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  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 4:24 pm in reply to: Glycol and Chelating Agents

    MIT/CMIT are certainly of greater sensitization potential than IPBCl.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 2:49 pm in reply to: Glycol and Chelating Agents

    IPBC biggest (questionable) theoretical concern was Iodine impact on thyroid function but it is in derm test patch kits - https://www.dermatologyadvisor.com/home/decision-support-in-medicine/dermatology/allergic-contact-dermatitis-preservatives/

    Right.
    Na benzoate might if in surfactant context for Newtoform’s other products

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 2:41 pm in reply to: Natural versus Synthetic

    @pharma
    Me too!

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 1:27 pm in reply to: Natural versus Synthetic

    @Pharma
    Greenwashing?  How is any of this not?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 1:21 pm in reply to: leaving out ingredients on the label

    For other potential ingredients exempt from labeling

    Incidental Ingredients

    Definition:
    Any processing aid added and removed or converted to a declared ingredient
    or
    Any ingredient of another ingredient or processing aid present at an insignificant level and having no technical or functional effect

    https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling-regulations/cosmetics-labeling-guide#clgl9

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 1:20 pm in reply to: leaving out ingredients on the label

    In US, you can pursue trade secret protection.  You’re very unlikely to find a product on the market with that exemption.   
    FDA comments
    “Review time varies. You will receive at least an interim response within 180 days, but not necessarily a final decision at that time. For the one request granted in the last twenty years, our complete review process took about one year.”
    (emphasis added)

    https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/trade-secret-ingredients

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 12:54 pm in reply to: Glycol and Chelating Agents

    @Newtoformulating
    Sure - formaldehyde is a reactant and cyanide too (gasp).  Both “natural” materials and orders of magnitude of both in  our bodies than from EDTA in a product.  Why is this a problem?  Can’t imagine many of sufficient education to understand EDTA synthesis wouldn’t understand that neither would be in the commercial product or pose a risk.  

    You can preserve with those and suggest you add Na benzoate,  It’ll be more labor intensive and you’ll need to qualify each application as no combination will carry over well from product to product.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 7, 2022 at 12:36 pm in reply to: Microbial limits for natural cosmetic ingredients?

    Good point.  Irradiation is certainly an option and commonly used for starch and earth materials  -  clays, pumice, talc etc.  Individual cosm manuf plants wouldn’t have - materials, containment, etc.  You’d send the material to a purpose-built comm. sterilization facility like Steris. It’s pretty expensive. 
    Seen it used for fin used products but can’t for OTC’s without NDA approval.

    Why not “natural”?  Gamma irradiation occurs naturally (radon etc.).  Just needs certification.  Bet  if EWG could get a piece of the action, they’d endorse as well.  Worth noting the USDA scare monger say irradiated food can’t be labeled “organic” .  if any food needed it……

  • I’ve seen conditioners from major  cosmetic companies with pH 3-4.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 6, 2022 at 7:02 pm in reply to: Microbial limits for natural cosmetic ingredients?

    You can manage some greater specs but a high count will likely throw your finished product out any appropriate spec and may well include objectionable and contamination risk microorganisms.  How will you bring the finished product into spec? FDA does not like folks who use preservatives to control manuf risk.

    You’re putting at risk not only the product but also your manufacturing facility.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 6, 2022 at 3:03 pm in reply to: Chart of chain length of glycols….

    Propanediol (Zemea) is a good addition to a preservative system.  you’ll see this in some Estee Lauder products - but not by itself.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 6, 2022 at 3:00 pm in reply to: Is PEO/PEG incompatible with parabens?

    As ketchito said - you wasting chelating capacity to no benefit.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 6, 2022 at 2:49 pm in reply to: Glycol and Chelating Agents

    System feels a bit naked.  Add a chelator - use EDTA.  Unless you make some biodegradable claim, there’s no driver for GLDA.  Benzyl isn’t bad vs fungi.  

    Do some testing.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 5, 2022 at 9:18 am in reply to: Is PEO/PEG incompatible with parabens?

