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  • alan123

    Member
    May 25, 2020 at 10:08 pm in reply to: How to add fragrance oils to lotion

    Thank you @Pharma Do you think
    1% Fragrance oil
    1% Tween 20
    1% Tween 80

    would be good? (adjusted to match hlb)

  • alan123

    Member
    May 25, 2020 at 4:29 pm in reply to: Beginner’s Question About Home Mixer Equipment

    A £10 hand mixer is sufficient for 100 grams

  • alan123

    Member
    May 9, 2020 at 3:53 pm in reply to: Non aqueous gel

    It is a bit complicated to find Ajinomoto stuff however I will receive soon 1. Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
    and 2. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

  • alan123

    Member
    May 9, 2020 at 1:06 pm in reply to: Containers

    Alibaba 

  • alan123

    Member
    May 5, 2020 at 11:35 am in reply to: Non aqueous gel

    Thank - I found a source for Silica Dimethyl Silylate. I will try to find more options

  • alan123

    Member
    April 29, 2020 at 12:58 am in reply to: Why vitamin c make my gel liquid?

    Carbomer is not electrolytes resistant pick a different thickener 

  • alan123

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Discussion - Polarity of emollient and Active ingredients

    Source - Dermatologic,
    Cosmeceutic, and
    Cosmetic Development
    Therapeutic and Novel Approaches - Edited by
    Kenneth A. Walters
    An-eX Analytical Services Ltd.
    Cardiff, United Kingdom
    Michael S. Roberts
    School of Medicine, University of Queensland
    Princess Alexandra Hospital
    Buranda, Australia 

    https://www.amazon.com/Dermatologic-Cosmeceutic-Cosmetic-Development-Therapeutic/dp/0849375894

  • alan123

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 3:50 pm in reply to: Discussion - Polarity of emollient and Active ingredients

    An idea to have 2+active ingredients matching 2+ main emollients +  and a third emollient with high RPI 

  • alan123

    Member
    April 26, 2020 at 3:46 pm in reply to: Discussion - Polarity of emollient and Active ingredients

    “SKIN DELIVERY AND CLINICAL EVIDENCE VALIDATING THE FORMULATING
    FOR EFFICACY CONCEPT

    We have used the formulating for efficacy concept to make skin delivery–optimized
    formulations containing octadecenedioic acid, a novel skin whitener. Formulation
    A was made without using the Formulation for Efficacy concept and contained
    2% active ingredient. Formulation B was made using the formulating for efficacy
    concept and also contained 2% octadecenedioic acid. The exact composition of the
    formulations is provided in Table 1. The only difference between the formulations
    is the choice of the emollients. Propylene glycol isostearate is used as the primary
    emollient in formulation B, whereas triethylhexanoin was used as the secondary
    emollient. Skin delivery experiments using the two formulations on full-thickness
    pig skin were performed and showed a statistically significant, 3.5-fold increase in
    dermal delivery (Fig. 5) (5).
    The delivery result (Fig. 5) illustrates that the formulating for efficacy concept
    delivers significantly more octadecenedioic acid into the skin. The fact that this increase was 3.5-fold is accidental because this depends on the extent of skin delivery
    from the formulation that was not optimized for skin delivery. Therefore, it cannot
    in general be stated by what factor skin delivery will increase using the formulating
    for efficacy concept. But both formulations contained 2% active, yet the delivery was
    much more effective from the second optimized formulation.
    (…)
     In both studies, 20 subjects applied either formulation
    A or B for a period of eight weeks twice a day.
    The chromameter measures the L, a,
    and b values that characterize the color of any object. The L scale is the luminosity scale and its extreme colors are black and white; the ΔL value represents the color
    difference on the L scale relative to the start of the study. The results of these two
    studies are compared in Figure 6.
    The skin delivery–optimized formulation B showed not only an increased skin
    delivery but also an increased skin efficacy. Theoretically, there should be a direct
    correlation between skin delivery and clinical efficacy, and this was confirmed in the
    enhancement factors, 3.5-fold for skin delivery and 3.2-fold for clinical efficacy.
    (…)
    However, there is more that the formulating for efficacy concept can achieve.
    In a delivery-optimized formulation, it is the ratio between the primary emollient,
    the secondary emollient, and the drug, active ingredient, or cosmeceutical that optimizes the flux of the penetrant relative to its concentration. What will happen to
    the skin delivery of the active ingredient if the percentage of the oil phase is reduced
    and in doing so the amount of a lipophilic active in the formulation is also reduced?
    Because the ratio between the three constituents of the oil phase is not changed by
    this reduction, delivery expressed as μg/cm2
    /hr should remain the same, although
    delivery expressed as a percentage would increase.
    To prove this point, a third formulation was prepared, formulation C, in which
    the oil phase was halved relative to formulation B (see Table 1 for composition), and
    this formulation was also clinically tested for its skin whitening efficacy. The clinical
    results of formulations A, B, and C are shown in Figure 7. Relative to formulation
    A (which contained 2% octadecenedioic acid and was not optimized for skin delivery), the clinical effect of formulation C (which contained 1% octadecenedioic acid
    but was optimized for skin delivery) was enhanced by a factor of 3.9. There was no
    statistically significant difference in clinical efficacy between formulations B and C, whereas there was between formulations A and B (P < 0.05) and formulations A and
    C (P < 0.002). This proves that it is the ratio between drug, primary emollient, and
    secondary emollient that is of importance, and not the absolute concentration of the
    drug in a formulation, that determines the clinical efficacy. However, this does not
    mean that one can infinitely reduce the concentration of the cosmeceutical in the
    formulation because there will be point that there is simply not enough drug left in
    the vehicle to obtain the minimum effective concentration at the target site. Studies in which the concentration is continuously reduced, that is, from 1.0% down to
    0.05% octadecenedioic acid, are underway to determine the optimal concentration
    in the formulation. The optimal concentration (or OC100) in the formulation is defined here as the minimum concentration of the active ingredient at which maximal
    efficacy can be obtained and should not be confused with the minimum effective
    concentration (or MEC) at the target site(…)”

