[suswang8]

You will need to post your entire formula.  It can be caused by so many things.  Reducing the amount of emulsifier might be the best/easiest option.

[suswang8]

Rats.  I had been salivating over a specific Ohaus for a few weeks now.  

[suswang8]

I’m not sure I’d get too excited.  Judging by this excerpt of ingredients from one product, it’s more than likely just sunflower seed powder.

“Ingredient Listing: Declustered Water (-)AquaEau De-Structuree (-) , Declustered Water (+)AquaEau De-Structuree (+) , Butylene Glycol , Methyl Gluceth-20 , Peg-75 , Alcohol Denat. , Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane , Algae (Seaweed) Extract , Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil , Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Powder , Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake , Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal , “

[suswang8]

-1-  There is a difference between a humectant and something that “moisturizes” your skin.  The subject matter can become very complex when you start talking about lipids and whether they “moisturize,” and lipids are obviously not humectants.  In other words, whether the product takes care of your (personal) dehydrated skin may not have anything to do with its glycerin or urea content.  
-2-  Lots of threads on here about related topics.  Glycerin is time-tested, safe to use on even very sensitive skin types, works, and is inexpensive.  But there are other humectants, like sodium PCA, that ostensibly attract more water.     

[suswang8]

Let me please rephrase, then:  Are there any microbiology test kits that someone can recommend for amateur use prior to getting professional tests done?  (To be clear:  I realize the “at home” testing would not be a substitute for professional testing.)

[suswang8]

Can someone recommend a place to buy these Schuelke Mikrocount kits?  Thank you.

[suswang8]

**Sorry:  correction:  I believe “fish eyes” is a reference to clumps.  If so, that is not what I have.  I have tiny air bubbles after homogenizing the xanthan in my water phase.  Is this bad?

[suswang8]

Thank you.  Any specifics?  .  
(I use my homogenizer to hydrate the gum in the water phase, but I sometimes go a bit crazy and introduce air/fish eyes.)

[suswang8]

MarkBroussard said:

The easiest way to integrate Xathan is to pre-hydrate it with Pentylene Glycol or Propanediol and add it to the water phase with stirring.  As the glycols coating the Xanthan dissolve into the water it exposes the surface of the Xanthan to the water to begin hydration.  These glycols are not as messy to work with as Glycerin.  

Note that this is primarily to prevent the formation of fish eyes and really does not significantly affect the hydration of the Xanthan. 

Does the creation of fish eyes negatively affect things when you go to combine phases (as part of an emulsion)?  Thank you.

[suswang8]

Well, Miss Uneducated here was aware that the people who wrote the article are trying to sell Synoxyl AZ.    But Syntheon is also trying to sell Vitasynol C, their Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate product.  I did not read the full article nor am I claiming to, but it is a bit risky to publish even an abstract that is critical of one of your own products, unless you think they’ve done it to essentially force all of their customers to buy both ingredients.  Keep in mind that they are not bundling the two as part of some “system” — they are still standalone products.  I just wonder if there is any truth to what they’ve published, regardless of their financial incentive.  

[suswang8]

I am pretty sure that even bottled distilled water has an expiration date on it, no?  If so, I think the recommendation is to boil it beforehand, even though it’s not fun and seems unnecessary, and this is probably a bit more important with cold process than hot process.

[suswang8]

Belinda Carli seems to say the acetate form does not protect formulations, which I would have to think applies to emulsions:

https://youtu.be/ioucAvsnziw?t=52

[suswang8]

Reopening the thread to ask how everyone dries their glass beakers…

I know we are supposed to let them “air dry,” but what does that mean exactly, especially when you want the glasses to dry quickly?  (In my experience, it can take more than just a few minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to completely evaporate.). I purchased a drying rack with wooden pegs, but then I realized that I probably cannot disinfect the wooden surfaces.  Should I get a drying rack with plastic bags?

