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  • First solution is not to use all capital letters when writing a topic. This looks rude on internet and decreases responsiveness of people

    Second solution is to go with pH 6. Neutralize salicylic acid with NaOH to get Sodium Salicylate. There are some studies showing it can work as great as Salicylic Acid in the long run, but with less irritation and suggested for sensitive skin (see https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00501_2.x)

    Third solution is to go with pH 3.5. Many claim that Niacinamide is not affected by acidic pH level, but personally I prefer to avoid acidic pH for Niacinamide.

    Fourth solution would be to make anhydrous formula. No water - no pH. So mix of Glycerine and propylene glycol allows to dissolve both Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide. No preservation needed too.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 10, 2023 at 7:23 am in reply to: formulation advice

    It doesn’t matter what type of glycol you use: PG, Pentylene, etc. The only difference is aesthetics. But the extract you mentioned as I found doesn’t contain Salicylic Acid, it contains Methyl Salicylate, which is not the same.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 4, 2023 at 6:07 am in reply to: Duping a Niacinamide formula, few questions

    All the extracts - out.

    Glycerin only can give tacky feeling, their mix of Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin is probably better in sensorial meaning. For example Pentylene Glycol gives interesting effect of “water that is more watery than water”. But functionality I don’t think it matters.

    Also, I feel like 20% is too much. 5% is a sweat spot referenced in every paper I saw. 20% feels like number marketing (to beat other brands with 5%, 10%, 15% percents). But if you can handle it and you like it - it is up to you.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 2, 2023 at 4:23 pm in reply to: Room Spray Recipe

    Obvious way - increase amount of the fragrance.

    Also, different fragrances last different amount of time. Try to change the fragrance.

    You could also use a fixative. Some suppliers sell premade base for perfumes, it contains fixative in right amount. You could buy it, it is easier to find and cheaper than buy fixative in bulk and dilute.

    If you want a persistent smell you might change the product type, like instead of spray use a diffuser - a jar with special sticks that evaporates fragrance from the jar at some rate and gives constant smell. Disadvantage - you can’t “turn it off”

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 31, 2023 at 2:48 am in reply to: Gellyfying oil(s) - ingredients

    <div>The closest product I can remember is Joko Blend Hydrophilic Cleansing Oil-Gel:</div>

    Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Aqua, Sucrose Palmitate, Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Parfume, CI 45100.

    They use Sucragel (Sucrose Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate) to jellify the oils and make them hydrophilic. As you can see they use a blend of glycerin and oil, most likely glycerin is 50%+. It adds warming sensation on application and reduces cost.

    Sucragel is very popular with this kind of formulas (they call it oleogel).

    Some info on how to work with it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxshtfhjf-o

    And here https://www.botanicalformulations.com/blog/how-to-work-with-sucragel-oily-gels

    And another formula here https://www.womanwithmind.com/oil-cleansing-gel-using-sucragel/

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 22, 2023 at 10:29 am in reply to: Niacinamide + Lactic Acid in 1 formulation

    I wouldn’t use both in the same formula. I know some people claim Niacinamide can be used in low pH formulations, but I still think it doesn’t worth it. Several reasons:

    - Suggested pH for Niacinamide is around 6.0. That’s because Niacinamide has nicotinic acid as impurity and lower pH will boost burning sensation and irritation from it. There are some forms sold by. for example, makingcosmetics, where they claim it has much less of impurity comparing to normal niacinamide.

    - Acids cause irritation. Niacinamide in big doses does it too. Combining both together increase irritation even more. But of course it depends on the percentage.

    - Products, which usually combine niacinamide and big percentage of acids, have niacinamide at the end of the INCI list near preservatives, meaning it is just a claim ingredient and added in 1% or lower.

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 19, 2023 at 7:43 am in reply to: Xanthan Gum and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)

    Saturated SAP solution is slightly yellow. Here is the image of Revuele 15% SAP serum (quite saturated, see image attached).

    One thing no one said is pH adjument. SAP gives quite basic pH and is stable in pH around 6.0. Consider to use citric acid to lower pH.

    Revuele formula uses HA to thicken the serum and citric acid to lower pH

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 18, 2023 at 9:49 am in reply to: Alginate peel-off masks - Do they really work? In what level?

    How I imagine this works:

    Alginate mask is very thick rubish-like (when hardens) coverage. It basically creates a compress which prevents water to evaporate. So if you apply some watery products underneath, the mask will create heavy occlusion and potentially allow the serum to go deeper (because water stays in and the skin kinda swells with the product).

    Also, it is somewhat heavy, so it’s weight kinda pulls and stretches the skin down and makes it more smooth temporary.

    This is not basked with any science, just my perception of it. And of course no actives from the mask itself goes into the skin, they are locked inside the mask itself, right? So it’s pure marketing.

