Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Need to knock a little greasiness out of a natural lotion…

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  • Need to knock a little greasiness out of a natural lotion…

    Posted by Graillotion on March 30, 2020 at 10:35 pm

    I make natural, very light feeling lotions….I know how to make them by ingredient selection.  But here is my dilemma.  I have taken on the endeavor of creating a natural mosquito lotion, and have my ingredients pegged…. Not just the traditional EO stuff we have all seen and tired, only to find ineffective, but the entire base structure of the lotion is formulated with carrier oils thought to be disdained by insects.  That being said….I can not exchange my oils for lighter ones, or simply reduce their inclusion rate without losing efficacy.  So in light of the fact that the end market will be ‘natural’ (somewhat) users….what can I add, to give a drier feel?  I am open to both natural and synthetic options, but would of course prefer the natural.  One thing that came to mind was…I have not yet selected a fatty alcohol for the finished product…can I  reduce the greasy feel…via alcohol selection?
    Note: I have also not finalized the emulsifier….as many can not hold this formula together…..I have several in transit…that I hope will fit.  So far E-wax NF is doing about the best job… 
    So open to all thoughts….but if emulsifier or fatty alcohol can do the job…. those spots are still wide open in this formula.
    Note: Formula already includes about 7% Ethyl alcohol (used as a solvent).

    Thank you in advance.

    Doreen replied 4 years ago 5 Members · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • EVchem

    Member
    March 31, 2020 at 11:56 am

    I don’t think emulsifiers/ fatty alcohols will be able to impact greasiness as effectively as adding starch, clay, or some other filler. 

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 1, 2020 at 1:13 am

    EVchem said:

    I don’t think emulsifiers/ fatty alcohols will be able to impact greasiness as effectively as adding starch, clay, or some other filler. 

    Thank you…. I do use some Arrowroot powder….apparently not enough (.7%).

    Where I got the idea about the emulsifier….as I am working on another lotion…. the emulsifiers I have experimented with….seem to have a drastic effect on the oiliness or dry feel….after the first 10-15 min.  165 leaves a dry feeling skin….very shortly after use…whereas the Botaneco Hydresia…. leaves a very smooth and silky feel, that feels like the some of the oil is still on the surface.  (Not a negative oily)

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 21, 2020 at 11:23 pm

    What about IPM?  All the sites selling it….promote it as reducing the greasy feeling?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 2:36 am

    EVchem said:

     adding starch, 
     

    What would be the typical range….of a starch?  I am using Arrowroot powder….and at less than 1%.

    Any thoughts on IPM as a greasy reducer?

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 8:51 am

    you can try Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate or 

    Isoamyl Laurate
  • Pharma

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 6:16 pm

    Arrowroot is very rich in starch and therefore considered as starch ;) .

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 6:19 pm

    Pharma said:

    Arrowroot is very rich in starch and therefore considered as starch ;) .

    Yes, thank you… I guess I was asking….at what rate should it be included, to achieve a noticeable difference?…. And maybe….at what rate….is too much?  …. meaning you can start to detect its presence in a negative way.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 6:21 pm

    alan123 said:

    you can try Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate or 

    Isoamyl Laurate

    Are you saying…. IPM will not help reduce a greasy feeling?

  • Pharma

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 6:47 pm

    …at what rate should it be included, to achieve a noticeable difference?….

    You will have to try because it depends on the formulation. 2-5% is a good point to start. More than that is unlikely to give good results.
  • Pharma

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 6:53 pm

    alan123 said:

    you can try Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate or 

    Isoamyl Laurate

    Are you saying…. IPM will not help reduce a greasy feeling?

    IPM, ethylhexyl stearate, isoamyl laurate and most other synthetic esters are medium (IPM) to strong (isoamyl laurate) spreading and absorb fast which results in a dry feeling. They do only reduce oiliness if you replace part of the oilphase with them. Just adding them on top won’t do much regarding greasy residue but will modifying haptics and rheology (less tacky feeling during application).

  • alan123

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 11:34 pm

    @Graillotion  I am saying you can try and see the results yourself. However, this silicone free battle is quite absurd. There is no logical reason behind trying to achieve this claim.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    April 22, 2020 at 11:48 pm

    alan123 said:

     this silicone free battle is quite absurd. There is no logical reason behind trying to achieve this claim.

    So if you were to choose a silicone to accomplish the less greasy thing….what would be your pick?  I have only cyclomethicone on hand.

  • alan123

    Member
    April 23, 2020 at 1:23 am

    yes

  • Doreen

    Member
    April 24, 2020 at 1:15 am

    What about DryFlo? It’s a selection of modified starches that’ve been irradiated, so from a microbiological point of view it’s better than foodgrade starch.
    I added a document about it. It’s available in several DIY shops (Glamour Cosmetics in Italy and Voyageur Soap & Candle for USA/Canada for example).

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