Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Who wants to extrapolate on this statement?

  • Who wants to extrapolate on this statement?

    Posted by Graillotion on July 9, 2022 at 3:40 am

    Because of my crazy personality….I need to know the tiny nuances in every aspect of the formulas I play with.

    I was reading a document (technical) that someone had linked into a thread about 5 months ago, relating to preservation

    Here is the statement:

     A variation
    of the polarity of the oil-phase has an
    influence on the partition of antimicrobial
    ingredients between the water-phase and
    the oil-phase.

    Other than water, Isoamyl Laurate is my most used ingredient.  It also has a polarity extreme.

    So, with Isoamyl laurate in mind…. can someone extrapolate on this statement, and include if my favorite child is helping or hindering in this regard.


    I will link said document, for context, and those interested in some extra credit reading. :)  

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 9 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Graillotion

    July 9, 2022 at 5:31 am

    Second question.  If one reads the full article, one discovers that emulsifiers containing cetearyl glucosides greatly increased the challenge of preservation.  Aka Montanov 68 and the likes.

    Question… Several of the other Montanov’s also contain various glucosides, starting with different names like Arachidyl Glucoside or C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside.  Will all glucosides have this same detrimental performance….or is that something unique to ‘cetearyl’ glucoside?

  • Pharma

    July 9, 2022 at 6:40 pm

    That publication is easy to read things into it which aren’t there. The way I interprete it is that liquid crystal networks aka lamellar structures are problematic (especially for bacteria and/or levulinate/GMCY) and the preservation system (GMCY, levulinate and anisate) generally sucks regarding Aspergillus… One possible explanation why GMCY fails with lamellar networks might be that it tends to reduce viscosity stronger in these than in micellar structures.

  • MarkBroussard

    July 9, 2022 at 7:43 pm


    The glucoside emulsifiers are generally rather difficult to thicken under any circumstances.  Add GMCY to a glucoside and you most often end up with soup, not a cream.  It’s just not a good combination.  I personally never use glucoside emulsifiers and GMCY, in combination, or separately, precisely for that reason.

  • PhilGeis

    July 9, 2022 at 8:13 pm

    “Polarity” of the oil phase - or emulsifier?
    As authors said, lots of things impact efficacy and they didn’t address partitioning - only efficacy - and most of their data was useless.

Log in to reply.