Cosmetic Preservation - What’s In a Name?
What’s in a name, the preservation name? Whether it’s Montague or Capulet….love or scorn…parabens or not?
Brands, marketers and formulators find themselves in a quandary of hearsay to balance consumer demands and functionality. The ideals of traditional formulations past have suffered a lot of R&D heartache to produce romantic paraben and phenoxyethanol-free emulsions. Let me lay the scene in fair “clean” formulations to reduce your frustrations by providing some cosmetic preservative history, implications for emulsions and time saving solution.
Parabens’ epilogue many years ago led to the US Market introduction of multi-functional ingredient Glyceryl Caprylate for natural preservative solutions. This coconut and/or sustainable palm oil-derived ingredient historically functioned as an emollient and wetting agent. However, its surface tension reducing behavior made it a prime preservation candidate to destabilize some microorganism membranes that help lead to its eventual demise. Presently, developers immediately associate this ingredient with preservation and forget or never knew about its historical use and past.
Have you every dropped in this ingredient for a quick reformulation and found your luxurious, creamy emulsion turn to a pourable lotion? If so, you have experienced its surface tension reducing behavior on your emulsion system. Developers quickly learn the current preservative demands can add a significant amount of R&D time, as well as cost. Emulsions now require careful building for a preservative love story and happy ending.
So what’s the antidote and how can we escape the feuding? A blended potion by [Friar] Dr. Straetmans’ of Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate (symbio®muls GC) exists where the Glyceryl Caprylate serves as a co-emulsifier, adding stability to an emulsion as well as providing anti-microbial benefits.
Can this be true – stability and preservation properties all in one? The results are proven and challenge tested. One should know, that directions should be followed carefully and supporting ingredients such as Organic Acids will cover the broad spectrum of your microorganism foes. But hope can be found in the symbio®muls GC.
As the markets’ mercurial attitude has long moved away from parabens and now phenoxyethanol (gasp!), rest assured, with the right ingredients and support, your emulsion and efforts do not have to end in tragedy.
~ Beakers Up!
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