Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 10, 2020 at 2:36 pm in reply to: What preservatives do you use most often?

    DMDM Hydantoin

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 9, 2020 at 10:19 pm in reply to: Costing Ingredients

    @MaisR - You’ll have to add the shipping costs to the £/g (or £/L) but you’ll need to divide it over the whole shipment.

    Suppose you have 100g of an ingredient that costs £10/g.  (total = 100*10 = £1000)
    Shipping costs are £20.  £20/100g = £0.2/g

    So, now your ingredient cost is really £10.2/g

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 9, 2020 at 5:57 pm in reply to: Amino acids

    @ngarayeva001 - when something is a film former that may have an impact on the way the product feels. If this is something consumers notice then it may be important. But if consumers can’t tell, the ingredient doesn’t really matter.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 9, 2020 at 2:43 pm in reply to: What Ingredient would you change and why?

    It’s a cleanser.  Why are you including oils?  They simply make the cleanser part of your product less effective.  In fact, none of the following ingredients need to be in the formula.

    Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil,
    Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil,
    Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Seed Oil,
    Ormenis Multicaulis Oil,
    Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil,
    Carum Petroselinum (Parsley) Seed Oil
    Glycerin
    Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 6, 2020 at 4:23 pm in reply to: Facial wash separation

    I think 3% pearl agent is too high. That could lead to separation.  Also, salicylic acid is only soluble in water up to 0.25% so that may be separating out also.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 6, 2020 at 4:20 pm in reply to: Amino acids

    @Hanson25 - There are a couple answers to this question.

    1.  For many companies every “special” ingredient they add to their formula is just for marketing claims. In their skin care product they put an ineffective level of an antioxidant or hyaluronic acid or retinol or whatever ingredient is popular and talk about how beneficial the ingredient is in their marketing. Since consumers can’t really tell a difference in performance this strategy is effective and most profitable. 

    2.  Some companies look to the scientific literature and match the levels that published studies say were used and then claim some effect. So, they have a rationale that the added feature ingredient has some benefit. However, demonstrating a benefit from an ingredient in a laboratory controlled study is not the same thing as demonstrating a benefit under real-life conditions.  In cases like these the ingredients still may just have claims benefit and not provide any real cosmetic benefit. It is not in the product maker’s best interest to figure out if the ingredients actually work.

    The reality is that benefits that might be derived from feature ingredients are subtle and incremental at best. They also may take a long time to notice. The condition of your skin is complicated and based not only on the products you use but also on the environment you’re exposed to, stress levels and the diet you eat.

    Consumers are not good at noticing benefits so ALL of these “feature” ingredients, whether they have tiny effects or not, are mostly just added for the claims. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 6, 2020 at 2:26 pm in reply to: Amino acids

    Adding amino acids to hair care products is simply a marketing ploy. They will have zero noticeable effect.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 5, 2020 at 2:14 pm in reply to: review of shampoo hair formula

    I would recommend Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate since they work the best and are the least expensive. I’d also get rid of the Decyl Glucoside since it isn’t a particularly good surfactant for hair.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 4, 2020 at 3:44 am in reply to: Antioxidant preservative

    @emma1985 - it’s not banned in the EU.  You can get it with a prescription.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 4, 2020 at 12:39 am in reply to: review of shampoo hair formula

    SLSA is only soluble in water 3.5%. So, if you want a clear, stable system or to get it to fully dissolve, that is the maximum percentage you can use.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 4, 2020 at 12:31 am in reply to: Question about a Korean product

    I would guess only 1% Astragalus (and maybe not even astragalus).  In truth, you wouldn’t really have any way to distinguish this from brown water.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 3, 2020 at 7:22 pm in reply to: review of shampoo hair formula

    Ah, then your statement “…I add the SLSA until it is fully dissolved” is not correct.  If you don’t get a clear system, then the SLSA is not fully dissolved.

    Just for clarification…what do the initials SLSA stand for?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 3, 2020 at 6:26 pm in reply to: review of shampoo hair formula

    At what point in the process does it become non-transparent?

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 3, 2020 at 1:32 pm in reply to: Sign up for the Teamworks Raw Material Summit to learn the latest technologies in ingredients

    Here is a better version of the replay.  (You’ll be able to fast forward and rewind to watch what you want.)

