Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Erucic Acid

  • Erucic Acid

    Posted by beautynerd on August 2, 2016 at 4:06 pm

    I’ve been looking into carrier oils like abyssinian and radish seed for facial care application.

    Both are relatively high in erucic acid which is promoted as giving them their ‘silicone-like slip’. They also boast a 2 yr shelf life. 

    However, I can’t find any studies good or bad relating to erucic acid and skin. Are they likely to cause problems for acne prone skin?

    Does anyone know of any studies other than the ones that say it might cause heart disease if ingested in large doses?

    beautynerd replied 7 years, 9 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    August 2, 2016 at 11:00 pm

    if there are similar studies for oleic acid you could in principle use their findings as a rough guide, seeing as they’re structurally very similar

  • beautynerd

    Member
    August 3, 2016 at 1:20 am

    Thanks @Bill_Toge 

    The best I could come up with is this supplier’s brochure that suggests Radish oil has the same skin feel as Isopropyl Palmitate while performing a barrier function superior to IPP. 

    And this study that states:

    “Long chain fatty acids (≥
    14 carbon atoms) and very long chain fatty acids (VLCFAs; ≥ 22 carbon atoms)
    are more hydrophobic and therefore have a greater ability to prevent water
    loss. The absence of VLCFAs results in a smaller, weaker and more permeable
    stratum corneum. VLCFAs have been shown to be reduced in the skin
    of patients with atopic dermatitis”

    and,

    “Our
    results, although preliminary, suggest that patients with papulopustular rosacea may benefit from a physiological lipid treatment aimed at replacing VLCFAs.”


    So, I’m supposing erucic acid being a VLCFA (C22) should make radish and abyssinian oils good candidates for moisturizers as long as they’re not overly comedogenic.  

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