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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating peptide face cream formula

  • peptide face cream formula

    Posted by Joliee on December 15, 2019 at 11:30 pm

    Hello I am in the process of formulating a peptide face cream and I cant seem to get the formula right. When applied it leaves a slight tacky finish and the skin is not soft and it drags. This is for personal use and for family members at the moment. Can you help me maybe I am using the ingredients incorrectly. I have researched a few ingredients but the end result is the same.  A few of my additives like the peptides/ceramides are based in glycerin so maybe thats why the final product seems to be slight tacky and leaves a slight soaping effect. 
    Thank you all so much for helping me. 

    Rose Distillate - 61.1%
    Panthenol - 1%
    Allantoin -0.5%
    Niacinamide- 1%
    Watermelon Extract (powder form) - 1%
    Glycerin - 5%
    Xanthan Gum- 0.3%
    Sodium Hyaluronic (high Molc) 0.2%

    Olivem 1000 - 4%
    Glyceral Stearate - 1.2%
    Cetearyl Alcohol - 1.2%
    Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride- 4%
    Watermelon Seed Oil - 3%
    Jojoba Oil- 2%
    Argan Oil - 2%

    Bisabolol- 0.7%
    Rose Extract - 0.6%
    Green Tea Extract- 0.2%
    PISUM SATIVUM PEPTIDE - 2%
    Matrixyl Synthe’6( Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, glycerin, water)- 1.5%
    HYDROLYZED LUPINE PROTEIN- 2%
    SYN-COLL(Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glycerine) - 1.5%
    Vegetable Ceramides (Glycerin & Glycosphingolipids)- 2%
    Vitamin E - 0.5%
    Amticide VAF( Bacillus Ferment & Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate)- 0.5%
    Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) 1%

    sven replied 3 years, 3 months ago 11 Members · 24 Replies
  • 24 Replies
  • jemolian

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 3:08 am

    If there’s already glycerin in your ingredients, you might just want to deduct some percentage of it off the 5% you are using if not it would be too tacky. 

    For the soaping, you can add some silicone? Probably about 0.5% to see how it goes. 

    For the Panthenol, you can also move it to the cool down phase? Not sure about the Watermelon Extract too?

  • EVchem

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 1:08 pm

    Soaping is almost definitely from Olivem at 4% but like @jemolian said silicone should take care of it. 

    I’m also wondering about the watermelon powder, how concentrated is it? ex if I used 200x aloe powder at 1% I would certainly expect stickiness. I’ll be really surprised if your allantoin is dissolving fully given how many other powders you have to dissolve.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 1:33 pm

    Here are several observations

    Rose Distillate - 61.1%  - Serious challenge to preservation (aka bug food) replace the majority with water
    Panthenol - 1% - Too much, it has no proven benefits, reduce to 0.1% 
    Allantoin -0.5% - ok
    Niacinamide- 1% - ok
    Watermelon Extract (powder form) - 1%
    Glycerin - 5% - sounds a bit high but it’s a matter of taste
    Xanthan Gum- 0.3% 
    Sodium Hyaluronic (high Molc) 0.2% - I would remove xanthan, as together with HMW HA it will contribute to a snotty texture

    Olivem 1000 - 4%
    Glyceral Stearate - 1.2%
    Cetearyl Alcohol - 1.2%
    Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride- 4%
    Watermelon Seed Oil - 3%
    Jojoba Oil- 2%
    Argan Oil - 2%

    Bisabolol- 0.7% - Sounds high. I read it’s effective even at 0.1%
    Rose Extract - 0.6%
    Green Tea Extract- 0.2%
    PISUM SATIVUM PEPTIDE - 2%
    Matrixyl Synthe’6( Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, glycerin, water)- 1.5%
    HYDROLYZED LUPINE PROTEIN- 2% - another bug food
    SYN-COLL(Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glycerine) - 1.5% - in my experience, it can have a negative impact on viscosity in many systems.
    Vegetable Ceramides (Glycerin & Glycosphingolipids)- 2%
    Vitamin E - 0.5% - too high, reduce to 0.2% max!
    Amticide VAF( Bacillus Ferment & Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate)0.5%
    Euxyl PE 9010 (Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin) 1% - too weak for the amount of bug food you add. Consider pairing with something else or replacing for a stronger preservative.

    Additionally, as it was mentioned above, it’s going to soap badly, so you would be better off replacing that olivem to Arlacel 165 (Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate) and adding some dimethicone.

  • Joliee

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 4:49 pm

    @jemolian tysm ! I thought 5% might have been high with the amount of glycerin based extracts. would you happen to know a more natural based type of silicone besides dimethicone ? 

  • Joliee

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 4:52 pm

    EVchem said:

    Soaping is almost definitely from Olivem at 4% but like @jemolian said silicone should take care of it. 

