Cosmetic Chemist and AI course 
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Formulate a lightening knee cream
I need to formulate a whitening and exfoliation cream simultaneously I have formulated a cream but the results are not strong
Water 65%
Mineral oil 15%
Em wax 5%
Cytel alcohol 3%
Ve 1%
Urea 8%
Kojic acid 5%
Alpha arbutin 4%
Vc 4%
Retinol 0.8
Mullberry extract -
9 Replies
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What problems are you seeing? The type of instability can be a great clue as to what’s going wrong.
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I did not notice any clear peeling or lightening -
You can use Kojic acid dipalmitate and a skin penetration enhancer? PG or something else
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Lightening is not going to happen overnight- how long have you used the product for? Also what form of vitamin C are you using?
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EVchem said:Lightening is not going to happen overnight- how long have you used the product for? Also what form of vitamin C are you using?
L ascorbic acid
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You are going to have pretty short shelf-life/stability. Ascorbic acid and Kojic alone at the levels you have them will brown and destroy your emulsion pretty fast (plus your retinol if it is retinol at 0.8% would likely cause some serious irritation, also easily loses potency)- unless you are making this formula in air-free conditions/packaging? If your vitamin E is tocopheryl acetate my personal opinion is remove it- it has no proven antioxidant ability on the shelf, and poor activity topically. It it’s tocopherol 1% might be overkill, possible pro-oxidant.
If you want lightening and exfoliation I’d say an AHA type product is your best bet, but that’s not something to mess with unless you have a pH meter and should only be used at night or applying sunscreen after
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Did I mixed Aha, Vc, kojic acid, and B3 or no??
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Not sure I understand your question?
I don’t see any AHA’s (things like lactic, glycolic, mandelic acid). Those will provide chemical exfoliation and lightening but can make the skin sensitive, and you need a ph meter (not strips) or you could make the product unsafe.If you put Kojic acid and ascorbic acid in at 5% and 4%, you will see stability issues with your product. Those ingredients go bad fast in water/presence of oxygen.
I also don’t see B3 (Niacinamide). That one is worth putting in (in my opinion), there are several studies that show a couple benefits from that material being applied topically.
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You can increase your concentration of alpha-arbutin powder to 5% for better whitening effects.
You can also check some of alpha-arbutin formula recipes for your ref.
Meanwhile, try to replace the kojic acid with kojic acid dipalmitate for a change.
All in all, whitening is not achieved by one day’s work.
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