Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

  • Non comedogenic ingredients for TEWL?

    Posted by etcellphone on August 6, 2020 at 4:33 am

    Hello guys, 

    I am looking for an ingredient(s) that I can use in a hydrating oil free facial serum that is very beneficial in TEWL prevention and moisturization. However, it must be safe for acneic skin. I know each persons skin is different, but I figure there’s a few safe bets out there will a good change it would be ok to use. 
    My skin type is very acne prone, however it is also sensitive and usually dehydrated and tight feeling. With this skin type, the common ingredients that would help for moisture, like oils, fatty acids, waxes, silicones and mineral oils end up causing me grief in the shape of pimples, blocked pores and irritation. 
    This is why finding a moisturizing ingredient for me is a huge challenge and I realIze a tall order. 
     I have recently formulated my own facial serum, which has done a fairy good job so far. However, I really am keen to find an ingredient that will work well for barrier repair and TEWL minimization. 
    My formula: 

    propylene glycol- 3%

    Optiphen - .5%
    Distilled water - 65.8%
    Sodium carbomer- .2%
    Urea- 7%
    Honeyquat - 5%
    hydrolyzed oats- 5%
    Licorice root extract- 5%
    Niacinimide- 3%
    Allantoin- .5%
    Natrasmooth (lotioncrafter. Made of: Water, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Betain, Glycerin) - 5%
    ———
    any suggestions or critiques I would be very open to hear. I am new to formulations so I am sure I am missing a few critical ingredients or proportions are not exactly right … 
    pattsi replied 3 years, 5 months ago 16 Members · 53 Replies
  • 53 Replies
  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 6, 2020 at 4:37 am

    I’d also like to mention that I am new to this community and must say that I am very humbled and in awe of the people here, let alone able to interact with you. Your skill set, your knowledge and your artistry in making cosmetics is astounding. I really mean it :) 

  • zetein

    Member
    August 6, 2020 at 5:29 am

    Xylitol is quite good. It’s a sufficient humectant and easy to buy, though could be tacky at high level same as glycerin…

    Evaluation of xylitol as an agent that controls the growth of skin microbes: Staphylococcus aureusStaphylococcus epidermidis, and Cutibacterium acnes

    http://www.kjom.org/journal/view.html?uid=185&pn=lastest&vmd=Full#:~:text=Xylitol%20is%20a%20natural%20sugar%20alcohol%20that%20is,the%20presence%20or%20absence%20of%201%25%20%28w%2Fv%29%20and

  • zacchaeus

    Member
    August 6, 2020 at 8:45 am
  • Dr_Sara

    Member
    August 6, 2020 at 9:22 am

    back to basics… maybe lanolin

  • czkld

    Member
    August 7, 2020 at 6:18 pm

    Maybe not the most elegant, but petrolatum is non-comedogenic, and its the gold standard for TEWL reduction. Although with some work you can probably make it feel nice ^^

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    August 7, 2020 at 7:35 pm

    I love the suggestions by @Dr_Sara and @czkld Old School ingredients, you cannot go wrong. @ETcellphone understand that most really comedogenic ingredients are triglyceride oils and their derivatives, such sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, decyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate. Avoid these and you should be good to go. 

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 7:56 pm

    zetein said:

    Xylitol is quite good. It’s a sufficient humectant and easy to buy, though could be tacky at high level same as glycerin…

    Evaluation of xylitol as an agent that controls the growth of skin microbes: Staphylococcus aureusStaphylococcus epidermidis, and Cutibacterium acnes

    http://www.kjom.org/journal/view.html?uid=185&pn=lastest&vmd=Full#:~:text=Xylitol%20is%20a%20natural%20sugar%20alcohol%20that%20is,the%20presence%20or%20absence%20of%201%25%20%28w%2Fv%29%20and

    Thank you for your reply. Do you know a good place to purchase it? I had been having a discussion with another member on finding Aquaxyl, which contains xylitol as 1 of its 3 components, and expressed it was very difficult for me to get. I am in the United States

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 8:00 pm

    zacchaeus said:

    Thanks. I am learning more and more about betaine, I didn’t realize it was so popular. Do you find betaine to provide superior moisture over, say, glycerin? I’m thinking about if I had to make a serum with only 3 humectants and water, do you think betaine would be good enough to be chosen for 1 of those 3?

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 8:00 pm

    Dr_Sara said:

    back to basics… maybe lanolin

    unfortunately lanolin breaks me out :(

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 8:02 pm

    czkld said:

    Maybe not the most elegant, but petrolatum is non-comedogenic, and its the gold standard for TEWL reduction. Although with some work you can probably make it feel nice ^^

    You don’t know how much I WISH I could use petrolatum on my face. Yes it is considered non comedogenic, and cannot go into the pores, however with my skin, it does cause acne. Which I don’t understand. I wonder if there is a difference in using it applied to the skin from the jar vs. mineral oil in a small percent added to a serum? 

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 8:04 pm

    I love the suggestions by @Dr_Sara and @czkld Old School ingredients, you cannot go wrong. @ETcellphone understand that most really comedogenic ingredients are triglyceride oils and their derivatives, such sweet almond oil, grapeseed oil, decyl oleate, isopropyl palmitate. Avoid these and you should be good to go. 

    Thank you for your reply and suggestions. I can’t use lanolin on my face because it does cause acne for me, as well as the petrolatum, unfortunately. If my skin could tolerate it, I would absolutely be using a cream that has those 2 ingredients, because they are amazing at retaining moisture. For me, though, I end up with irritation and acne. 

