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Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?
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Pharma said:ETcellphone said:Do you know a good place to purchase it?Mine is food grade from the local health food shop
. Cheaper versions are available in Europe from BulkPowders.com and MyProtein.com, for US customers, PulkSupplements.com would be a place to look for it. I have the impression that, more often than not, food grade is way purer than cosmetic grade & you can use your ingredients for cosmetics and food without any worries.Ok, thank you I found it on the bulksupplements site. Do you know around what percentage you can use the xylitol before it becomes too sticky? Also, if you have had any experience with Aquaxyl, would you say they are basically the same effectiveness?
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Graillotion said:I see someone mentioned Jojoba esters…have you looked at this one. I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%. (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)
Nice! Thank you for the link. It has helped maintain moisture to your skin? I am very acne prone to oils, so I am curious about esters, and if they were suitable for my kind of skin.
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ETcellphone said:Cool! Do you know where I can get it? I am in the US. All I can find isCocamidopropyl Betaine
Not the same thing… betaine has different synonyms such as trimethyl glycine or glycine betaine.Drawback of certain US based supplement suppliers is the lack in information on the bags. EU suppliers have a more precise labelling and you know (at least after you got the package) ‘for sure’ whether you got glycine (anhydride) or glycine monohydrate.@Perry From what I can tell, EU regulations for food are better than for cosmetics. -
ETcellphone said:Graillotion said:I see someone mentioned Jojoba esters…have you looked at this one. I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%. (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)Nice! Thank you for the link. It has helped maintain moisture to your skin? I am very acne prone to oils, so I am curious about esters, and if they were suitable for my kind of skin.
Yes, it has done a good job at 2% inclusion rate. Floratech will send you a sample if you ask. And if you like it…there are several repackers selling it in the US…I think I got mine at Noble Roots…since I did not want the large quantity that Floratech had as a minimum. Note: I also tried a couple batches at 1.5%…and the difference was pretty notable. So went with with 2%. I suppose as with all formulas…. it will depend a lot of what else you are working with.
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Betaine is super hard to find….amongst the repackers….I have ONLY found it ONE place:
https://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/VegeMoist_Beet_Sugar_Extract_/894Would love to have an alternative source!!!
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usually acne prone skin is oily type so they can tolerate acne treatment quit well cos most would dry their skins out.
but you are on the dry side which is make it harder to treat.ETcellphone said:
pimples, blocked pores and irritation.the problem might be your over all routine or daily life how you treat your skin, how u eat , how u sleep etc.
might start with how u clean ur skin.
cleansing oil or balm might be a good chioce or double clean system might do better. you have to try what’s work for you.Tretinoin 0.025% cream might be a good start if it drys your skin then add aloe or licorice gel.
IMHO i would recommend seeking a consult from dermatologist for some period of time and when u find what is actually your problem then u can design ur own routine for urself.
if you don’t know what cause your skin to break out it will be a bit hard to start formulate your own serum.
as for TEWL ingredient petrolatum is a gold standard, you can start on low like 0.1- 0.3 if it is still too much i say you can look into light weight baby cream like Ezerra or baby sebamed.
Happy formulating
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Sometime, food rich in fatty acid can be a culprit, life style is a major concern in acne prone skin
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Graillotion said:Betaine is super hard to find….amongst the repackers….I have ONLY found it ONE place:
https://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/VegeMoist_Beet_Sugar_Extract_/894Would love to have an alternative source!!!
Thanks a lot for the link. It’s the closest I have come to being able to have access to it. Can I ask why you would prefer to have another source? Is their shipping super expensive?
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Pharma said:ETcellphone said:Cool! Do you know where I can get it? I am in the US. All I can find is
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Not the same thing… betaine has different synonyms such as trimethyl glycine or glycine betaine.Drawback of certain US based supplement suppliers is the lack in information on the bags. EU suppliers have a more precise labelling and you know (at least after you got the package) ‘for sure’ whether you got glycine (anhydride) or glycine monohydrate.@Perry From what I can tell, EU regulations for food are better than for cosmetics.thank you for the information. Yes I am getting that impression too.
