in tough, dry skin, nothing you apply will help. also, apply coconut oil at night. it is wonderful for dry skin and heals very quickly.

    my point is — you have an easily treatable condition, but instead of taking easy steps to fix it, you want a magical product that does what you can’t be bothered to do. :) 

    also - water hydrates, not oils/butters/etc. these are emollients.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    March 9, 2018 at 3:29 pm in reply to: Mixing powders in solid and liquid lipstick making

    yes, you can use powdered TiO2 with iron oxides and micas.

    how to combine the colorant phase depends on what else is in this phase. mix by hand? heat to melt? 

  • bellbottom

    Member
    February 1, 2018 at 1:37 pm in reply to: Liquid liner not drying

    post the formula or else we don’t know what you’re doing.

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 21, 2017 at 12:53 pm in reply to: Troubleshooting - magnesium stearate

    @Perry thanks for commenting! I watch all your videos and it is a pleasure to “speak” to you!
    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ thanks for the tip!

    I will try the knockout experiment for sure! At least, I will try without the c-wax, since I have already tried removing the MS and the makeup did not last on the skin at all. I have also tried without corn starch but it feels too oily on the skin. (I would love to use silica instead of the starch for oil absorption but I cannot buy that here in Brazil.) One thing I plan on doing next is also to decrease the MS to 5% and then adjust the formula accordingly.

    The process I use is: I melt the MS over direct heat as it does not melt in Bain-Marie (melting point is around 200F) with my vegetable oils. As soon as it is melted (solution is not cloudy) I add the C-wax. When that is melted, I incorporate the powders and I do a little dance called “remove from heat and stir like crazy and then place over heat again and stir some more and repeat ad nauseam” until it is all incorporated. One super fun part of this is when the powders, specifically the corn starch, is added, the MS BUBBLES UP like crazy (hence the remove from heat part). Finally when all the bubbles are gone and everything is melted/incorporated I pour the rapidly solidifying goop into a container. 

  • bellbottom

    Member
    June 21, 2017 at 12:46 pm in reply to: Troubleshooting - magnesium stearate

    @Bobzchemist Thanks for commenting!

    *natural* is a funny word, isn’t it? LOL Basically, I see *natural* makeup products with MgSter or Zn stearate etc, so I’m using that criteria.

    “What grade of Magnesium Stearate are you using?” I did not know there were different grades. I guess I would say I acquired some pharmaceutical grade MS? I am in Brazil and here it is possible to buy some formulating ingredients from pharmacies in small quantities.

    “What temperature are you heating your batch to?” around 200F since MS has a high melting point.

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