Review of InCosmetics Asia 2024
In November, I had the privilege of attending and speaking at In-cosmetics Asia 2024 in Bangkok. Held at BITEC from November 5-7, this year’s show apparently saw record-breaking participation, with nearly 20,000 visits recorded, including a remarkable 13,000+ unique attendees which they say is a significant 11% increase from 2023. And there was so much scanning of people’s badges, I believe those numbers!
Reportedly, the event drew international attention, with 43% of visitors traveling from outside Thailand! An increase compared to last year which suggest there is a growing importance of Asia as a hub for personal care innovation and collaboration. I’ve got to admit, for a person from the US, that was a long 20+ hour flight to get there.
Creativity and Innovation
The show floor was buzzing with activity, featuring more than 600 exhibitors from 36 countries. Global leaders like Ashland, BASF, Clariant, and Croda showcased alongside smaller suppliers. The diversity of participants highlighted the continued interest and growth in the industry.
One of the more interesting features was the Innovation Zone, where companies debuted cutting-edge ingredients developed within the past eight months. There were over 100 new launches, with Givaudan earning Gold for Neuroglow™, an ingredient mimicking the positive effects of sunlight, and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics taking Gold for Pickmulse™, a quinoa starch-based emulsifier. These innovations exemplify the blend of creativity and advancements shaping the future of cosmetics. But in truth, I was a bit underwhelmed by what passes for “innovation” in our industry. I know it’s hard to come up with truly new raw materials due to testing restrictions and the fact that it is just really hard to find anything new. However, the things that get touted as amazing innovation, emulsifiers, esters, and extracts?? Suffice it to say, from my perspective there wasn’t much exciting innovation at least in terms of formulating. There was nothing here that consumers would notice beyond marketing stories.
Educational Highlights
The educational sessions were another major draw, with experts from leading brands like L’Oréal, Shiseido, Estée Lauder, and P&G sharing insights into emerging trends. I had the honor of presenting a keynote on the potential of AI tools for cosmetic chemists, highlighting how technology is transforming the way we approach formulation and product development. I also spoke on the future of hair care products and the role and development of cosmetic claims. All the sessions were well attended and I got some good questions afterwards.
Hands-on demonstrations in the Formulation Lab provided practical insights into creating new formulas. From lightweight sunscreen systems by Clariant to serum sunscreens by Nikko Chemicals, the sessions offered some useful knowledge for formulators who hadn’t necessarily worked on those types of formulas.
Asian Suppliers Take Center Stage
One aspect of the show was the increasing prominence of Asian suppliers. Countries like Japan, China, and Thailand showcased their advancements, from multifunctional moisturizers to sustainable ingredient solutions. For instance, TriBeaute from Japan introduced AzePore™, an ingredient with anti-ageing and anti-acne benefits, while Thailand’s Speciality Natural Products showcased a locally sourced natural extract. Admittedly, none of these new technologies wowed me much. They all seemed very similar to the same stuff you see in the US at Supplier’s Day. Of course the specific stories are different but from a skeptical scientist perspective, it all seemed pretty much the same.
Community of Collaboration
Beyond the exhibitions and presentations, what struck me most was the sense of collaboration and connection among attendees. Whether it was networking over coffee or engaging in lively discussions at the booths, the event fostered an atmosphere of shared purpose and excitement about the future of our industry. Honestly, I’m a bit surprised at how well these types of trade shows have come back after being shut down during COVID.
As I reflect on my experience, it’s clear that in-cosmetics Asia 2024 is a vibrant and growing show. There is certainly a lot of work and effort going on in the industry and I look forward to the day when the innovations are truly something more than just new marketing stories. But innovation is hard and true new discoveries don’t happen very often. But shows like these require companies to offer something new so most of what we’ll get are marketing innovations. However, if there is a truly new innovative new ingredient, this will likely be the place you hear about it first.
