belassi
Forum Replies Created
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Add more spiders.
(Sorry, could not resist…) -
Polyquart H-81
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Anything works that results in the correct pH. If your KOH isn’t working, then your KOH is no good. It may be potassium carbonate by now.
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From China, typically two to three weeks. The amusing thing is that I have never had a problem importing all sorts of powders, white and otherwise, from China, by post. But if sent by courier eg DHL… stopped by customs.
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Now consider the implications even if your proposed formula could be stabilised at 45C.
Coconut oil: smells unpleasant.
Shea butter: the smell is also offputting for many people.
Coconut oil has a comedogenic rating of 4.0 out of 5. (can cause acne by clogging pores) -
Given your preconditions, I don’t see how you can be helped.
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You cannot lower the pH. Citric acid is death to CP soap.
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What problems have you experienced? You understand, I can’t just look at your LOI and tell you what to do. I would have to make it myself and see what happened. The preservative is not good against mould but it could be that the EOs would be sufficient. I think the 0.6% EO is way too much. Maybe 0.3% tops?
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I’ve made all sorts of experiments with CP soap. Clays, yes, produce good ‘slip’ but cannot be used in much % or the bar becomes brittle. Cornstarch no, because I think the high pH would turn it brown. Stearic acid, only with HP soap because the reaction runs away and ‘rices’ with CP.
You can look up the saponification factors for the different oils and try to choose ones that liberate less glycerin, but, this limits your combinations and you may not produce a soap with the desired characteristics.
Climate has a noticeable effect. In winter I had little problem due to low humidity. When humidity is high, the glycerin absorbs water vapour and the soap sweats unpleasantly. For me, storing stock in sealed packages wasn’t desirable either.
Syndet bars avoid this problem. Of course, we don’t have a ten-ton press handy to mould the bars!
So now I just make HP soap for the family. Although I don’t use it myself. I prefer synthetics.
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I buy it from Conjunto Lar, in Mexico. I don’t normally buy more than about 250 grams because I don’t want too much in the refri for too long.
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I use method B.
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This is one of the reasons I gave up making CP soap except for personal use. I was never able to fix that problem.
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If this were my problem I would have to begin by experimenting to see what I could use. My initial thought is that your formula has no CAPB in it and that is a cheap surfactant used by most manufacturers so why not. So I’d replace at least half the decyl glucoside by an equivalent active % of CAPB and see how that compares, as a first step.
By ‘GMS’ do you mean glyceryl monostearate? What’s that for?
is DHA dehydro acetic acid? I don’t like the idea of that in a shampoo.
5% glycerin is way too much. -
As a tiny manufacturer, in my opinion our biggest problem is that we lack the funds to do market research. Too often I develop what I think is going to be a popular product, but it turns out not to be; and sometimes, a product developed just as a fun project turns out to be the unexpected best seller.
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Not really. I use coffee to make shampoo for instance… but the water used to make the coffee is indeed R.O. water.
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I assumed that some guy rushes in from stores department and shouts, “Hey guys, all this stuff is about to expire! For the sake of the Marketing God please dream up some miracle formula to get rid of it all.”
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As Perry said. If you don’t know what you’re doing then begin with a tried and tested method. There are many ways to make a good shampoo, but your formula isn’t one of them.
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Terrible choice of surfactants.
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From the consumer point of view, it is hard to tell the difference. From a production point of view, there’s rarely if ever a failure of a carbomer emulsion. The downside from my point of view is that I lack a temperature-stabilised pouring system, which makes the carbomer cream more difficult to handle as it tends to thicken just at the temperature you want to pour at. I use a thermos-style dispenser so as not to lose temperature too quickly.
A second consideration is, at the temperatures you’d want to add actives and certain preservatives, the cream is already ‘set’. So it doesn’t suit all creams. -
Yes. It’s a carbomer cream. First thing I copied, 8 years ago. Evelyn & Crabtree hand cream with organic shea.
940 gives a sensorial pretty much indistinguishable from the original. -
It IS good. I never understood why it’s not sold in the USA, which is still using more primitive substitutes.
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Basically you are spraying yourself with water that smells of roses. That’s it.
Next question, please… -
Agreed, Perry. Disappointing.