  • alan123

    Member
    April 23, 2020 at 5:02 pm in reply to: Aha fruit extract

    I spent many months reading, over 100 hours in formulating and thousands in ingredients to create one formula. It is not cheaper.

  • alan123

    Member
    April 23, 2020 at 1:23 am in reply to: Need to knock a little greasiness out of a natural lotion…

    yes

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 11:40 pm in reply to: My formula so close but not quite there! Help!

    Why would anyone want to use a body lotion with 80% oil?

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 11:34 pm in reply to: Need to knock a little greasiness out of a natural lotion…

    @Graillotion  I am saying you can try and see the results yourself. However, this silicone free battle is quite absurd. There is no logical reason behind trying to achieve this claim.

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 3:34 pm in reply to: Ingredients test and analyse

    Thank you Perry!

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 3:32 pm in reply to: Ingredients test and analyse

    Yes - I understand. But. 

    What I am looking for is an independent laboratory that will analyse independently and not biased. 

  • Sepinov EMT 10 - INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

    I haven’t tried it yet but it supposed to do it.

    Or Sepimax Zen Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (supposed to work)

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 8:51 am in reply to: Need to knock a little greasiness out of a natural lotion…

    you can try Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate or 

    Isoamyl Laurate
  • alan123

    Member
    April 19, 2020 at 11:35 am in reply to: How to add Hyaluronic Acid

    It can be a bad batch/supplier. I’ve never had problems mixing it.

  • alan123

    Member
    April 19, 2020 at 11:33 am in reply to: Buy alpha arbutin and kojic acid

    cosmeticingredients.co.uk

  • hyaluronic peptide - What is the function of this ingredient. I couldn’t find any studies about it or supplier. 

  • alan123

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 11:45 pm in reply to: Thickening agent vs salts

     @EVchem I will try to find Sepimax Zen. Thank you

  • alan123

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 2:45 pm in reply to: Thickening agent vs salts

    I have added more of current thickener EasyMix 0.5% and the lotion regained the texture. Unfortunately when I use it on skin it creates small balls like dead skin.

    I have tested base + thickener and water + I have added only salicylic acid and the lotion suddenly lost consistency. 

    Also, I have change Salicylic Acid to Sodium salicylate with citric acid and sodium bicarbonate and the effect is similar.

  • alan123

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 12:52 pm in reply to: Is my formula any good? + some Vitamin C & Retinol related questions

    HYALURONIC ACID 7%? Is this possible?

  • alan123

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 11:33 am in reply to: Formulate a lightening knee cream

    You can use Kojic acid dipalmitate and a skin penetration enhancer? PG or something else

  • alan123

    Member
    April 15, 2020 at 11:28 am in reply to: Cetearyl Alcohol + Cetrimonium Chloride => The harder Emulsifier

    Not enough ingredients to create a stable formula. See the following 3 examples with Cetrimonium Chloride

    _____________-

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