  • Dr_Sara

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 8:58 pm

    That is too bad.🙁 Everyone reacts differently to ingredients. My daughter does very well with a cream containing lanolin and mineral oil.

    Have you tried a moisture cream with honey and propolis? Honey (mel) is emollient, and healing. Propolis (propolis cera) decreases sebum production. 🐝

    Apparently Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) is the plant oil that is most similar to human sebum. Can you tolerate jojoba? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 10, 2020 at 11:22 pm

    Urea will break that sodium carbomer. You need to find another gel maker. I think xanthan is the only thing that might work here (still not sure with 6%).
    I also think you have too much of everything in that formula. I would get rid of proteins and quats. 

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 4:02 am

    Dr_Sara said:

    That is too bad.🙁 Everyone reacts differently to ingredients. My daughter does very well with a cream containing lanolin and mineral oil.

    Have you tried a moisture cream with honey and propolis? Honey (mel) is emollient, and healing. Propolis (propolis cera) decreases sebum production. 🐝

    Apparently Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis seed oil) is the plant oil that is most similar to human sebum. Can you tolerate jojoba? 

    I’m jealous of your daughter! So lucky. Kinda makes you nostalgic for the 1940s when they used all of those cold creams and heavier products.

    I have tried honey on my face, it seemed to cause slight irritation but not necessarily acne. Maybe if I try it at a smaller percent? This was years ago. I have tried royal jelly a few years back as well with similar experience. I’m telling you my skin is a total diva lol. 

    You’re right about the jojoba oil, I have heard the same thing. The oil broke me out, but I have recently been reminded of jojoba esters… I wonder if that would be any different? 

  • etcellphone

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 4:05 am

    Urea will break that sodium carbomer. You need to find another gel maker. I think xanthan is the only thing that might work here (still not sure with 6%).
    I also think you have too much of everything in that formula. I would get rid of proteins and quats. 

    Yes I was informed by another member about the sodium carbomer too. How do you know when the product breaks? my serum seems to still be a homogenous mixture… although It is in an amber glass, I can’t be entirely certain. 

    I have food grade xantham gum, do you think that will work? 

  • pharma

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 8:02 am

    Do you know a good place to purchase it?

    Mine is food grade from the local health food shop ;) . Cheaper versions are available in Europe from BulkPowders.com and MyProtein.com, for US customers, PulkSupplements.com would be a place to look for it. I have the impression that, more often than not, food grade is way purer than cosmetic grade & you can use your ingredients for cosmetics and food without any worries.

  • zacchaeus

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 8:53 am

    zacchaeus said:

    Thanks. I am learning more and more about betaine, I didn’t realize it was so popular. Do you find betaine to provide superior moisture over, say, glycerin? I’m thinking about if I had to make a serum with only 3 humectants and water, do you think betaine would be good enough to be chosen for 1 of those 3?

    Hi. Yes, it is better than glycerin. Plus, it isn’t tacky on the skin. You can use it at its maximum dosage 5%. 

  • oldperry

    Member
    August 11, 2020 at 2:10 pm

    @zacchaeus - Betaine provides superior moisture over glycerin? What has convinced you of this? Do you have a link to some study?

    In the industry, glycerin is the benchmark humectant that all others are compared to. In terms of effectiveness, I’ve not seen a more economical & efficient choice.

  • zacchaeus

    Member
    August 13, 2020 at 3:19 am

    @Perry my apologies for wrong info. Glycerin can be partially or totally replaced by Betaine as it has the same moisturizing effect, based on the study made by DuPont. Pros of betaine is it isn’t tacky/sticky.

  • oldperry

    Member
    August 13, 2020 at 12:41 pm

    @zacchaeus - no apology required. I was curious what convinced you. I have a certain belief about ingredients and when someone suggests something different I always like to find out how they came to these conclusions. I’m willing to update my beliefs if there is scientific evidence to do so.

    I’ve not seen the study by DuPont to which you are referring. 

  • graillotion

    Member
    August 14, 2020 at 2:24 am

    I see someone mentioned Jojoba esters…have you looked at this one.  I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

    https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

  • ggpetrov

    Member
    August 14, 2020 at 6:07 am

    I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

    https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

    And how did you determine this?

  • graillotion

    Member
    August 15, 2020 at 4:07 am

    ggpetrov said:

    I was able to FINALLY achieve the TEWL level I wanted…without using Petro products with K-20W at 2%.  (blend with equal amounts glycerin.)

    https://www.floratech.com/Product/FK02

    And how did you determine this?

    Nothing scientific… I am just very sensitive and aware with what is happening to my skin.  I especially like to apply before bed…and evaluate my skin the following morning.  

    When I change a single ingredient….even an adjustment up or down (.5%)…I can feel it like night and day.  I don’t think most people have that type of sensitivity.

  • pharma

    Member
    August 15, 2020 at 6:38 pm

    I don’t know what makes its performance but my wife and I did try that lotion by @Graillotion and yes, it definitely is hydrating and caring (and I have to admit, my wife likes it even more than my own latest creation).

  • graillotion

    Member
    August 15, 2020 at 11:44 pm

    Pharma said:

    I don’t know what makes its performance but my wife and I did try that lotion by @Graillotion and yes, it definitely is hydrating and caring (and I have to admit, my wife likes it even more than my own latest creation).

    Thank You Pharma.

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