    I’m also wondering about the watermelon powder, how concentrated is it? ex if I used 200x aloe powder at 1% I would certainly expect stickiness. I’ll be really surprised if your allantoin is dissolving fully given how many other powders you have to dissolve.

    The watermelon powder on the site Formulatersampleshop.com does not say how concentrated it is but that you can use it 0.5%-5% in formulations. For the allantoin it takes a little bit of heating up to dissolve it.

  • lewhitak

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 9:33 pm

    Personally I have experienced sticky skin sensations from proteins.

  • jemolian

    Member
    December 17, 2019 at 2:52 am

    @Joliee there are some available but i’ve not tested them out at the moment since i’m usually using volatile silicones. Not sure how much soaping reduction can natural silicone replacements will be capable of since they seem to be only replacing them for skin feel purposes. 

  • Joliee

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 12:46 am

    @ngarayeva001 Have you had success with Ritamulse(Ecomulse)? I have that as well.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    December 19, 2019 at 2:30 pm

    You’re using way too many ingredients at too high a level.  If you are making a peptide cream, use peptides. Water, Oil, emulsifier, humectant and peptides.

    You don’t need to use Panthenol, watermelon extract, Sodium Hyaluronic, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Rose extract, Green tea extract, Hydrolyze protein, Vegetable ceramides, or Vitamin E.

    More ingredients do not make products work better. 
    Fewer ingredients are often more effective and certainly easier to formulate with.

    The stickiness can be the result of any number of those ingredients or some combination. But you have so many ingredients in your formula, it’s anybody’s guess on how to fix it.

    When formulating, start with a simple, basic formula that has minimal ingredients each of which has a specific purpose that improves upon a previous formula. 

    Why use Hyaulronic acid & glycerin? They do the same thing.
    Why use Jojoba oil & argan oil, & watermelon seed oil & Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride? It’s unlikely you could tell any difference if you just use the Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride by itself.

    Formulating is like cooking…fewer ingredients is better. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 19, 2019 at 7:06 pm

    I don’t know whether French folks with their megacomplex hard to make sauces would agree :)

  • Belassi

    Member
    December 21, 2019 at 11:23 pm

    I began using the same polypeptides several years ago and it’s our best seller. I’ll just check the formula… ah yes. I use 3.5% peptides, and instead of 5% glycerine, 3% and 1.5% of glucam E20. I used to use tea extract like you, but the powder is too unstable so I switched to pine bark extract. You must add the peptides at low temp or you get pea soup.

  • Joliee

    Member
    January 17, 2020 at 7:34 am

    @BelassiThank you so much !I think i’ve been using way to high of a percentage for peptides. thank you for the tip on adding when formula is cold, i was adding them when it was still a little warm .

  • hugi28

    Member
    January 26, 2020 at 9:42 am

    Can you tell me what is the molecular weigh of the peptide pisum sativum? How can it work effectively if it is higher then 500Da? 

  • Pharma

    Member
    January 26, 2020 at 2:20 pm
    @hugi28 Why 500 Da? Are you referring to the Lipinski rule of five?
    This rule applies mainly to drug bioavailability by oral route and not necessarily to skin penetration, let alone effectiveness of cosmetic ingredients which mostly act on the skin and sometimes within the uppermost skin layer.
    Heparin as an example penetrates skin although it heavily violates everything in Lipinski’s rule and we don’t really know how or why.
  • sven

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 10:26 am

    @Belassi, what are the typical pricing for the pea peptides you are able to source? Locally its even more expensive than the croda product  :(

  • Belassi

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 3:24 pm

    About $75 / Kilo.

  • sven

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 3:36 pm

    Wow its costing 375 USD /kg here. 

  • Belassi

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 4:40 pm

    The brand I use is called Proteasyl™ LS 8951
    It’s a BASF product. See ULP for details.

  • sven

    Member
    January 29, 2020 at 4:51 pm

    Thank you so much. I will check and get some pricing in the morning. Have a fantastic day

  • sven

    Member
    January 31, 2020 at 10:03 am

    @Belassi BASF South Africa quotes that polypeptide at USD 1266 per kg 

  • Belassi

    Member
    January 31, 2020 at 3:49 pm

    Good grief.

  • raveena

    Member
    February 13, 2020 at 4:23 am

    Belassi said:

    The brand I use is called Proteasyl™ LS 8951
    It’s a BASF product. See ULP for details.

    Hi Belassi 
            Where do you buy this product from? Would they sell small quantities?

  • Belassi

    Member
    February 13, 2020 at 4:11 pm

    I buy it from Conjunto Lar, in Mexico. I don’t normally buy more than about 250 grams because I don’t want too much in the refri for too long.

  • sven

    Member
    February 13, 2020 at 4:32 pm

    Very nice belassi. 1kg smallest pack size here