in-Cosmetics 2017 recap


The second day of in-cosmetics Global closed in style, with awards presented to suppliers excelling in innovation, green and sensory product development. New to this year, the personal care industry also found out who had scooped the Make-up Bar Award and won the first Johnson & Johnson Innovation Flash Cosmetics Pitch.

In total, around 100 entries were received from suppliers based across the globe, with businesses hoping their exciting developments would be the talk of the event. An audience of more than 400 professionals gathered at the ceremony, where Caroline Neville, the President of CEW UK, presented this year’s awards.

“I have really enjoyed my visit to in-cosmetics Global and am glad that the show is back in London after a 15-year break. Innovation from raw materials is the basis of creativity in the market place for finished products. Without the technical, savoire-faire many of the products that delight consumers today would not exist,” commented Caroline.

Best ingredients revealed

Fending off a stellar list of suppliers, who have launched new products in the last six months, Laboratoires Expanscience and Ashland took home the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Gold Awards in the active and functional ingredient categories respectively.

Chosen by an esteemed judging panel, including representatives of Neal’s Yard Remedies, GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare and L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Laboratoires Expanscience impressed the judges with PASSIOLINE®, while Ashland was commended for its FiberHance BM Solution innovation.

Belinda Carli, Director at The Institute of Personal Care Science and the head judge of the awards, said: “The quality of entries this year has been fantastic and it has been very difficult to choose a winner. The breadth of entries demonstrated just how creative the industry we work in has become. The in-cosmetics Global event is a perfect platform to highlight the ingredients that will help inspire a new generation of cosmetics and this competition showed just how exciting the future is.”

PASSIOLINE® is a concentrate, rich in unsaponifiables derived from the co-valorization of the Peruvian fruit juice industry. When making maracuja fruit juice, the seeds are left out while the pulp is used to obtain juice. Laboratoires Expanscience dries and presses the seeds to obtain virgin oil of maracuja. It has shown remarkable efficacy in tissue repair, cell regeneration, anti-inflammatory properties that help it smooth any kind of skin imperfections.

FiberHance™ BM Solution is a new, innovative patented ingredient that strengthens and repairs internal hair fibers by creating additional bonds within the hair structure. It is a small, low molecular weight molecule based on a unique natural glucoside chemistry that allows penetration deep into the hair fibre up to the cortex. Hydrogen and ionic bonding of the keratin structure restores hair fibre strength back to levels of virgin hair. It is supplied as a 50% active solution.

Gattefossé (GATULINE® LINK N LIFT) and Lipotec (REPROAGE™ peptide) won the Silver and Bronze awards for their active ingredients. Meanwhile, in the functional category, Hallstar (Micah) and Inter Actifs – Aceto Corporation (Helicoidal Emulsion Technology) both received Silver awards, while Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (Siligel™) took the Bronze prize.


Sensory achievements

Meanwhile, the exhibitors who had showcased their ingredients and materials in the in-cosmetics Global Sensory Bar were eager to hear who had won this year’s Sensory Award.

Introduced to celebrate the most innovative developments in sensory and texture, in-cosmetics Global presented Gold, Silver and Bronze awards, with Biesterfeld scooping the top prize for Body & Seoul – an innovative formulation kit containing seven products, such as a cleansing oil and overnight lip mask, that have been influenced by Asian trends.

Chemyunion took the Silver prize with its Emulfeel, while Evonik won Bronze.


Making a difference to the environment

In the increasingly popular Green Ingredient category, which is run in partnership with Ecovia Intelligente, Naturex scooped the Gold award for its unique Eliorelys ingredient during the ceremony.

The awards saw six products shortlisted by a panel of industry experts – including L’Oreal, Acheson & Acheson, Ecovia Intelligence and APIVITA – with Biolie presented with the Bronze prize for Greentense, while Silver went to Kahai SAS for its new Cacay Oil product.

Naturex’s Eliorelys is a new active derived from cherry blossoms using a green technology process. It is produced from cherry blossoms, which are processed locally using a biomimetic extraction solvent process.


Make-up gets its time to shine

In a first for in-cosmetics Global, the new Make-up Bar – that attracted great interest during the show – also launched an award for the most innovative developments in colour cosmetics and make-up. Judged by a panel of colour cosmetics experts, Ronald Britton was enthralled to be named the inaugural winner for its cosmetic Bio-glitter®.

Most commercially available glitters are based on PET film and have minimal biodegradability. Bio-glitter® is based on a biodegradable film that is certified compostable. The biodegradable element is derived from sustainable sources, does not contain genetically modified materials or materials obtained from genetically modified organisms. It also offers the same precision cut and highly reflective properties as a conventional PET glitter.

Lubrizol’s Avalure™ Flex-6 Polymer was presented with the Bronze award, while Nikkol Group Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd took home the Silver prize for its IRO-ODORI jelly eye shadow.


Johnson & Johnson Innovation’s Flash Cosmetics Pitch

Earlier in the day, 11 international start-ups had taken part in the very first Johnson & Johnson Innovation Flash Cosmetics Pitch. Taking place on the show floor, representatives from shortlisted businesses pitched innovations in six categories – anti-ageing, devices, digital beauty, microbiome, naturals and personalization – to the company’s panel of R&D and marketing experts.

With in-cosmetics Global’s visitors able to watch the pitches live, there was great anticipation about who would win the pitch, taking home a €5,000 award and gaining access to Johnson & Johnson Innovation’s leading R&D team.

After much deliberation, Nuritas, a digital biotech company from Ireland, was announced as the winner, impressing the judges with its discovery of peptides from natural plant sources using artificial intelligence and DNA analysis.

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