    I guess the same effect can be achieved if put some hydro-gel mask and cover it with plastic wrapper (occlusion part) and some heavy towel or cloth on top (stretching part)

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 13, 2023 at 12:17 pm in reply to: Duping a Niacinamide formula, few questions

    All. Extract are very diluted substances. If you want specific benefit use dedicated ingredient.

    Read more here: https://desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com/plant-extracts-plant-extract-isolates-the-1-percent-rule/

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 13, 2023 at 12:16 pm in reply to: Duping a Niacinamide formula, few questions

    Please don’t hijack other’s question to get answer for yours. Create a new thread ????

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 13, 2023 at 12:15 pm in reply to: Niacinamide and Low Ph - is the science settled?

    Why? You will wash it away too fast for it to do something.

    Anyway, if you check CeraVe Blemish control cleanser - they use Niacinamide and SA in one cleanser (but pH is very high)

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 9, 2023 at 2:49 am in reply to: Hair Removal Cream

    Is it a real answer or generated by AI? ????

    Usually you would ask to provide the formula in order to answer what goes wrong.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 8, 2023 at 2:45 pm in reply to: Room Spray Recipe

    I am sorry, I am not an expert in the field. I only know that my supplier sells perfume alcohol which contains around 0.01 - 0.5% of diethyl phthalate as a fixative.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 8, 2023 at 4:23 am in reply to: Understanding Emulsifiers

    Hmm… I read a lot about issues with montanov range, but personally haven’t had any problems with Montanov 202. I use it in combination with Lecigel to create a light non-shiny CCT emulsion for myself. I use it right away, so it never stays more than a motnh or two on my shelf. Maybe that’s why I don’t have issues with separation or something else…

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 3, 2023 at 5:09 am in reply to: Room Spray Recipe

    They use specific fragrance blends for the purpose. Also, by “perfume base” in other comment I meant a solution of ethanol, PG or DPG and Benzyl benzoate and/or diethyl phthalate. Two latter are considered as fixatives.

    If you need a lingering smell I would personally suggest to just use other format of the product - diffuser, which stays in the car and lingers smell constantly.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 2, 2023 at 7:14 am in reply to: Dimethicone Preservative system for Fulsarium

    As I understood from “as a base of Dimethicone” the product doesn’t have water?

    Anyway I wonder why people don’t attach formula when asking such kind of questions.

  • fareloz

    Member
    August 1, 2023 at 8:43 am in reply to: Copper chloride

    Note that in the study Copper Chloride was combined with salicylic acid (4%), ethanol (4%) in PG base. So the study proves the combination works better that the same combination without Copper Chloride. It means to be proven you need replicate the same combination, which make it a drug due to high SA percentage.

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 31, 2023 at 10:24 am in reply to: Gellyfying oil(s) - ingredients

    I assume because it might be easier or more pleasant to apply some oily gel than very think liquid oil

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 27, 2023 at 8:34 am in reply to: Pet Degreaser Cream

    Why not just use regular animal shampoo then? What the point of applying “degresear”? Shampoo is already a degreaser

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 21, 2023 at 6:02 am in reply to: Cosmetic science forums

    LinkedIn is not actually a forum, it is a social network for job searching, right?

  • The first column is a ratio of water to alcohol:

    1 - 100% water, 0% ethanol

    0.7 - 70% eater, 30% ethanol

    0.3 - 30% water, 70% ethanol <- your solution.

    The second column is solubility per liter. According to the chart it is 191.28 g in 1 liter of 30% water, 70% ethanol solution. Or 19,13g + 100ml solution. Since your solution is not 100% pure ethanol-water mixture and SA also counts in your formula, it seems 14% is too high

  • It will crystalize eventually. Also, the lower ethanol content - the lower penetration (but not sure if it is important for ethanol over 60% content)

    You can check solubility of SA in ethanol-water solution of different proportions in study called “Solubility prediction of salicylic acid in water-ethanol-propylene glycol mixtures using the Jouyban-Acree model. (see attached image).

    As you can see water presence decreases the solubility dramatically.


  • fareloz

    Member
    July 18, 2023 at 10:09 am in reply to: Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

    I see a lot of recipes like starch+vinegar+glycerin to make DIY biodegradable plastic sheets in a mold. How sorbitol and propylene glycol affect the end result?

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 12, 2023 at 5:29 am in reply to: Tips for formulating with Copper PCA?

    It happens after a few weeks. Of course the process is gradual, but I notice the huge difference in color after few weeks

  • fareloz

    Member
    July 11, 2023 at 3:30 pm in reply to: Tips for formulating with Copper PCA?

    Does it happen in the Dark as well?

    Yes

    what kind of water are you using

    Bottled distilled water from one of suppliers

    adding other ingredients that have a bigger load of iones like Xantan for example?

    Indeed, in one formula I add a bit of Xanthan. But the green reaction happens even in pure water.

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