[Abdullah]

Remove cationic guar. 
That’s it.

[Abdullah]

PhilGeis said:

Abdullah said:

@PhilGeis 500 ppm formalin, or formaldehyde which equals 1351 ppm of formalin? 

Formalin ~37% with a little methanol.   But formaldehyde releasers are so much better in stability, safety in manufacturing and avoiding chemophobic hysteria

Thanks

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

@PhilGeis I agree that formaldehyde in solution has a different behavior and inherent risk compared to the gas. Actually, the mixture formaldehyde-MIT/MCIT-EDTA is the best system I’ve ever tried.
what was the percentage of these ingredients in this mixture and the usage rate?

@k@ketchito

[Abdullah]

0.15%. as a preservative geogard ECT because of this amount of SA is not allowed for leave on children products i guess it is effect ????.

[Abdullah]

@PhilGeis 500 ppm formalin, or formaldehyde which equals 1351 ppm of formalin? 

[Abdullah]

@ketchito is it banned in US too?

This is the cir report conclusion from 2012

[Abdullah]

helenhelen said:

The diagram in the intro in this article is also useful https://www.mdpi.com/2504-5377/2/1/3/htm

Thanks a lot

[Abdullah]

This is the composition of DMDM hydantoin. That is why i said if 0.2% DMDM hydantoin is equivalent to ~0.1% formalin.

[Abdullah]

Dungngo said:

Graillotion said:

Urea will cause drift.

Does this product feel good to you?

Thanks ! Will take note of that. The moisturizer has a very smooth feel due to the shea butter I put it so I really like it.

Interesting that you like the feel of Shea butter. I use it at 0.5% only because i have purchased 25kg of it and have to use it in some way. I will not purchase it again. 

[Abdullah]

@Bill_Toge thanks for explanation.

One more question.
If in DMDM hydantoin 45% is wayer and ~18% is total formaldehyde, what is the rest of that? And does it function as a strong preservative as the rest of formaldehyde? 

[Abdullah]

You can increase the batch size.

What size do you make now and what homogenizer?

If using stick blender the head should never come out of the liquid

[Abdullah]

mikeylamar said:

Graillotion said:

mikeylamar said:

I have a question regarding silicones, dimethicone
in particular. I want to buy a silicones specifically for skincare lotions.
There are many different types of Dimethicones available and I was wondering
what the differences were between them and which ones are the industry standard
in cosmetic skincare. I wanted to buy Dimethicone 350 or 1000 but it seems like
the global silicone shortage has affected supply.

·        DM350
Dimethicone

·        Dimethicone
1000

·        DM6
Dimethicone

·        Lotioncrafter
EL40

·        Cyclomethicone
(and) Dimethicone – to my understanding Cyclomethicone is mainly used in
haircare as it’s better for rinse off products

Also, how do silicones compare to natural
alternatives such as olive derived ester or something like Coco
Caprylate/Caprate. As it’s naturally derived, will it eventually absorb into
the skin?

Additional question: I have seen niacinamide
supplements sold online for much cheaper. Is it okay to use this type of
niacinamide in skincare products? My concern is that it may contain
nicotinamide, which I don’t know how beneficial this is in skincare.

It would have been helpful…had you stated the purpose of the dimethicone and possible alternatives…. So I’ll try and read your mind…and take a stab at it.

I will assume one of the main things you were trying to accomplish…was to alleviate soaping.  @chemicalmatt is of course spot on…with the Dimethicone 350 as being the ideal choice.  It can do at .3-.5%…what the alternatives will do less well with 5%.  I have gone down that route early on….and there are no true alternatives….just lesser poser’s trying to unthrone the king.

I have found on the ultra lite products I make…even the lite olive type esters…add an unwanted oiliness, and do not add half the haptics that something like Isoamyl Laurate would bring to the formula.

IMHO…cyclomethicone is a beautiful beast unto itself… mix this with the proper polymerics, pentylene glycol…and cyclomethicone…and heaven awaits.  Texturally….feels nothing like dimethicones to me.

Sorry, I should clarify. I am trying to use Dimethicone for its emolliency and slight occlusive benefits in a lotion.

For this reason buy 350 sct or above. 

What is CCC?

You can use anything but nothing is like dimethicone. It will function as skin protectant at 1%. Petroleum at 30% and other emollients at even higher percentage. 

[Abdullah]

You will be helped to understand correctly what you need to understand from the course. Don’t worry.

Mr. Perry has a nature to educate people what they need to learn. 

