[vitalys]

Taracauc, yes, that’s a cosmetic chemist’s work.

[vitalys]

Sunstone, manganese? That’s still unclear whats going on, since this reaction is visible both in their tank and in the laboratory glass beaker. There is only difference - they get the pieces of the pink soap in the tank and just a pink color in the beaker. When I’m doing that in my laboratory the soap is completely clear with no pink tinge. I suppose the reaction occur due TEA or some impurities in the ingredients they use in the presence of chelating agents in the system.

[vitalys]

Belassi, However, FDA is on the right track in this, since any product that has been claimed as “anti acne” is a drug, medicine. The FDA does its job protecting people from wrong products that have no approvements as anti acne treatment. We have also should remember from the medical point of view, that very often what people call “acne” is not real acne, but just a symptom of multiple other diseases, sometimes very dangerous ones like AIDS. People without medical or special education quite often misused terms plus tend to be victims of fear mongering. This is the area where FDA’s restrictions are very important and protective even when someone doesn’t have the full understanding.

[vitalys]

chemicalmatt, you’re reading my mind I wanted to add this input with banking system! More restrictions always bring more violations and barely solve the safety issues.

[vitalys]

I think it won’t either. This industry is pretty well regulated. This system has been working for decades and probably, it is not ideal, but the one of the best among other possible systems in the world. It based on scientific and true idea that cosmetic is generally safe unless products become a drug. The strict regulation, licensing, certification etc have not improved the safety, have not made the product better, but limited the free competition, creativity and become the base for excessive bureaucracy and bribes in the countries where such systems exist.
Again, I stand against the idea of any “improvements” in this field.

[vitalys]

Yes, correct, it’s easy to make the solution. Just follow the advise you have got

[vitalys]

First of all, thank you for your thought, Bob. Unfortunately, I have not seen their tank. I have only formulated the product, but I recommended to passivate the tank to avoid the occurence of possible complexes or to order another special tank for this product. I didn’t run into such strong discoloration during the formulating process beside the yellowing, but this problem had been solved completely with introducing of Trilon M.
So, Do you think those purple conglomerates aee the result of complexes with EDTA ( tetra sodium)? Would it be the recation with some trace impurities or byproducts of TEA or SLES? Please, advise.
Again, Thank you.

[vitalys]

EliseCortes, yes, distilled monoglycerides

[vitalys]

I have found that 95%DMG work even better in such blends than regular GM and yield beautiful emulsions.

[vitalys]

I used to work with Emulium Delta. I find it an excellent emulsifying mix, extremely versatile and able to give the range of products from milk to thick cream. Very easy to work with

[vitalys]

I would try soy waxes of different grades and they are not expensive. The Palm kernel hydrogenated oil would also work great

[vitalys]

Hello David08848,
When I make all sorts of having soaps I use this calculator:
http://soapee.com/calculator
It has all basic acids and very simple at the same time.
Good luck!

[vitalys]

There are few brands offer such gels. However, they are not so popular especially among salon professionals. Some of them are acrylic based products while others are just regular polishes. UV gels have some technical advantages from the clients’ and nail-techs’ point of view.

[vitalys]

Hello Andy,
The skin condition (let’s say disease) you have got is very complex to cure it merely with topical treatments. It deserves the medical examination of the several systems. I do realize why corticosteroids are not effective and sometimes they could make the seborrheic inflammation even more severe and this depends on microorganisms inevitably disseminated on the skin, the sweat and sebaceous glands and many other factors including the type of the food you are taking everyday.
However, the topical treatment is extremely relevant and important in treatment the conditions like this. I have analyzed the formulation that seems to help you and come to the following conclusions:
- I doubt that Cetiol PGL really helps you. It’s just an emollient. Despite of its significant effect in various cosmetics, even its manufacturer notes it brings mostly subjective sensorial effect to the skin. I guess it makes the skin feel better and makes it softer, but it doesn’t treat the condition.
- Nevertheless, there is an ingredient in the formulation you have mentioned above that theoretically helps you – Citral. This ingredient is a regular part of essential oils, derived especially from citruses. At the same time it’s an active ingredient with a strong antimicrobial and anti inflammatory properties. Old fashioned Pharmacopeia has showed a wide usage of this chemical against many disorders and diseases including seborrheic conditions. I assume that Citral is the main explanation why your skin is getting better and you feel relief from the disease. I also could guess that other ingredients from your formulation help to achieve the desirable effect – Panthenol along with Squalene, which is also, would be helpful in treatment of seborrheic like disorders while all other ingredients all together is a very good cocktail of different emollients and moisturizers.
Beside the cosmetic topical treatment and corticosteroids, have you ever tried or probably being recommended to use different approaches to the cure? For instance – the use of Vit A derivatives or components of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), Benzoyl peroxide, Salicylic acid or some special washing products?

