Cutting Through The Confusion Between Natural and Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients
The “natural vs synthetic” debate is one of the most persistent and misunderstood topics in cosmetic formulation. It’s also where marketing often clashes with science.
If you’re a formulator, especially someone building your own product line or working with clients, you need to be able to separate opinion from function. That means asking the real question:
Is this ingredient fit for purpose? Not: Does it sound natural?
Let’s unpack what these terms really mean, what the science says, and how to navigate this space without falling into hype.
What Do We Mean by “Natural”?
Some standards, like ISO 16128, attempt to define what counts as naturally derived, but they aren’t legally binding. Some retailers have also created their own standards but those aren’t widespread and don’t have any legal premise. In practice, “natural” may refer to:
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Direct plant extracts (e.g., cold-pressed oils, essential oils)
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Processed but plant-derived compounds (e.g., ethylhexylglycerin, coco-glucoside)
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Any ingredient claimed to come “from nature,” regardless of processing steps
Most “natural” ingredients are chemically processed to improve safety, performance or shelf life. The idea that natural equals untouched is a myth.
What Counts as Synthetic?
“Synthetic” simply means the ingredient was made through a chemical process, usually in a lab or industrial facility. This doesn’t make it unsafe or undesirable. It just means it was engineered, often for consistency and performance.
Examples:
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Silicones (e.g., dimethicone)
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Preservatives (e.g., phenoxyethanol)
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Polymers (e.g., carbomer)
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Petroleum-derived emollients (e.g., mineral oil)/
Many synthetics are chemically identical to compounds found in nature they’re just lab-produced. So again, the “natural vs. synthetic” distinction is often more about marketing than chemistry.
Safety Is Not About Source
One of the most widespread misconceptions in cosmetics is that “natural” means safe and “synthetic” means harmful. That’s not how toxicology works.
Toxicity depends on the dose and context, not the source.
Examples:
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Clove oil is natural, but a known skin sensitizer.
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Petrolatum is synthetic, but highly refined and non-irritating.
Every ingredient, regardless of origin, must be evaluated based on:
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Use level
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Skin compatibility
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Stability and purity
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Regulatory status
As a formulator, safety should be evidence-based, not emotionally driven by a label claim.
Focus on Function, Not the Buzzwords
In formulation, your raw materials need to:
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Perform their intended role
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Stay stable in your system
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Be safe at their use level
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Meet your regulatory and marketing requirements
If a “natural” emulsifier keeps breaking in your emulsion, it’s not the right ingredient, even if it sounds appealing. Similarly, a well-tested synthetic polymer may be the only way to achieve the texture or stability you need.
If marketing limits your options, then formulation becomes a technical challenge. But science should guide your choices, not fear-based messaging.
Transparency Beats Greenwashing
You don’t need to take a side in the natural vs. synthetic debate. But you do need to be clear:
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About what your ingredients are
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Why you’re using them
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How they function in the formula
Instead of trying to “clean up” an ingredient list, focus on educating your audience, formula minimalism and efficacy. That’s far more valuable in the long run.