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Pattsi said:usually acne prone skin is oily type so they can tolerate acne treatment quit well cos most would dry their skins out.
but you are on the dry side which is make it harder to treat.ETcellphone said:
pimples, blocked pores and irritation.the problem might be your over all routine or daily life how you treat your skin, how u eat , how u sleep etc.
might start with how u clean ur skin.
cleansing oil or balm might be a good chioce or double clean system might do better. you have to try what’s work for you.Tretinoin 0.025% cream might be a good start if it drys your skin then add aloe or licorice gel.
IMHO i would recommend seeking a consult from dermatologist for some period of time and when u find what is actually your problem then u can design ur own routine for urself.
if you don’t know what cause your skin to break out it will be a bit hard to start formulate your own serum.
as for TEWL ingredient petrolatum is a gold standard, you can start on low like 0.1- 0.3 if it is still too much i say you can look into light weight baby cream like Ezerra or baby sebamed.
Happy formulating
I tried cleansing balms in the past but they are too heavy for my skin. I need something that foams up and is oil free. I think the cleanser I am using currently is very gentle and its just the nature of my skin to get easily dried out once it is cleansed.
I wish I could use tretinoin! However I cannot find a sunscreen that works for me (doesn’t give me acne).
Hmm adding in a small percentage of petroleum… I never thought of it, but MAYBE it would be ok at a super small amount.
Thanks for the tips
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ETcellphone said:Pattsi said:usually acne prone skin is oily type so they can tolerate acne treatment quit well cos most would dry their skins out.
but you are on the dry side which is make it harder to treat.ETcellphone said:
pimples, blocked pores and irritation.the problem might be your over all routine or daily life how you treat your skin, how u eat , how u sleep etc.
might start with how u clean ur skin.
cleansing oil or balm might be a good chioce or double clean system might do better. you have to try what’s work for you.Tretinoin 0.025% cream might be a good start if it drys your skin then add aloe or licorice gel.
IMHO i would recommend seeking a consult from dermatologist for some period of time and when u find what is actually your problem then u can design ur own routine for urself.
if you don’t know what cause your skin to break out it will be a bit hard to start formulate your own serum.
as for TEWL ingredient petrolatum is a gold standard, you can start on low like 0.1- 0.3 if it is still too much i say you can look into light weight baby cream like Ezerra or baby sebamed.
Happy formulating
I tried cleansing balms in the past but they are too heavy for my skin. I need something that foams up and is oil free. I think the cleanser I am using currently is very gentle and its just the nature of my skin to get easily dried out once it is cleansed.
I wish I could use tretinoin! However I cannot find a sunscreen that works for me (doesn’t give me acne).
Hmm adding in a small percentage of petroleum… I never thought of it, but MAYBE it would be ok at a super small amount.
Thanks for the tips
Here is an interesting ingredient that has caught my eye…and I will play with in my next facial cream formulation:
https://lotioncrafter.com/products/biolatum?_pos=3&_sid=354257d77&_ss=r
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I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though.
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ETcellphone said:Graillotion said:Betaine is super hard to find….amongst the repackers….I have ONLY found it ONE place:
https://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/VegeMoist_Beet_Sugar_Extract_/894Would love to have an alternative source!!!
Thanks a lot for the link. It’s the closest I have come to being able to have access to it. Can I ask why you would prefer to have another source? Is their shipping super expensive?
Well…maybe not their shipping…just their mark-up… A lot of redundant products they sell that others also sell…are much more expensive. Considering what Betaine is…it should not be that costly of an item! And….. shipping is pretty darn slow…I have usually forgotten I even have an order in with them….when it finally shows up.
I think they are very aware they have a monopoly on small pack cosmetic Betaine. -
jemolian said:I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though.