    If you’re concerned with loss of efficacy - test with and without.  
    Why do you bother with EDTA if you’re compromising the objective of its addition? 
    Further - toxicity of your concern exists but is not highlighted in CIR’s summary of EDTA in-use safety for cosmetics*.  Think it arose from use of the material directly to urinary tract for stones.  What is your risk assessment - NOEL and how would exposure from your product exceed it?

    *”Based on the available data, the Cosmetic Ingredient
    Review Expert Panel found that these ingredients* are safe as used
    in cosmetic formulations.”

    these ingredients include sodium and calcium sodium salts of EDTA

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 5, 2022 at 1:47 am in reply to: Is PEO/PEG incompatible with parabens?

    Recommend propyl parabens at 0.1%.  Is your  level 0.04% or 0.4 (lower to “0.32”)?
    Why would you want Ca NaEDTA?  If intent is to sequester divalent cations - why waste capacity?
    Test it.  

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 5, 2022 at 1:24 am in reply to: Chart of chain length of glycols….

    The mechanisms of preservative efficacy is generally just speculation based on superficial if not crap research.   Membrane damage ?  Hit a cell with a hammer, stuff leaks out and conclude membrane damage.  
    Preservatives likely have multiple impacts on cell viability.  Development is more Edisonian than thoughtful.  Use what works in useful combinations and don’t worry about “mechanism.”
    Sometimes business majors have good insight.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 5, 2022 at 12:12 am in reply to: Are the days of “natural” cosmetics coming to an end?

    natiyo123 said:

    I think formulas containing only 100% derived ingredients ( for example starting from biomass as raw material) CAN and DO work. Ive done some formulas… theyre more difficult to create but I think it is possible

    What isn’t derived from nature - from biomass (what does that mean?).  Can you be specific?

    Can you be specific in terms of preservstives.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 4, 2022 at 4:53 pm in reply to: Water-Based Lubricant - Formula Validation

    water - Qs
    Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.75%
    Propanediol - 5%
    Glycerin - 3%
    Sodium Benzoate - 0.4%
    Phenoxyethanol - 0.3%
    EDTA - 0.1%
    Aloe Vera Juice - 0.05%

    Would this be a better formula? 

    Looks ok - maybe phenoxy at 0.5% and Na benozate a bit less maybe 0.26%.
    Will you challenge test through stability per ISO?
    Do watch out for contaminated aloe juice.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 4, 2022 at 10:46 am in reply to: Are these preservatives compatible with each other?

    The concept of “bug food” is generally pretty irrelevant.  The typical contaminants grow well enough in water, even distilled water

    If lecithin is the issue - it’s likely as a preservative  neutralizer.  It’s used for that purpose in recovery media.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 4, 2022 at 10:13 am in reply to: Are the days of “natural” cosmetics coming to an end?

    The only difference is that those hiding behind Ecocert head fake have a better story.

  • MgCl is highly soluble in a highly aqueous application.  With or without chelator - this is a story not a consumer benefit.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 3, 2022 at 6:28 pm in reply to: Are these preservatives compatible with each other?

    It’s only “natural” by the credentialing BS.    
    any chance pH has drifted high?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 3, 2022 at 6:13 pm in reply to: Are these preservatives compatible with each other?

    It was simply not a stable preservative system in your product.  Germall plus I assume an antifungal and chelator is more stable. Products are not sterile so growth of a fungal contaminant is not necessarily a problem with manufacturing hygiene.
    If you’re certain you see a mold colony - why waste time culturing?  Your issue is with preservation.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    July 3, 2022 at 3:21 pm in reply to: Are these preservatives compatible with each other?

    Graillotion makes an excellent point.  Esp. in preservative context, develop a combination that gives consistent efficacy through the range of type formulas.  Likely shampoos will not be the same as lotions - but within each  through it’s own range of pH, emulsifiers, etc. it will speed development and give consistent protection.

  • Appreciate your intent but, in shampoo context, think you reaching for a story more than clinical endpoint.   Even if effective, you’re unlikely to get enough from a shampoo. 
    Mg ascorbyl phosphate applied directly at % levels has some animal data supporting hair growth..

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