[suswang8]

I thought the acetate form does not protect the formulation?

ketchito said:

Shams said:

@Graillotion My other ingredients are:
Emulsifiers: Stearic acid, GMS, Cetearyl alcohol, ceteareth-20
Water phase: ultrez, glycerin, betaine and Niacinamide
Oils : castor, meadofoam, isoamyl laurate
And then tocopherols, essential oil, Caprylyl glycol, green tea extract

I don’t use a chelating agent, do you think this will help?
What pH would you suggest?

@chemicalmatt I have to say it is not turning bright yellow..more of a dark beige color or a brownish yellow color.
From your experience, what ingredient do I need to avoid to prevent this Schiff base reaction? I am trying now to read more on the schiff’s base reaction..If you can make it simpler for me , that would be great.

TIA 

@Shams I also had some browning in a niacinamide serum, and I found out I needed an antioxidant, so you could try adding some tocopheryl acetate (not less than 0.5%) or a synthetic one (like Tinogard TL). 

[suswang8]

C_C, a 1% wash-off product like that is going to do nothing for acne.

[suswang8]

I’m thinking “1% citrate buffer” means “1% sodium citrate”?  Perhaps one of the experts on here can say for sure.

[suswang8]

Thank you, @MarkBroussard and @Graillotion.

What I should mention then is that I am doing (or trying to do!) cold process.  Sounds like I am better off allowing the gum to rest/hydrate for a few minutes before proceeding?

[suswang8]

Hi, all.

I already slurry it with my glycerin, but I thought that this facilitates dispersion, not hydration?  Basically, you all seem to be saying to add it into the water phase (not after the emulsion is made) and that there is no need to wait to ensure the gum is fully hydrated?

[suswang8]

Hi, @Meemcha.

For some reason, this derivative is still not widely used; thus, very little information about it seems to be available online.

I saw that a couple of websites describe it as water soluble, in which case I would be tempted to just add it at 1pct to start with and test there.  If you are making 50g samples, that is only 0.5g used/wasted.  May I ask where you found that information about dissolving it in the citric acid mixture first?  I can only imagine it is necessary to do that if the pH of this product is so low that the “shock” of it going into water with a pH of c.7 is too much for it to handle? I really don’t know. 

[suswang8]

I’m confused.
You’re taking an already-made product and attempting to add (and suspend) pumice within it?

[suswang8]

michalby said:

suswang8 said:

[…]

Regarding preservatives, if that is working via your testing, then I am not going to fault it, but I think 0.2% phenoxyethanol is considered quite low.  I assume you are adding in each of these components individually and not adding them as part of a pre-formulated, combined preservative?

This particular formula is not yet tested for microbial contamination after long storage and/or use. But I’ve successfully used that preservative combination before and tests came out fine.

I’ll keep you guys updated.

Out of curiosity, are you using a pre-formulated blend of both preservatives (i.e., already combined)?   Or are you individually adding each component at 0.2%?

[suswang8]

Regarding gums, I was saying that if you are willing to add in Ecogel, which is mostly gums , the easiest thing for you to do would be to just add a bit more gum — I don’t think you need both Ecogel and xanthan.  I would use a high-quality xanthan and perhaps just increase the concentration by 0.1%-0.2% above what you have now and see if you like the result, but if skin feel is very important, you are probably better off adding in an additional gum like sclerotium or  Solagum.  Most importantly, how significant of a change are you looking for?  A minor one, or a dramatically thicker product?

Regarding preservatives, if that is working via your testing, then I am not going to fault it, but I think 0.2% phenoxyethanol is considered quite low.  I assume you are adding in each of these components individually and not adding them as part of a pre-formulated, combined preservative?

[suswang8]

If you’re willing to add Ecogel, I would just as soon add an additional 0.1%-0.2% of gum — either a high-quality xanthan, Solagum, or sclerotium.

And are you sure that’s sufficient preservative?

[suswang8]

I would pay a visit to Olionatura.

[suswang8]

Syl said:

I believe bacterial contamination has to do with water activity, not a water amount. I am not an expert on the subject, and I wonder what is the water activity in an anhydrous system? 

This is a good point, but I would have to think the quantity of water is one of the biggest drivers of water activity, no?