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Oils, Stability, Facial Oil Reformulation
Hi,
We have a complex facial oil product. We used to expeller-press our Milk Thistle, Hemp and Cucumber seed oils in-house fresh for every batch of oil we produced (with some light bleaching and filtering down to 1 micron).
Even though the oils were so fresh and high-quality…it’s a very labor intensive, stressful process at our small scale that I’d like to get away from not to mention expensive with testing. So I’ve been trying to find oils that are already manufactured to replace ours with.
The problem is that every single oil I’ve gotten from a dozen different reputable cosmetic suppliers have had higher peroxide values than I would want to use. I have a peroxide value tester and am able to test every oil we’ve sampled. They’ve all been about 15 meq/kg at the lowest with most around 20-25 or more.
I’m thinking I should use more stable oils like jojoba, squalane, increase our meadowfoam and caprylic/capric triglycerides but would lose all the beautiful linoleic fatty acids.
Our oil is meant to be very acne-friendly, brightening, balancing, replenishing.
Our current inci list:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract†, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract†, Bakuchiol, Urtica Dioicia (Nettle) Leaf Extract†, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract†, Bixa Orellana (Annatto) Seed Extract‡, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Bisabolol*, Meadowfoam Estolide, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract*, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilWithout pasting up our whole formula, I Need to replace these 3 oils a total of (40%):
Cucumber 20%
Milk Thistle 5%
Hemp 15%The Meadowfoam is at 14%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 30%I’d also like to replace the Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides (Viamerine 4000) as I really dislike working with Aldivia and we waste a lot because of their MOQ. This is a decent part of our formula and gave it a nice liquid balm sort of texture, moisturization properties without being too heavy or pore-clogging. I was thinking about replacing with Biosil EFA Vitamin F complex [Linoleic Acid (and) Linolenic Acid (and) Tocopherol)]to get some of the linoleic and linolenic fatty acids back in and a little jojoba ester to give it the heft?
Any help or input would be much appreciated, keeping in mind our goal is to have a decent shelf-stable oil that is acne-friendly. Thanks so much!
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1 Reply
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Natural oils are not only good for us but for our skin micriobiota. And when they feast with oils, they can release not so good compounds for our skin like oleic acid, which can be irritating for some people. Particularly, I wouldn’t use natural oils for sensitive skin.
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