[vitalys]

Perry, your story is captivating and encouraging!
I remember my early years when I loved to spend my time dealing with plants and animals like you. Later during the school years, my favorite subjects were Biology and Chemistry and I knew from the start I would like to be a medical Doctor. Consequently, I entered the Medical University and became a Physician with a practice in a hospital at the intensive care unit. Later I became interested in Dermatology and changed my specialization with the Medicine.
Once, I had been invited to attend the Beauty show where I realized the Cosmetology is more interesting to me as it seemed more creative field than the classic clinical medicine. Trying to intertwine my clinical experience with practical and product demands of Beauty and Cosmetic Industry, I quickly found myself initially as a consultant and later as a formulator for some special product projects related to “therapeutic” cosmetics used by dermatologists and professional cosmetologists. Those products became popular and I was invited by very famous Company well known for their professional and salon cosmetics to create the entire line from the scratch. The process was creative and interesting. It required all my experience both in Medicine and in Chemistry. My first line was launched in summer of 2007. The base line of those first products were formulations created on keratolytics and keratolytic effects of several components. Since that time, the keratolytics along with NMF have become the subjects of my scientific interest. I also began collaboration as an author with professional cosmetic magazines and journals in Europe as well as I started my educational career within the Industry. The results of my scientific researches lead me to the area of professional hand and foot care where I was simply happy to keep in touch with such prominent industry figures as Doug Schoon and Dr. Frederick Slack, Vicki Peters and Charles Martins and many others.
Currently I run my own cosmetic line and I am consulting and formulating for other projects as well. I love to share my knowledge and experience with others.
Nowadays I am happy to be a part of this community and proud to be a member of professional societies and associations, exchanging ideas and sharing the experience. Again, thank you Perry for all your significant efforts in educating and your bright information projects along with your publications and lectures within the Industry.

[vitalys]

I could just assume that formulation contains three different alcohols altogether - Glycerin, Panthenol and Sorbitol ergo no additional solubilizers required to maintain the clear appearance of this product.

[vitalys]

@braveheart re: Malic Acid. If we talk the current topic 1-2% would do. However you may use up to 20% and up in some special formulations as professional chemical peels. Please, advice what does MSM mean?

re: Formic acid. As we all know there are no “bad” or “good” chemicals and only a certain amount defines everything and makes any ingredient either a poison or a remedy in Cosmetic Chemistry or Pharmacology. That’s so true about Formic acid. Yes, it’s a well known irritant, but taken in right % in formulation it works great. Again, if we discuss the formulations against the frostbite the formic acid is very helpful to gain desirable results. It depends on temperature conditions where your products is going to be used. The % of this acid would be gradually increased from 0.2% to 1.5% respectively. If your product is supposed to be used 0-5°C you need the less acid while the product is designed for extreme temperatures (-15 /-20°C) you may increase it up to 1,5%. Nevertheless, using only Formic acid is not sufficient to get the law temperature protectant. I used a “cocktail” of actives. You may use for instance cedar and castor oils along with glycols and salts with a touch of Formic acid introduced in a right cream (ointment) base.
P.S. A little bit about allergy - again, almost every chemical has more or less allergic potential, including irritants. I also guess there is a big gap between the allergy and merely the skin irritation - those conditions have different pathogenesis and clinical manifestations.

[vitalys]

eczema, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis. But please, don’t assume this is a remedy - as I have mentioned -” It helps to treat” and products which contain this amino acid show the obvious results diminishing some symptoms making the life of the patients easier.