Interesting…now of course….the first thing I will do when the package arrives….is take a deep whiff. Ingredient listing did not look too stinky?
Luckily…I have another product I already use (K-20W) that does a pretty similar job (with no odor)….but I am always seeking the next great synergy.
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jemolian said:I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though.
Got mine from LotionCrafters….absolutely no negative smell…and essentially…No smell. Neat it is very nice, will formulate with it later today.
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That’s great, i’ll maybe order from Lotioncrafter next time to test it out again. The K-20W i bought from Nobleroots just arrived so i’m also eager to test it out over the weekend. Took some time since i’m not in the US.
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jemolian said:That’s great, i’ll maybe order from Lotioncrafter next time to test it out again. The K-20W i bought from Nobleroots just arrived so i’m also eager to test it out over the weekend. Took some time since i’m not in the US.
I felt like my product really took a turn for the better….when I introduced KW20 **to it. I use 2% (dissolved in the same amount of glycerin) for TEWL, and .5% in another product for fragrance fixation.
BTW… LC said they make the BioLatum in house…so it will not be the same as the one from FSS.
** If you have not used KW20 before… you need to dissolve it in equal amounts of glycerin before adding to your water phase.
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I’ll try it at 2% with Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl and Glycerin and see how it will change the moisturization performance or skin feel.
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jemolian said:I’ll try it at 2% with Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl and Glycerin and see how it will change the moisturization performance or skin feel.
Have you worked with Aquaxyl much?
It keeps catching my eye.If so…where did you get if from…and what are your thoughts about it?
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I got mine from China as per most of my common ingredients but you should be able to purchase it from the Germany side.
I’m mainly using it since i can’t really use Niacianmide since i’m allergic to it, they have some similar benefits but so far i think performance wise it would be complimentary to Glycerin but wouldn’t really out perform Glycerin in terms of giving a substantiating or lasting skin feel.
My base formula is mainly Isononyl Isononanoate, Aquaxyl, Glycerin, Betaine, Trehalose, Sepinov EMT 10, Septonic M3. It does it’s job relatively well in keeping the skin relatively hydrated and lightly moisturized, but i doesn’t hurt to add a more moisturizing ingredient. I’m try to get a flexible formula that is not tacky under higher humidity (around 70%) but still sufficient for lower humidity (45%).
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Graillotion said:jemolian said:I can’t remember which shop i bought it from, i think FSS, but the smell made me gag a little. Not using it ever again. You can try it and see if you are fine with it though.
Got mine from LotionCrafters….absolutely no negative smell…and essentially…No smell. Neat it is very nice, will formulate with it later today.
Tried the BioLatum today….in a rather dry lotion…and at 1%, it took it to something I did not care for, shiny, and residual oiliness. My skin does not soak up oil like a sponge.
I have been between the horns of a dilemma, I have a premium lotion that is dialed in….and I am updating my basic (lower cost ) lotion, and the only way I know how to fix it….is make it just like the premium one….hehehe.. So I guess I will just up the KW20 to get my TEWL back to where it needs to be…same as the premium product. -
Tried the BioLatum today….in a rather dry lotion…and at 1%, it took it to something I did not care for, shiny, and residual oiliness. My skin does not soak up oil like a sponge.
Yes, i guess that would be one of the pitfalls of using petrolatum like ingredients. I’m wondering if using a mattifying emulsifier like Montanov 202 would reduce the shine. So far testing with 7.5% White Petrolatum is fine but slightly too shiny. Not sure if using starches would reduce their TEWL reduction effects.
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Hello,
Maybe you can use Squalane. -
I’m still observing the performance of the K-20W over a few days.
I added too much by accident, so it was 3.5%, for initial observation, it seems that is increases glide and also detacks the humectants significantly. Previously my pillow case would stick to my face slightly but with the K-20W, it seems totally fine. I probably can readjust the other ingredients accordingly to increase humectancy.
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