Pharma
Forum Replies Created
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Yes, yes, and yes. Although, you need enough for to achieve the yes.
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Patented for what? If it’s not cosmetic related, sure. But then again, it would be a new cosmetic ingredient… If it’s a cosmetic ingredient patented for action A and you want it to use for action B, you’d have to proof that it actually only has action B. Proofing means likely court and lawyers and the like if the patent holder gets a hold of you.Take Thiamidol as an example: It could also be used as antioxidant. However, there is no point in adding Thiamidol as such. Every judge will see (at least after getting brainwashed by a dozen Beiersdorf lawyers who know how to deal with such cases) that you only try to cut around the patent and are in fact after the anti-pigment effect. Proving that Thiamidol in your product does not reduce pigmentation but solely acts as antioxidant isn’t worth the trouble, certainly not as long as there are cheaper antioxidants available.
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What about cosmeceuticals? Where to draw the line between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals and/or should there be an intermediate category? I like the Japanese system of quasi drugs aka “mildly pharmaceutically active cosmetics”.
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How you make your liposomes is entirely up to you as long as you use cosmetic approved ingredients and list all which happen to remain in the final liposomal solution.We used thin film method too… starting with lecithin dissolved in not so healthy solvents like DCM and methanol. Did we remove every trace during drying? We didn’t check and our in vitro tests didn’t mind either but I wouldn’t necessarily use these liposomes in a cosmetic product. 🙂
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Depends. Some products are like making spaghetti (add spaghetti and salt to boiling water, wait 10′ and enjoy), others are more of a Michelin star 5 course molecular cuisine menu.So, it depends on what you want to make, why (for whom), and how much. Even if cooking spaghetti seems foolproof, cooking good spaghetti, let alone for hundredth of people at once… if you’re single and cook for yourself and your pet mini pig, they will be eaten with great pleasure no matter how good or bad a cook you turn out to be :smiley: .
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The main reason why an emulsion is not stable is that you messed it up… :blush:Seriously, read a book about emulsions and what factors impart or hamper stability. I suppose it would be mere speculation to guess which of all the possible factors happen more often in cosmetic inventing than others.1: The first place I look when addressing this kind of issue is my kitchen. That’s where I make most of my trial products. There I look at the product and observe, maybe wait longer or spin it in my centrifuge. The appearance of the semi-separated emulsion can tell you a lot. If I had some money left (or next time I want to buy something new), I’d invest in an optical microscope which would help a fair bit. If you have access to a LumiSizer or a Zetasizer, now, that would be something! Given that you ask the question you asked tells me, that you have no idea what these machines do… which means, read a book about emulsion basics.
2: Depends. Ethanol can have a positive, negative, or no effect on stability.
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Kathons come in several grades and diverse % of active ingredients. Technical grades may contain higher amounts of (possibly harmful) unknown/undisclosed additives, side-products, or impurities. Check out the SDS; certain Kathons contain high levels of salts such as copper nitrate, just to give an example.
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Depends
. Why do you want to add it? If it’s for preservation: Do you want to use other preservatives alongside pentylene glycol? Around 5% is the ‘standard’ concentration for it. You’ll have to try out and see if you like the outcome. -
It’s dispersible in hot water
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These are sometimes even listed as HLB-independent especially given that the HLB system is based on and made for PEG-derivatives.All, even glyceryl stearate (which is often a mixture of glyceryl monostearate with glyceryl monopalmitate and to some degree di-esters thereof), are not a fully defined chemical compound but mixtures and hence, hypothetical HLB will be different, sometimes even between batches and not just between manufacturers. The longer the hydrophilic side chain (increasing number of the polyglyceryl part), the higher the possibilities for a more diverse molecular mixture. PEG-derivatives always have a straight PEG-chain and a single fatty acid attached to one end, polyglyceryl esters can be branched and the fatty acid may be attached anywhere. Different production methods result in different blends too.
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It would, unfortunately.
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If you want a useful answer, you’ll have to share what exactly that seasoning is and why it smells. Unless you’re going to use cyclodextrins or add overpowering flavours, knowing the chemical nature of the odour molecules is mandatory for any kind of recommendation.If it’s durian, just forget it and only sell to people like myself who loves its smell :smiley: .
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Glyceryl caprylate at 1% could be a co-emulsifier and/or a preservative. Given that there are emulsifiers included but the sole preservative is caprylhydroxamic acid is a strong indicator that it’s main purpose in this product is as a preservative and hence should be added to the water phase.