[vitalys]

@luiscuevasii You may neutralize any % of Stearic acid and it depends on what you want to get. ust play with it. Also, please, read this http://cosmeticsandskin.com/aba/vanishing-cream.php
Nice explanation the issues you have including some basic formulations.
Re: Cold creams, please visit http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDQQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kau.edu.sa%2FFiles%2F0007586%2FSubjects%2FCosmetics.pdf&ei=m8OvVO34F8ilNpm8hPAH&usg=AFQjCNGHLawgD_mVcDPrekaTm9w_uBSuww&sig2=iT_Z067Z-vG9Pkijnqa2wg

[vitalys]

The answer would be too complicated for short explanation. If your products are marketed in the USA, FDA regulates all those rules and requirements. You may visit their website and I bet you will find a lot of basic information. http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/default.htm

[vitalys]

I guess it would be important to make a decision what kind of products you want to get exactly. There are some of them that are preventing frostbite, another ones are for the treatment of the injured or affected skin or all together in one product for both purposes. I have got some experience in such formulations earlier prepared for the northern countries. And I have found my records what I have used for different forms from heavy ointment to the spray and lotion. The best formulations I could achieve were those where I put a combination of several crio -protective actives.

The oils: I have found the best working are - cedar oil, turpentine, castor oil, shark oil and their mixture as the base.

Acids: Succinic acid and Malic acid. In certain % in formulation they maintain energy processes in cells and penetrate relatively easily. These acids works the best way if you introduce some Glucose in formulation.

Niacinamide - helps to keep on right circulation in cappilaries. Panthenol taken in 5% and up also works great either as additional crio-protector and treatment of already affected skin.

Glutamic acid and it’s salts - bring pleasant warm to the skin.

Salts: I have experienced with Aluminum salts that regularly used for antiperspirant formulations. I have discovered they are great warmers and their ability to stop the perspiration in timely manner helps in preventing frostbite by reducing the water loss.

Glycols - I have used a mixtures including Propylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Sorbitol and Xylitiol.

And finally - I really do like Formic acid in the formulations like these taken in a very small amount.

I have to add, that different formulations are designed for different temperature conditions - the customer should tell you where the product is supposed to be used 32F or 0- 8-10 F - it helps to mix the right combination of the actives.

[vitalys]

There are plenty of them and they are coming from different chemical families - glycols, oligosaccharides, sugar alcohols, PVA, DMSO, PVP, salts etc. Are you looking it for cosmetic formulation?

[vitalys]

@luiscuevasii I guess your initial formulation (69% water, 23% stearic acid,2.3% glycerin, 0.3% TEA, 3% mineral oil, 0.8% propyleneglicol and 1% cetyl alcohol) may be working if you adjust the %%% of ingredients. In formulations like this one the emulsifier is the soap which is formed in situ due neutralization of Stearic acid with TEA. It’s a classical reaction and in such formulations the partly neutralized acid works as emulsifier. In your formulation, I would add more TEA or substitute it with NaOH or KOH. You need more emulsifier (soap) in your system. But even if you succeed with this formulation, it would be barely called “moisturizing”.

You may also make the classical “cold cream”, since you’ve got everything you need for it. The formulations could vary significantly and you can google for those varieties. Here is some updated formulations where you may want to play with %%%% of Cetyl alcohol or waxes.

Water - 19.0%

Cetyl Alcohol - 12,5%

Wax (beeswax or white paraffin) - 12,0%

Mineral Oil (may be partly substituted with Olive oil or any other oil) - 56,0%

Borax - 0,5%

Melt the waxes and Mineral oils, dissolve Borax in the water and heat. Mix waxes and water solution at the same high T (70-80C). Homogenize the mixture till the gel-like consistency appears.

Good luck!

[vitalys]

@pma Thank you for the article. It comes along with my own studies with formulations I have made for atopical skin conditions. Indeed, as I could scrutinized adding 5-10% of L-Arginine to the formulation significantly helps to treat some skin conditions. However, I didn’t correlate those results with Krebs cycle at all. I still have no any evidences amino acids are able to penetrate the barrier.

[vitalys]

@Belassi it’s just a Glycol that helps other ingredients to penetrate the Stratum Corneum, nice humectant, moisturizer…