

Sibech
Forum Replies Created
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@MarkBroussard I see no ducks on that LOI, are you sure there is quack water and not just plain regular humbug water!There is a tonic water from La Mer with “Declustered Water” something so stupid, that I still remember what product it was! https://www.cremedelamer.com/product/20180/26246/cleansers-and-toners/the-tonic/face-toner#/sku/48998
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@ngarayeva001 Other places to buy fragrances in EU would be Sensory Perfection, The Soap Kitchen or GlamourCosmetics (Italian)Edit: Formatting issues
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@BeautifullyArtistic presuming you are a homecrafter and basically just mixing up your own colors (based on the fact that you are using a shot glass) you would probably be fine with a jigger. And as belassi mentioned, get one of stainless steel.
and remember gloves, which should be changed if you spill on them. Most nail polish contains some… less than heatlthy solvents- fine on your nails, less fine on repeated skin exposure.
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Sibech
MemberNovember 30, 2018 at 10:44 pm in reply to: Why is Vitamin C now touted as the next big thing for skin care?@Perry I agree with your overall statement on vitamin C, but I think it might also be that trends tend to be cyclical when the trend is forgotten it will be revitalized by marketing people and the cycle starts over.As for anti-aging benefit, I think it might actually be a confirmation bias with added biased memory. Just like psychics use (to great effect).By the way, got the correct count and noticed the gorilla, in fairness I was expecting something odd to be there.@gunther Vitamin C can reduce the duration of a cold from one week to seven days - totally worth it. -
Sibech
MemberNovember 29, 2018 at 11:18 pm in reply to: Something in the formula stops carbomer from forming a gel@ngarayeva001 I hope you get it to stabilize.If it works but soaps a bit, you could add a dash of dimethicone to reduce the soaping effect.If you’re going for a silicone-free version you could add Plantasens® Olive LD / Softolive / Fision® EcoSilFor a hobby-crafter, I only know of one retail-supplier of this; http://www.farmaciavernile.it/index.php?page=shop.product_details&category_id=9&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3291&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=65&vmcchk=1&Itemid=65
Edit: (I don’t know which of them it actually is… My guess is Plantasens, but I am not certain).
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@ravimosai Ethylene glycol is ethane-1,2-diol, whereas Butyl Cellusolve is 2-Butoxyethan-1-ol, they are chemically distinct molecules.
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@MarkBroussard According to the article, acneic individuals have strains which are producing porphyrins at a much higher rate than that of healthy individuals. There appears to be some inhibitor of the synthesis in “healthy” strains, as adding more precursor (Riboflavin and 5-ALA) hardly makes a difference in the total output of porphyrins, whereas acneic individuals produce significantly larger amounts when the precursors are available.Of course, we can speculate on the basis of available research, but for now, I think there are still too many questions to answer before we can reach a solid conclusion on the exact pathology of acne.
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Sibech
MemberNovember 26, 2018 at 8:54 pm in reply to: List of vitamin c that does not cause photosensitivity during the day!!!@MPatt I would tend to agree that your vitamin C serum is turning into DHA. But for the sake of discussion, if you do not have issues with DHA formation your problem could be the acids.Depending on the pH all alpha-hydroxy acids can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. this also goes for the ferulic acid.So the best answer is: Add a sunscreen warning and put on sunscreen a little while after applying the serum. -
Well, what I find interesting is that the strains differ between “healthy” and acneic individuals. But it would seem totally reasonable to expect people with a higher Squalene content in their sebum and with more porphyrins to create singlet oxygen and cause oxidation of the squalene, the oxidation product of which seems to be comedogenic (how I hate that term).
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@ngarayeva001- Most definitely marketing hype.@MarkBroussard The article I referred to previously (regarding porphyrins)
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@MarkBroussard In newer acne research you will find the cause why not all people get acne with P. Acnes inhabiting everybody. There are specific strains which are pathological and cause acne. An interesting feature is that these produce more porphyrins than non-pathological strains.
Seeing as you don’t have to have oily skin to have acne I don’t think you can help everyone with 5-alpha hydrogenase inhibitors, but you probably know that. -
Formulating is, as I see it, more of an empirical than theoretical science (granted, a lot of theory makes formulating so much easier!) and calling yourself a formulator is completely fine by me. As on-the-job training, which one could likely achieve some success with by self-study I would classify anyone without a formal degree as a Cosmetic Formulator.
I am of the conviction that Cosmetic Chemist implies an academic background in chemistry (or a related field) and thus an expectation of fundamental expertise and should only be used with the scientific background, simply to avoid confusion.
Having read the article though, they seem to be imprecise and inconsistent at best, lying and deceitful at worst.
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@Belassi Yes, I mean heavy, D2O indeed… Not hard water with high levels of calcium and magnesium (Woops).@mikethair while it may not have been digitalised, it is probably still accessible and I, for one, would love some references to look up (any excuse to go the nearest university library is valid in my opinions) if you happen to have them at hand.
