Help Please! Questions On Some Formulas With Salicylic Acid, Peptides, and Alpha Aurbtin
Hi Everyone, I have been working on some exciting formulas, and a few questions have come to mind. I would appreciate your opinion if possible.
1. A cleanser for Acne-Prone Skin - (Vegan and Foaming) - 2 years shelve life.
Aqua (Deionized Water), Sodium Gluconate, Vegetable Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Alkyl PolyGlucosides, Coco-Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Propylene Glycol (BIOBASED), Niacinamide, Chamomilla Recutita (Chamomile), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate
Actives:- 2% Salicylic Acid & 1% Niacinamide
I know most actives don’t shine in a non-leave-on formula like a cleanser. Is it a better option to put the salicylic acid at 1%?
2. The second thing I am working on is an Oil- Free Moisturizer (Vegan - For very oily to acne-prone skin). The challenge here is for me to at an elegant texture that feels hydrating even though it’s oil-free.
Aqua (Deionized Water), Sodium Gluconate, Vegetable Glycerin, Propylene Glycol (BIOBASED), Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycol Distearate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Niacinamide, Aqua (Deionized Water), Salicylic Acid, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate, Emblica Officinalis (Amla Berry) Extract
- 2% - Niacinamide
- 2% - Salicylic Acid
Do you think I can make this 1.5% salicylic acid and 5% niacinamide, and how can I achieve that plush texture?
Also, will Castor Isostearate Succinate still allow the formula to pass as oil-free?
3. The third one is a Peptide Moisturizer (with anti-aging properties, brightening and great for dry skin).
Aqua (Deionized Water), Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Leaf) Juice, Vegetable Glycerin, Stearic Acid RSPO, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Decyl Oleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil (Castor Oil), Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera (Carnauba Wax), Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum (Vitamin A)
- 2% - Hyaluronic,
- 1.4% Vitamin C
- 5% - Alpha Arbutin
- 5% - Niacinamide
- 1% - Vitamin A
Here I worry that 5% alpha arbutin might be too much, and maybe 2% is ideal. Also, is ethyl ascorbic acid (vitamin c) a great addition or not? And should I be adding more % of peptides in this peptide moisturizer, say (3%)?
Lastly, what ingredients would you recommend to give the product a barely there smell without being a fragrance or essential oil (I was thinking about licorice extract) but wasn’t sure.
I know it’s a lot - but any help will be appreciated here!
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