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  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 12, 2021 at 12:27 pm in reply to: Is this preservative system enough? using tap water

    pH (via pKa) is a controlling factor for organic acids - benzoic and sorbic - efficacy.  In combination with some surfactants (incl those commonly used for shampoos etc.) , the effective benzoic acid pKa and pH range for efficacy for  is greatly increase - approaching neutrality.    This has not been observed fior sorbic acid.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 11, 2021 at 6:15 pm in reply to: Is this preservative system enough? using tap water

    Is this for personal use?  Didn’t see 1-3 months self life mentioned.   Are you heating your “tap water” or is this cold process?
    Reducing “bug food” is not going to mean you need less preservation.  The common contaminats of shampoos (esp. cepacia)  can grow quite well in distiled water.

    I’ve seen some degree of synergism with benzyl alcohol and benzoate but you will need a chelator.  The cosmetic market has largely gravitated to benzoate over sorbate, esp. in the surfactant context.

    Historically orgniac acids, with parabens, were the go-to preservatives.  The development of cold-process, surfactant-based shampoos back in the 1930’s found them  pretty useless, and the industry shifted to formaldehyde with L’Oreal’s Dopal and P&G’s Drene.

    Is “eco-friendly” your marketing claim?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 11, 2021 at 3:18 pm in reply to: Is this preservative system enough? using tap water

    Probably not - tap water typically includes pseudomonads - esp. P . aeruginosa.    Chloromethylisothiazolinone is the most commonly- used primary preservative in surfactant products.  Suggest use with Na benzoate and EDTA.   

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 5:47 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Please let us know how it works .

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 1:37 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Help me understand, please.  I understood your consideration that the product was “self-preserving” - why did you think that possible?  Is there unique chemistry?

    Be aware the preservative test evaluates speed and extent of kill, not growth inhibition.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 7:15 am in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    I encourage folks to design a system that should work (theoretically effective against Gram -/+ and fungi) and then confirm it works vs these in challenge testing both as made and after ageing.  Passing a classic USP 51 (as EP or ISO) is not a guarantee.  Prrservatives help in manufcturing but are primarily intended (as specified by FDA and EU cosmetic directive) to protect consumers in use and USP is not validated fpr that.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 6:36 am in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    There is a reason every cosmetic product on the market includes preservatives.  
    Why would you assume your product is uniquely “self-preserving.”

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 9:42 am in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Andraous said:

    I am doing a chalenge test before using any preservative 

    Why?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 12:36 am in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Coke cola?  A single-use product in a pressurized, herrmetically-sealed vessel at a prohibitive pH?  Coke is clearly irrelevant.

    Benzoic acid (Na benzoate) as preservative has a substantial Gram negative gap.  One need merely look at COSMETIC products now on the market to see its limited use - and virtually always as a secondary preservative.

    Please - preservation is a serious effort.  Infections from contaminated cosmetics have resulted in blindness and even death.  If you don’t know the subject well, please do not offer casual suggestions.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 12:26 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Sodium benzoate by itself is not adequate.   A simple check of cosmetic labels (not just for micellar water) shows virtually none using that option.  Pseudomonads eat benzoate.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 7, 2021 at 11:38 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Try to other biugunaide 1st - polyaminopropyl biguanide.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 7, 2021 at 12:16 pm in reply to: Make the chemist’s life wonderful again!

    From the big company cosmetic experience, I’ll offer that it’s both acquisition and development - rarely acquisition only to block others.   Cosmeticss are so dynamic that first to market with a unique product/claim/compelling ad is much more of a win than slowing others - even if possible. 
    As consumers are more convinced of extravagant claims when combined with extravagant precetag, technology cost is often not a barrier.  But advertising (even to puffery) is a factor in convincing without great technology.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 4, 2021 at 5:22 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Another biguanide -  polyaminopropyl biguanide.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 4, 2021 at 3:20 pm in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Think EU cosm directive allows 0.1% with stipulation - “Not to be used in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation.”
    Are there other nonpermissive directives? 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 2, 2021 at 12:01 pm in reply to: Polysorbate 80 and phenoxythanol

    Concentration and formula dependent.  

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 2, 2021 at 11:58 am in reply to: Micellar water one phase preservative

    Irritation effect ? Is this from experience or heresay?  Glycols help but that still at minimum leaves a fungal gap. IPBC is any option - some use PHMB.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 31, 2020 at 3:05 pm in reply to: Binding free water….explanation please.

    Please work off water activity of the product, not percentage of any ingredient.   As a stand-alone agent of preservation, water activity should be less than 0.7.  As shown in the attached, you’ll need much greater levels for the polyols in aq. solution - e.g. >60% propanediol.  As pharma said, lesser levels may contribute but  please measure water activity of the product as the control element not their %. per se.   and be aware - lowering Aw will inhibit but not necessarilly kill - and may not contribute in  challenge test.

    https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00301063/docuent
    and
    https://www.researchgate.net/publication/266083369_Optimization_of_cosmetic_preservation_Water_activity_reduction#fullTextFileContent

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 31, 2020 at 2:21 pm in reply to: Which bugs will colloidal oatmeal feed the most.

    count  yes - but “recognized pathogens” is not enough.  An y Gram negative bacteria?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 29, 2020 at 9:01 pm in reply to: Which bugs will colloidal oatmeal feed the most.

    Formaldehyde releaser, organic acid if pH works.  Is context rinse off  or leave on?  Hot process?  How clean is your otameal nd what is package design?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 29, 2020 at 2:25 pm in reply to: Which bugs will colloidal oatmeal feed the most.

    I’d not expect much from triethyl citrate and wonder at phenethyl if 9010. 
     Look at similar, marketed products, esp. those from major companies.  Think adding a more water soluble preservative and something for fungi will help. Are you budgeted to do range finding PET testing?  

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 28, 2020 at 5:45 pm in reply to: Which bugs will colloidal oatmeal feed the most.

    It is a project - prob end up with a complex system.

  • Be aware - some preservatives can affect voscosity and color.  So you may need to recycle ln some development matters.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 27, 2020 at 10:45 am in reply to: Which bugs will colloidal oatmeal feed the most.

    The bugs don’t need much to contaminate.  Oatmeal certainly works for them as pharma said and also redcues preservative efficacy.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    December 25, 2020 at 9:39 pm in reply to: Merry Christmas to everyone!

    Me too - Merry Christmas!!

  • jemolian said:

    @PhilGeis in terms of longer chain, would it be from pentylene glycol and higher?I’ve been wondering about that.

    yes

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