    Teamworks replay

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 2, 2020 at 5:59 pm in reply to: Costing Ingredients

    The most important thing to do is to make sure you have all the units the same.

    If you want to know how much a bottle costs in terms of £/L then all the units should be converted to £/L.  

    If some of the units are £/g then you’ll need to convert that to £/L.  To do that, you are correct you will need the specific gravity of whatever material you are using.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    November 2, 2020 at 1:42 pm in reply to: Sign up for the Teamworks Raw Material Summit to learn the latest technologies in ingredients

    Thanks @Agate

    If anyone wanted to re-watch any of the sessions here are the links you’ll need.

    1. Morning - https://event.webinarjam.com/replay/51/1nwy0iy3cloiqpi1or
    2. Afternoon - https://event.webinarjam.com/go/replay/51/0vky9igwcxxfllf2
    3. Thickener track - https://event.webinarjam.com/go/replay/54/k64zrbz5s72u2s1

    This is an exact replication of what went on yesterday so you’ll see all the content, comments, and a couple of the flaws. But we wanted to get this to you as soon as we could.  This will be available for the next 2 weeks and then it will go away. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 28, 2020 at 2:00 am in reply to: Sign up for the Teamworks Raw Material Summit to learn the latest technologies in ingredients

    We are only 1 day away!

    We’ve already gotten over 2400 people signed up.  I think the room maximum is 2000 at any time but as long as everyone doesn’t join at the same time it will be fine.  You can sign up and attend whenever you like during the day or watch the replay afterwards.

    Register for the event here

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 27, 2020 at 12:04 pm in reply to: Practical Cosmetic Formulating Course

    Here is a list of all the cosmetic science programs around the world.
    There are a number of online courses but these aren’t really recognized in the industry as official “degrees.”  If that is important to you, you should look into one of the programs listed in that link.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 26, 2020 at 3:36 pm in reply to: Organic Formulation for a Dishwashing Liquid

    @Benz3ne - that would depend though on their market. In the US, COSMOS doesn’t mean much.  If you want to sell a product as “organic” you’ll have to comply with the USDA regulations for Organic Products. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 26, 2020 at 2:05 pm in reply to: Practical Cosmetic Formulating Course

    Hello @paigemsdavis - thanks for the questions.  There is no requirement to purchase any ingredients to successfully go through the course. When the course was created, it was geared more towards people who work in laboratories and have access to equipment and materials. Certainly, you can purchase those things to practice making formulas, but it is not a requirement.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 23, 2020 at 8:03 pm in reply to: Full Spectrum Preservation

    @suswang8 - It could also be that the phenoxyethanol is a preservative supplied with one of their ingredients so they don’t actually add it themselves.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 23, 2020 at 2:19 pm in reply to: Reducing stringiness but not viscosity in Shampoo

    I can’t really give you an answer on that because the ratio depends on a lot of factors including the composition of the materials you buy, the manufacturing conditions, the composition of the other ingredients in your system and your particular definition of “stringy.”

    You have to experiment. 

    Right now your ratio is about 12:2:1
    So, try 15:2:1
    Then try 9:2:1 
    And see what you get.

    Or try 12:2:2  then 12:2:0… etc.

    Formulating rarely has some simple answer. It’s why people still hire cosmetic chemists rather than just buying a recipe book.
     

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 23, 2020 at 11:49 am in reply to: Full Spectrum Preservation

    The EWG is not a science based organization, so their opinion related to ingredients should not be taken seriously.  That’s not to say that they are wrong in all cases. But they are not a source of reliable information.

    Better is to refer to the CIR report on ethylhexylglycerin.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 23, 2020 at 11:24 am in reply to: Reducing stringiness but not viscosity in Shampoo

    You’ll have to experiment with ratios of SLES : CAPB : Cocamide DEA

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 21, 2020 at 1:34 pm in reply to: Dos EGMS kill foam?

    Not really, although I suppose it might if you add too much.

    All you have to do is to look to the marketplace for examples. EGMS body washes (and shampoos) don’t foam significantly worse than clear formulas.

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