Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Air Bubbles in Serum formula, I need some help please.

  • Air Bubbles in Serum formula, I need some help please.

    Posted by Landmark on November 29, 2014 at 4:00 pm

    Hi! Everyone,

                           I’m experimenting a new serum formula but final results are ugly, a lot of air bubbles and final pH 4.0. I wondering if Carbopol 940 responsible or there is any issue in he phase mixing procedure. I will appreciate your feedback. Thanks, Javier































    Water 87.8 %
    Hyaluronic Acid 1 %
    Gogi PGB  1 %
    Phytexcell Oay 1 %
    Decorinyl 5 %
    Aleo Vera Concentrate 40x 0.5 %
    Glycerin 2 %
    Germaben II 0.5%
    DL-Panthenol  0.5%
    Carbopol 940  

    0.7 %

    Would be Xanthan Gum a better agent for thickening?

    Landmark replied 9 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    November 29, 2014 at 4:49 pm

    1. Where is the neutraliser for the carbomer? I don’t see it in your list.

    2. Stirring has to be done slowly or you will get bubbles. I usually neutralise as the last step and get all the air out before that.
  • Landmark

    Member
    November 29, 2014 at 4:59 pm

    Sorry. Yes Triethanolamine.
    Thank you!! Javier

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 29, 2014 at 6:35 pm

    Javier:

    (1)  Are you using SLMW Hyaluronic Acid or “Regular” Hyaluronic Acid?  If you are using Regular Hyaluronic Acid at 1%, you will get some thickening of your formulation from the HA alone, so you’re halfway there (assuming you’re trying to end up with a viscous liquid that can be dispensed from a bottle dropper)
    (2)  You can eliminate this problem altogether by using thickeners/gelling agents other than Carbomer 940 that won’t require neturalization, so you can eliminate the Carbomer/TEA from your formulation.
    (3)  Your options are:  Xanthan Gum (as you mentioned), Hydroxyethylcellulose (or any other cellulose derivative), Sclerotium Gum, Konjac Root Powder, or a combination of Xanthan/HEC, HEC/Konjac, Xanthan/Sclerotium.  Xanthan and Konjac when mixed immediately gels, so you would end up with a gel instead of a serum.  Lucas Meyer has a nice combo ECOGEL, that combines Sclerotium, Xanthan, Pullulan and Lysolecithin that I am just playing around with, but it has interesting properties.
    The ingredients in (3) are going to be much more forgiving to mechanical agitation (stirring or shear) than Carbomer/TEA regarding entrained bubbles.  
    Which leads to the question … What device are you using for mixing … an overhead mixer? spatula? or other stirrer?  Whatever you’re using is introducing bubbles into the system if you are mixing at too high of a speed.
     
  • Landmark

    Member
    November 29, 2014 at 8:41 pm

    Hi! Mark,
    Thank yku for your help. Im using regular HA, but I was looking for additional viscosity. I will try with Xanthan and see the results. I appreciated your help.
    thank you! Javier

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