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  • suswang8 said:

    Are these true emulsifiers, or just suspensions?  

    Where’s the difference?
    It’s an emulsion/suspension. The effect used to stabilise it is severalfold: high external viscosity, Pickering type emulsion, and hydrophobic interactions similar to a polymeric emulsifier. It may not be perfect regarding hydrophobic interactions but that doesn’t mean anything. True, standard prodction processes will more likely result in coarser emulsions or require a higher energy input but one can as easily mess up any type of emulsion… an emulsion is not a stable system and the way how you create it is often more important than which emulsifier you use. But that’s a bit OT.
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 22, 2022 at 5:57 am in reply to: Salt generated Viscosity: ph

    ???? I  am from the country where all advancement there but we can not googled our failures and success from there dear. Thanks for your help. My question is ph of solution to which I am going to  add salt, change the viscosity as sometimes I get viscosity and sometimes not with same ingredients. 

    In that case, read a book such as ‘Surfactant Science, Principles & Practice’ by Steven Abbott (free PDF download online available on his HP).

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 21, 2022 at 7:15 pm in reply to: Salt generated Viscosity: ph
    No, adding salt is not about changing pH (table salt doesn’t even change pH).
    I assume you’re living in a country not served by Google (or completely lack own initiative); so HERE you go.
  • You will want to add lactic acid to gain the viscosity and stability build with STPDA, generally 3:1 amine to acid (depending on the acid)…

    3:1 mass or mol fraction?

  • Yup, that’s it.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 18, 2022 at 8:27 pm in reply to: CDB Effectivness on the Skin

    It is already but there’ll be restrictions in a few weeks (legal workarounds are being prepared). However, we have a pilot project for legal THC launching, hopefully, this fall also in our pharmacy ;) .

  • I have set my Windows calculator to ‘scientific’… comes with the ‘log’ function (though estimating based on pka vs. pH works good enough for me). *Cough-cough*

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 18, 2022 at 7:17 pm in reply to: Help! What is making the color change??
    Unadulterated willow bark does not contain salicylic acid but salicin, a salicylic alcohol glucoside ;) . Aspen may contain a small amount of free but more likely bound salicylic acid (most plants do contain small amounts thereof because it’s an important plant hormone) which might be higher than in other species (but still not high enough to be a valuable source for its isolation because, as said, it has a strong effect on plant growth and health). Nonetheless, the main salicylate constituent in aspen is salicin, too.
    Only products from Active Micro Technologies contain salicylic acid… as a scientific report has shown, petrochemistry based SA has been added. So yes, the two plant extracts are highly likely to be adulterated with synthetic salicylic acid at unknown and varying levels (alongside some questionable quaternary ammonium compounds) and this might probably be a source for colour fomation (though proper chelation should minimise that). Reminds me of something: Where are the antioxidants in that formulation?
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 18, 2022 at 6:55 pm in reply to: CDB Effectivness on the Skin
    Scientific reports? Good luck!
    I dind’t check the last few months but before that, there was nothing available except that CBD has very poor stratum corneum penetration (which is to be expected). Some reports and hearsay indicate that it might work on the skin itself and/or on ‘permeable’ skin (injuries, diseased skin etc.).
    THC on the other hand does have a systemic effect upon topical application mostly because it doesn’t ake too much to get high.
  • ketchito said:

    SAPDMA is not an alternative to silicones.

    True that. But in the above formulation, it probalby serves another purpose, namely as co-emulsifier, which increases emulsion stability and boosts the lamellar network. Replacing it with a silicone alternative would also mean that an appropriate emulsifier most likely has to be added.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 17, 2022 at 8:13 pm in reply to: Help! What is making the color change??
    Did you measure pH (several times during the colour changing hour)?
    I would say it’s gluconolactone which hydrolyses (that is what it’s supposed to do) turning acidic and the dropping pH in turn causes something (likely anthocyanins) to change colour. Where exactly these molecules come from…. maybe the mulberry extract (red/blue mulberries contain lots of them)?
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 17, 2022 at 7:38 pm in reply to: Ferulic acid degradation or interacting with other ingredients

    Ascorbic acid degrades to a plethora of aroma compounds (before polymerising to dark pigments). Ferulic acid can speed up AA degradation and might, in theory, also form aroma compounds but, I guess, is more likely to simply polymerise to yuck.

  • @ketchito In that particular case, it makes absolute sense to use is. IMHO cationics are underrated in skin care. They behave differently which makes them more difficult to use (HLB for example utterly fails. It does so in many cases anyway but with quaternaries…) and there’s also a regulatory side to the story. However, stearamidoethyl diethylamine by itself isn’t even a charged molecule and can be used for diverse types of emulsion (and they can feel really nice).
    Regarding gum mastic: THIS may an explanation.
  • Your assumption is the truth which we’ve been told for decades. However, it’s just an approximation which often holds true but isn’t exact science… it’s full of exceptions and there are also more reliable tools around.
    As a rule of thumbs for everyday life, it’s okay to use (just don’t be disappointed if it doesn’t work).
  • 1. Correct, salicylic acid doesn’t do anything in a rinse-off product. Add less, this won’t keep you from using it as claim ingredient.
    2. Depends on your definition (or rather that of your clients) of oil.
    3. Is it a brightening/bleaching product or a moisturiser? If it’s the former, adding also licorice would totally fit the claims. You’d be on the safer side to use ethyl ascorbate instead of ascorbic acid. 5% arbutin is limit because you risk that it’s not fully dissolved.
    Did you actually make these products or are you only planning on making them?
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 17, 2022 at 4:32 am in reply to: Would it be possible…
    In short, TEC isn’t an acid but will hydrolyse to one in case of elevated pH. This, in a way, does ‘buffer’ a solution. You’ll find the long version somewhere here on board.
    Besides that, 14 weeks and a pH drift of 0.3, that’s not bad. More important than ‘buffering’ is a good pH to start with.
  • Afer all those iterations, one is inclined to assume that you’ve covered most of the formulation universe… if you still haven’t found what you’re looking for, there’s, say, three possibilities left:
    A: A systematic error. Meaning, your production process needs optimisation.