He is even trying to educate his customers when selling a product. No one does that.

Look at phique shampoo.

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

@Abdullah Generally speaking, above a pH of 10, you’ll have EDTA with 4 carboxylic groups available to form the complex with metallic ions, while at a pH of 4, you’ll have only 2 (still being able to form a stable complex with divalent ions, but less with ions of higher oxidation state). 

Thanks

[Abdullah]

Congratulations ????

[Abdullah]

Graillotion said:

I have a new favorite:

Pelemol 899

INCI Name: Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

And yes..I tried them both individually…but definitely a synergy together.

Aloha.

Thanks for sharing

[Abdullah]

abierose said:

Abdullah said:

AZIZ_KALUNGI256 said:

PhilGeis said:

As Pharma noted - sorbate/benzoate concetrations are too high  - drop each by 50% - and you don’t need both.  Suggest addition of phenoxyethanol.

In production, the water phase will grow microbes if you let it sit around.

Thanks.  I will try to source phenoxyethanol. 
Its rather scarce over here though

How do you know what scares people?
In my opinion asking people what is scaring you is not a good idea.

The best way to know is to check what preservative does the big companies, most popular products that majority of people in your area purchases use. This way you van know majority of people aren’t scared of that preservative. 

I think what AZIZ meant was it is difficult to source/get Phenoxyethanol…scarce as in rare or hard to come by ???? 

My misunderstanding.

Thanks for correction

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

Abdullah said:

you may use this silicone. Very close to petrolatum for TEWL but 20 times more expensive.

That graph shows that common dimethicones (350 cst, and surely the 1000 cst as well) are way more permeable than petrolatum. Increasing the chain lenght of the alkyl group in an alkyl modified silicone decreases permeability for sure, but in the practice, I haven’t seen a higher chain lenght than C16 (cetyl dimethicone), which is still somehow permeable. 

SiCare 264-70 is C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone.

[Abdullah]

you may use this silicone. Very close to petrolatum for TEWL but 20 times more expensive.

[Abdullah]

zetein said:

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate is very common.

Alkyl phosphate or acyl methyltaurate is common too.

Thanks

[Abdullah]

ketchito said:

@Abdullah SLES/SLS have shorter alkyl chain lenght and lower ethoxylation, compared to common anionic emulsifiers used in emulsions (that’s why they are used more as detergents, not to mention the amount of foam they’ll cause during the emulsion process). Chances are your SLES/SLS would reside more in the water phase of your emulsion, and won’t do much to stabilize it. If you want to use an anionic surfactant to stabilize your emulsion, there are few to choose from, which are more common in those type of systems. 

I know two other anionic surfactants, SSL and GMS citrate but these two doesn’t work well in pH 4. Do you know any anionic surfactant that works well at pH 4 for emulsion stabilization?

[Abdullah]

Just add SA to your cleanser and adjust the pH to lowest that your surfactants can support. It doesn’t need any solvent in cleansing product. You already have enough surfactants to solubilize it. 

[Abdullah]

Pharma said:

Depends on your formulation.

Yes i know 5% of total emulsifier. But is there any upper limit for these two surfactants because of irritation or they are safe like other anionic surfactants in leave on Products?

[Abdullah]

Paprik said:

Are you using any silicone that cuts micro foaming? yes dimethicone 5cst
If so, try to remove it and see. If it foams on the skin when rubbing, then yes, you are having too much emulsifier. that is a good point

However, if you are happy with the viscosity/creaminess and no one is experiencing any irritation (from anionic emulsifiers) you can leave it as is. no one experiencing any irritation but it is said too much emulsifier to oil ratio reduces long term stability the same as too little emulsifier to oil ratio. And 3-4% emulsifier to 5% oil looks high in ratio. My consern is about stability. 

You may also avoid anionic emulsifier for this % lipid input, use only non-ionic which most likely won’t cause any irritation and you’re safe.  the percentage of of anionic surfactant is low, below 0.8%. 
I was even thinking of using SLES or SLS but i don’t know what are there upper limit in leave on Product and common usage rate that doesn’t cause problem. 

[Abdullah]

I would add xanthan gum and do the rest of my work.

If it hydrates immediately, why wait?

If it need some time, i would continue my work in lower viscosity that is even better and at the end it will hydrate anyway. So again why wait?

To find hiw much time it needs, mix 1% xanthan gum with glycerin or glycol ,add to water and mix with high shear. The see how much time it take to thicken.