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20% with regard to the water phase. Also, in combination with glycerol and a low pH, less might work.Say you’d have 50% water, 6-8% ethanol, and a few % glycerol at pH 4.5 should be enough to stop anything from growing (not killing any microbes but just stopping them from growing).
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I’m still playing around with pentylene glycol. Yes, it does sometimes seem to negatively impact emulsions, so does GMCY. Thanks for sharing your observations. I had the impression it were the other way round???I’m currently adding it ‘blindly’ to all my creations because I just like it and it is, theoretically, a good fit and great additional safety strategy aka hurdle in conjunction with levulinic and anisic acid (there may be stronger similar blends/boosters but I prefer its ‘naturalness’ and multi-functionality).Right now, it’s hard to tell what makes them hold of separate… I’m still in the phase of playing/messing around with new ingredients, nothing serious, just observing and learning by failure. I know, my approach isn’t strategically optimal because I use too much new stuff at once. Especially the polyglyceryl esters behave differently than what I’m used to and they are somewhat less forgiving than PEG derivatives and other pharma standards. Combining that with a ‘natural’ hurdle approach and poorly understood production processes such as d-phase emulsification is maybe too much to really get to know each ingredient better but it makes my hobby more interesting.
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You mention glycerol and petrolatum… these alongside many other common ingredients can serve as penetration enhancers, are likely to be considered ‘actives’, and penetration depth does matter with these.Every molecule (active or not) has its own requirements regarding how to enhance penetration. As an example: petroleum jelly will act as penetration enhancer for salicylic acid.Things also depend on your definition of ‘actives’ and ‘penetration enhancer’. Lecithin and ceramides can be considered actives especially if delivered deep enough into the skin. Therefore, they may profit from penetration enhancers (which won’t be solvents like DMI or PG) or penetration enhancing formulations. The cool thing about lecithin is that it can be formulated as liposomes which transforms this excipient into a penetration enhancer, not just for actives but also for itself (if you get what I mean).
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AFAIK it is anti-microbial and would suffice at high enough % though such high levels might not be feasible. Hence, I wouldn’t use it as sole preservative but rather in blends to boost other preservatives, for example such which don’t have 100% efficacy on their own.
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Suttocide A is by itself alkaline, around pH 9-11. Unlike at acidic pH, under alkaline conditions its decomposition to formaldehyde may not be complete. I couldn’t find any actual % but from what I’ve found it does decompose enough to do the job.
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SK influx does, according to Evnok, not contain water whilst the Ceramides by CLR list water as first ingredient… you do the maths
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Sunlight causes about 80% of skin ageing.In the EU, new and environmentally safer sunscreens are available. Some of these, although acting like chemical filters, also act like mineral sunscreens. The brand Ultrasun is an example and also offers combo versions with nano zinc oxide.Unfortunately/sadly, the US does not approve these environmentally friendlier ingredients yet.
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HERE you go :smiley:
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Depends on the type of extract (which solvent has been used to produce the extract).The listed additives probably wouldn’t hurt if you left them inside, they’re pretty standard in cosmetic formulations.
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10% borax? That likely kills everything (even more than it should). I hope you don’t use that brew on skin… Borax for private use has been banned in the EU for a reason . Sure, in certain countries like Brazil they still use it big times and give a sh@ç% that they pollute the Amazon.There are alternatives, you know? They may not be as versatile and cheap but they’re better for health and environment.
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Natural does contain the goodies and the badies… refined one is more or less purified, decolourised, deodorised, filtered, charcoal-stripped, solvent extracted, and/or distilled etc. It’s therefore colour- and odourless quite pure triglycerides which are more stable and serve less as bug food. Also, batch-to-batch variation is smaller. Nonetheless, it’s wise to add antioxidants to the product because those have been stripped as well.Natural virgin oils/butters have character and a lower impact on the environment whilst imparting a typical flavour and/or colour (this can be great or really terrible). They are richer in secondary constituents but these are more often claims than really perceivable, let alone ‘active’. Depending on the source, such an oil can but doesn’t have to be full of microbes, dust, dirt… and every time you get a new batch you’ll have to slightly tweak your formulation in order to get it as close as possible to the last batch.
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From what I could find out, Polawax GP-200 is a blend of cetearyl alcohol and PEG-20 stearate. Though fatty alcohols are not emulsifiers in the proper sense, their combination with certain o/w emulsifiers such as PEG-derivatives does act like a blend of two emulsifiers. In other words, you already use two and not one .