    B: You’re doing your trials completely unorganised, change several ingredients at the same time, don’t know how each ingredient affects the outcome… like trying to shoot a target with an offset rifle without knowing where the prior shot hit.

    C: You’ve not used the ingredients which could result in your desired haptics.
    D : You’re expectations are too high.

    In order to figure out what’s not working, best start with point A (because that’s what should be solved first and because it’s the most likely culprit), then B, and finally C (don’t think about D untill it’s the only thing left).
    Before I break my fingers from all the typing for nothing, I’ll tell you only the first part of point A. Once that’s resolved, we’ll proceed.
    Take a hard, perfectly flat plate, best would be something transparent such as a piece of milkglass and a perfectly straight piece of something such as a ruler, the back of a knife, a rectangular piece of metal… That piece needs to be sharp edged and so straight and neat that you can slide it sideways over the plate without scratching it. Put a small blob of your wet product on the plate and spread it with the edge of the ruler/metal block. Push hard enough that only a fine layer passes underneath, so fine that it’s slightly transparent but thick enough so you can just see an evenly coloured layer. If you see comets (traces where there is less or even no product) and plate and ruler are smooth enough, then you didn’t homogenise/disperse well enough and still have powder aggregates.
    Try that and, before you attempt another 100 iterations, give a feedback so we can figure out your next step.
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 14, 2022 at 7:13 pm in reply to: Help on what ingredient makes hair straw like

    What pH does your conditioner have?

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 14, 2022 at 3:54 pm in reply to: Emulsification Question
    Maybe it’s a two phase product intended to be shaken before use?
    Sea moss isn’t INCI compliant.
    Peppermint, green tea and raspberry tea… confusing… powdered peppermint and grean tea leaves and a decoction of raspberry leaves/berries/roots? WTH!
    I’m missing at least two ingredients I’d expect to be present in such a product: Love and Ouija board tea :D.
  • Both wouldn’t be allowed in the EU and both don’t look ‘mild’ to me. Ah well, the world is overpopulated anyway…

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 11, 2022 at 7:33 pm in reply to: Why is the use of etidronic acid and its salts restricted?
    I’ve never seen phosphonates in any household product which list exactly what’s inside. Unfortunately, laundry detergents and the like do not have to list precisely what’s in them on the package ;( .
    Bans are (speaking from my perspective on the other side of the atlantic ocean) often not highly targeted, meaning that a ban affects industry, agronomy, and private householdes all together even if there is one side-branche of one of them responsible for, say, 90% impact. You may argue with the case of borax which is prohibited in most of Europe… except for some industrial branches. Tough if you look at it more closely, the ones allowed to still use it are, theoretically, considered and obligated to use it wisely so it does not end up in the environment like it does when private users just flush it down the drain.
    Though I’d say that very often, it’s not one guilty but the sum of all which causes environmental accumulation over decades of abusive spillage and kills nature and the sum of household detergents is considerable (at least here where farmers may not be as excessive as in the States). I do not support @PhilGeis mentality in this one (I may be wrong and misled, I only know his ‘character’ from posts here on board). If everyone acted that way… well, actually, everyone does act that way and that’s the reason why change to the better ain’t going to happen any time soon.
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 11, 2022 at 4:39 am in reply to: Essential Oils and Lamellar Emulsion Stability


    When you say add the EOs to an oil phase, and add the lamellar structure builders as a separate phase, I’m assuming you mean add the EOs to a cool-down oil phase since most EOs have lower flash points than the hot oil phase.

    Should I briefly homogenize at the end of cool-down in order to ensure EO’s are incorporated properly?

    No, I’m not saying how you do it exactly, I’m just saying that using certain strategies/techniques could work. How you do it precisely… that’s up to you and the emulsifier/LGN promotor you’re using ;) .
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 10, 2022 at 7:43 pm in reply to: Electrolyte free chelators
    Siderophores are sometimes hydroxamates but all are very good Fe3+ chelates, thousands times better than pyrithione. With iron 3+, they form one of the strongest non-covalent interactions known to mankind. The only biological means to get iron out of the complex is either by metabolising the siderophore molecule or, more easily, by reducing iron to its 2+ state which binds a lot less tightly.
    I don’t know whether this, a different metabolism or anything else is what makes them resistant to hydroxamates.
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 10, 2022 at 12:08 pm in reply to: Seriously off topic question about pharma and insulin
    Registration for biosimilars has become a lot easier and cheaper recent years, similar to generic drugs wherein most of the data (except the ‘similarity’) don’t have to be provided.
    Every country has its own way to set prices… Here in Switzerland prices are usually higher (not always, though) than in neighboring countries and human insulin costs about $ 50-60 for 5 pens with each 300 IU, a 10 ml ampule with 1’000 IU about $ 25, and modified insulins or combinations cost between $ 60 and 100 for 5 pens. What’s the US prices, if I may ask?
  • Pharma

    Member
    August 10, 2022 at 11:55 am in reply to: Why is the use of etidronic acid and its salts restricted?

    It’s also used as a prescription drug and hazardous to aquatic organisms. Besides, there are safer alternatives.

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