Home › Cosmetic Science Talk › Formulating › Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion
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Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion
Posted by Graillotion on September 2, 2021 at 3:37 amI am considering including Cholecalciferol in a lotion/cream project. What is the typical inclusion rate?
Considering that the cosmetic industry…is always in the search of ‘claim’ ingredients, even if they know they don’t work…. Why is Cholecalciferol typically overlooked? What are the negatives of formulating with it?
Abdullah replied 3 years, 2 months ago 9 Members · 22 Replies -
22 Replies
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If you add 0.01% Cholecalciferol to an emulsion and apply 2g of that emulsion everyday and your skin absorbed 100% of vitamin D3 from it, you get 8000 IU vitamin D from that emulsion per day. ????
Now you calculate the rest of that.
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Now I’m curious as well. We have a customer formulation that uses cholecalciferol. Surely it’s not banned in the US?
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@Perry, is it still legal to add Cholecalciferol to a cosmetic emulsion in the USA? I can still find Vitamin D creams on Amazon and such.
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I don’t know for sure but it is a drug active that requires a prescription. So, then it comes down to why are you adding the ingredient. There is no non-drug reason to add it so that would make it illegal.
That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.
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L’orealusa, Paula, CeraVe - use it.
EU - banned.
CeraVe Canada use it in their 3% SA lotion and cream - medicinal/non-medicinal LOI but also use it in cleanser with typical LOI.
So you are probably safe with 0.00000 - 0.00 % inclusion rate. -
Perry said:I don’t know for sure but it is a drug active that requires a prescription. So, then it comes down to why are you adding the ingredient. There is no non-drug reason to add it so that would make it illegal.
That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.
Where can I find this in print? To this day I can not find anything definitive, for the US market.
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@Graillotion - Perhaps I’m mistaken. It is simply a supplement so there wouldn’t be any drug restrictions.
I found it here and misread the entry.
https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a620058.html -
Abdullah said:If you add 0.01% Cholecalciferol to an emulsion and apply 2g of that emulsion everyday and your skin absorbed 100% of vitamin D3 from it, you get 8000 IU vitamin D from that emulsion per day. ????
Now you calculate the rest of that.
I assume there are different potencies? The one I have is:
Vitamin D3 Cholecalciferol 100,000 ui/gr
Is that what your calculation was based on?
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Vitamin D is a partially synthesised and highly active compound which, back in the day, was often not pure but just an ‘activated concoction’ or it was sold in diluted form for easier and more precise measuring. Hence, quality/purity is traditionally expressed in international units instead of grams (1 ug = 40 IE). Yours would be 0.25% pure cholecalciferol.
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I calculated based on this (1 IU = 0.025 mcg) if it is 100% vitamin D.
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The reason why cholecalciferol can not be a cosmetic ingredient:Vitamin A and vitamin D are the only two vitamins which are not
co-factors in enzymes and/or antioxidants but, in their active forms,
bind directly to promoters which ‘activate genes’ and produce more
effect the more you take and don’t level off at the limit given by the
physiologic concentration of corresponding enzymes.Similar to most B vitamins which require activation, vitamin A is
commonly applied as precursor (retinol or retinyl esters) which, to some
degree, can be activated by all living cells and organs. Vitamin D in
its common form cholecalciferol needs to be activated first in the liver
and then the kidneys in order to become biologically active. This means
that topically applied vitamin D will not show any topical effects like
in the case of vitamin A but has to penetrate skin, get assimilated,
pass through the whole body to become active, and finally exert its
function systemically (in the whole body). That’s the main reason why
biologically active vitamin D derivatives are used in topical products.
To my knowledge, cholecalciferol has no topical effect and those would
be the ones you need for claims. The instant you claim metabolic
activation, your product is a drug (or nutrient supplement) because it
relies on a full body circulation and lacks skin targeting. -
@Pharma - Thank you for your explanation.Pharma said:The instant you claim metabolic
activation, your product is a drug (or nutrient supplement) because it
relies on a full body circulation and lacks skin targeting.Very true, hormonal vitamin effects various tissues.
for fun reading. @GraillotionVitamin D3 is produced in the skin from 7-dehydrocholesterol by UV irradiation.vitamin D def, you can guess what will be the first prescription, yes sun exposure - morning sun 7-8 am or evening sun 4-5 pm for 15-30 min.In US, it isn’t banned, L’oreal still use it but EU version they removed it, I’m guessing they use it at super low.Perry said:That you find creams on Amazon is not surprising. It is difficult for the FDA to keep up on all these different products.Very true. Some weird stuffs sell better than actual OTC.
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lol lots of Thai stuffs and some Chinese.I’m familiar with these stuffs tho, they managed to sneak into US.Since hydroquinone is hard to get so they go for easier choice Mercury and steroid.Skin bleaching is everywhere, you can’t escape. Even Voldemort uses it, i guess.
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the European ban is to restrict its usage to medicines only - same story with benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin and hydroquinone
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