[beautynerd]

@Belassi: I’m interested to see how the performance matches up. It’s significantly cheaper. Making Cosmetics and the Herbarie have it. 

[beautynerd]

@mikethair, this is good information. Thanks for sharing.

Would humidity in the room be a factor?

[beautynerd]

Do you have a Lucas Meyer rep? “Defenscalp” looks interesting.

There are a few clinical studies to support the anti-inflammatory activity of oenothein-b.

[beautynerd]

@vitalys - does dmg stand for distilled glycerol monostearate?

[beautynerd]

Wow… glad I refreshed this page again. Thanks @Bill_Toge !

I was busy playing around with these free tutorials to see if I could teach myself…
http://www.ausetute.com.au/massmole.html
http://www.ausetute.com.au/molpcent.html

Now I know the right answer so I can go back and fix my calculating errors. Sweet. 

[beautynerd]

Thanks @Belassi … that gets me closer. Since the product will be anhydrous, I can disregard the left side of the chart. Now to find out the meaning of solute mole fraction… 

[beautynerd]

They would be soaps to appeal to tourists of the Far North. So the wild game tallow is essentially the story line. “Bear and Honey”, “Beaver and Birch”, “Wild Moose”… you get the idea. 

Although, I do see the potential for a waste lard project in my husband’s rural Mexican hometown. Many small scale abattoirs and women in need of a sustainable craft industry. I think an environmentally conscious/fair trade/traditional craft spin may overcome the initial distaste for animal products. As long as they are aesthetically pleasing. 

I might be encouraged to try it if I just knew how to handle the stench. 

[beautynerd]

@Dilfre: I am interested in the refining process to remove unpleasant odor from animal fat. We are looking at using small amounts of wild game lard in CP soap. Can you elaborate on the steps?

[beautynerd]

Thanks @Bill_Toge 

The best I could come up with is this supplier’s brochure that suggests Radish oil has the same skin feel as Isopropyl Palmitate while performing a barrier function superior to IPP. 

And this study that states:

“Long chain fatty acids (≥
14 carbon atoms) and very long chain fatty acids (VLCFAs; ≥ 22 carbon atoms)
are more hydrophobic and therefore have a greater ability to prevent water
loss. The absence of VLCFAs results in a smaller, weaker and more permeable
stratum corneum. VLCFAs have been shown to be reduced in the skin
of patients with atopic dermatitis”

and,

“Our
results, although preliminary, suggest that patients with papulopustular rosacea may benefit from a physiological lipid treatment aimed at replacing VLCFAs.”

So, I’m supposing erucic acid being a VLCFA (C22) should make radish and abyssinian oils good candidates for moisturizers as long as they’re not overly comedogenic.  

[beautynerd]

@JD: This may be of interest to you…

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2840924/ 

[beautynerd]

Interesting they would state it is soluble in water as none of the individual components is particularly water soluble.

There is some more information of the glyceryl caprylate/glyceryl undecylenate combo on the attached datasheet under “Plantaserv N”. Looks good.

Ingredients To Die For warns against it being a penetration enhancer. Wonder if it would be irritating for overly dry skin. Other than that it looks pretty good. Especially the glyceryl caprylate being effective against p. acnes in concentrations as low as 0.1%

[beautynerd]

Solubility data for Tristat Eco which is identical to Kem Nat

Solvent %w/w

Water <0.1%

Ethanol >50

Glycerin >50

Propylene glycol >50

Ethylhexyl palmitate >50

Octyldodecanol >50

Mineral Oil 1.2

[beautynerd]

@Belassi one of these links should work:

https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1253488.pdf?bs=75&b=31821&st=20

https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/804/31779/Cetiol-CC&nbsp;
“in Brochures”

[beautynerd]

Thanks for posting this @Belassi, was interested to know how you achieved hydrolysis.

[beautynerd]

Not sure how much Ambrette you’ll need but if I was blending with it and Tea Tree, I would look into adding Amyris EO, Orange Blossom Abs and Ginger Lily Abs to my arsenal.

[beautynerd]

@Belassi… agreed on the fluff but the dry shampoo and ‘buffy’ (lotion bar w/physical exfoliants meant for shower use) are worth a try

[beautynerd]

We’ve also had a hell of a time trying to source wide mouth glass jars in any size between 50 and 100 grams. Finally had to bite the bullet, up our MOQ and source overseas.

[beautynerd]

Thuja occidentalis EO - Maximum dermal use 0.4% (based on a total thujone content of 61.4% and a thujone dermal limit of 0.25%). Safety hazards: neurotoxicity Contraindications: pregnancy, breastfeeding Source: Robert Tisserand, Essential Oil Safety: A Guide for Health Care Professionals

[beautynerd]

Perhaps they have in vivo test results

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6m8BQlS7-g8/UArVdKi8yJI/AAAAAAAADFs/tcUDGbkm9Hg/s1600/ChemicalExplosion.jpg  

[beautynerd]

@Belassi - I’m sure you’ve done infinitely more thinking on this but since I’m intrigued by it; here are my ideas on unique selling points for a Lush type concept in your location…

- small handmade batches for many items, some product made on location if possible
- sensory experience, minimal packaging for visual/tactile/aromatic interest
- ingredients indigenous to central/latin america: guava, mamey, prickly pear, etc … (donkey milk and oatmeal shampoo anyone?)
- solidarity in using local ingredients, employing locals in handmade processing as a counterpoint to more industrial processes of the North.*

*Inherent added value in assuaging consumer’s guilt over spending more than necessary on every day toiletries when an authentic social cause (grassroots economic development) is associated with it. 

[beautynerd]

Interested to hear how it goes!

[beautynerd]

A tottle might work.

I’ve got some toothpaste packaged in one. Works well. Hate fiddling with toothpaste caps in the morning.

Making Cosmetics sells hp starch… http://www.makingcosmetics.com/HP-Starch_p_292.html

[beautynerd]

@Belassi - do you have access to hydroxypropyl starch phosphate?

Might be worth a try to do a variation of AkzoNobel’s Squeeze & Clean Washing Paste formula on UL Prospector. I’m assuming the thicker the product the easier to suspend less than colloidal oatmeal.

[beautynerd]

Is anyone familiar with succinic acid as a peeling agent?

See attachment

[beautynerd]

@LisaLise : Or you could just make your own 😉

http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-6197-phenethyl-alcohol-phenyl-ethyl-alcohol.aspx?keyword=phenethyl+alcohol