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@Perry You are completely right they used that claim, I believe they settled the case and didn’t (strictly speaking) lose the case.If memory serves me right it wasn’t a lawsuit about the figurative “gives you wings” but actually the underlying claims of improving concentration etc. that was disputed.I’m glad that the FTC considers “The best” and similar claims hyperbole or “puff”, although even if they didn’t it could likely be circumvented by adding “Probably” before the statement.
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- The claim leftover alkali in soap increases lather in pH balanced soap is pure nonsense, as this would increase the pH, not reduce it.- Going with the “natural” vibe I doubt they use chelators in their “natural” soap. Which means that people with heavy water may have some residual soap scum leftover on the skin (or in your towel) and certainly in the shower and drain.@Perry I would actually qualify “this is the greatest product in the world” as a measurable quantity requiring a little elaboration (in sales numbers or worldwide statistics for instance, unlikely, impractical but strictly speaking doable). Although personally, I would read that as hyperbole.I would argue that something along the lines like “This perfume gives you wings” or “Nourishes the soul” is more puffery as they are literally impossible.
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@shrush You have already received plenty of information on the legitimate use of the extract as a natural colourant, but you can, assuming the extract is safe, legally use it as a skin conditioning agent (you might want to find substantiation in the literature or some testing for that).
@”Dr Catherine Pratt” The dye component of walnut bark (and other Juglanceaea plants) is juglone.
Juglone (5-hydroxy-2,4-naphthoquinone / Natural Brown 7). The Compound is pH sensitive and turns pinkish red at neutral to alkaline pH. it can stain your lips pink, while it will stain your skin yellow.
It relatively unstable and tends to polymerize into yellow, brown and black compounds (especially when drying leaves of walnut trees), you can also make ink from it.
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Sibech
MemberOctober 15, 2018 at 7:52 pm in reply to: Cow dung in cosmetics - What other wacky ingredients have you heard of?Placenta derivatives.It just seems so needless. -
I would expect it to be the amount in carrier, not living in the US i went to google and found only few claiming use of pure cbd.
Unless everyone else use standardized extracts I presume they state the amount of total extract with/without excipients. Just like many small producers list an extract in the top, not considering the solvents used.But it is difficult without puchasing and analysing to say if they actually tell the truth.
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Sibech
MemberOctober 8, 2018 at 6:35 pm in reply to: Raw material -> first cosmetic product. Assurance for industry novice to not go wrong way.@Gunther You’re not mistaken, however, it’s 0.4% as acid for PHBA, Methyl- and Ethylparaben and their Na, K and Ca salts.And 0.14% for propyl- and butylparaben and their Na & K salts (as acid)0.8% in total (as acid) for combinations of esters where the sum of the individual concentrations of butyl- and propylparaben and their salts does not exceed 0.14 %The limitations are written in the annex here: -
Parafinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) and Vegetable oil would be an example. I don’t have any “natural” non-polar oils in mind, but if you do the searching I know you can find non-polar oils.
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The fragrance, depending on composition and concentration, could contribute to preservative efficacy, especially in combination with dissolvine.
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Sibech
MemberSeptember 24, 2018 at 4:43 pm in reply to: A good episode about the science of essential oils@Perry For the most part - Yes, considering how many essential oils have been characterised it would be odd if not compound or mixture of compounds had been isolated and deemed efficient.But I also find the issue with most aroma-therapy/essential oil based study to be lacking a useful control group. I mean, if you were to do a double-blinded test on a cream, it would be REALLY difficult to keep the investigator blinded. Allowing for experimenters bias.On the other hand, I think we need to be open to well designed studies proving efficacy.-As for the podcast - here’s the transcript: -
Sibech
MemberSeptember 24, 2018 at 4:36 pm in reply to: A good episode about the science of essential oils@ngarayeva001- They are not wrong, if you generalize then several essential oils would not have an antimicrobial effect in lower concentrations (they probably would pure) some specific essential oils with certain compounds will, however. Tea tree oil works because it contains 4-carvomenthenol.
Thyme contains thymol
Oregano contains carvacrol
Cloves have eugenol
Lavender contains linalyl acetate (Angustifolia contains the most).
Mugwort contains Sabinene
I could continue…All of these chemicals (and many more) have an antimicrobial effect to varying degrees. However, the issue with essential oils just with plant extracts is standardisation. The ranges in which compounds may be present vary a lot, particularly between species, so it is not exactly reliable. -
@Doreen not at all (to my knowledge there are not even surgical procedures, I may be wrong though) - your pores have a life of their own.But due to a reduction of sebum secretion, niacinamide (for instance) can reduce visibly pores as @ngarayeva001 mentioned. Other compounds which may reduce sebum secretion would likely also work, including polyphenols, plant sterols, topical retinoids, L-carnitine (of the top of my head).