

OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 18, 2021 at 10:25 pm in reply to: What Percentage of surfactant is in solution of shampoo when we apply it to hair?Depends on how much water is in your hair when you apply it. I would guess you have 2/3 shampoo and 1/3 water ratio so that means about 10% surfactant.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 18, 2021 at 10:23 pm in reply to: Typical inclusion rate of Cholecalciferol / D3 in a cream or lotion@Graillotion - Perhaps I’m mistaken. It is simply a supplement so there wouldn’t be any drug restrictions.
I found it here and misread the entry.
https://medlineplus.gov/druginfo/meds/a620058.html -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 15, 2021 at 3:49 pm in reply to: The only soap you’ll ever needThe addition of the oil seems counter productive. I’m not sure you actually need it.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 15, 2021 at 3:46 pm in reply to: Is daily use of an SPF product recommended?UVA is responsible for most of the things that cause aging skin. e.g. collagen/elastin protein break down, melasma, etc.
While sunscreens do block most of the UV, they do not block all of the UV. So, there is still enough that gets through even if you are using sunscreen to produce all the vitamin D that you need.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 15, 2021 at 12:26 pm in reply to: Is daily use of an SPF product recommended?@Abdullah - fortified foods, plus there is not really good evidence that sunscreen use is correlated with vitamin D deficiency.
@DaveStone - I wear sunscreen if I’m going to be outside in the sun for a long time. But I don’t wear it all the time.
Sun damage is not a myth. Just look at the skin of people from Arizona or Florida vs people from Minnesota. If you’re not from the US these are sections of the country that are sunny (Arizona / Florida) and less sunny (Minnesota). People in sunny places have “leathery” looking skin in my opinion.
So, if you care about having skin that doesn’t look aged or weathered, wear sunscreen. Theoretically, sunscreen use should also protect against skin cancer. However, the data on this is much less convincing.
Sunscreens are not regularly added to moisturizers because it would make formulas more expensive without providing a benefit companies could claim. Also, the ingredients are drug actives (at least in the US).
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 14, 2021 at 8:14 pm in reply to: Does skin and scalp have positive charge or negative charge?Not exactly. You see solids like skin and hair don’t actually have a pH. Only solutions have a pH by definition. When people say hair or skin have a pH what they are really talking about is the isoelectric point.
Isoelectric point is the pH at which the hair will not migrate in an electric field.
The pH of the surrounding solution doesn’t actually change the positive or negative characteristics of the hair (or skin). It just says that if you want stuff to stick to your hair (or skin) having a positively charged ion in a lower pH solution is what you want to do.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 14, 2021 at 7:22 pm in reply to: Ingredient list. Why is this Kenra formula discontinued? any alternative ?@Bill_Toge - When I was at Alberto we had a product that made about $100,000 in yearly sales. We discontinued it because this wasn’t nearly enough to justify making it and other business opportunities seemed more appealing.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 14, 2021 at 5:42 pm in reply to: Ingredient list. Why is this Kenra formula discontinued? any alternative ?Products are discontinued for one main reason…people don’t buy enough of it
I don’t have an alternative to recommend but look for a product that contains
PEG-4, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
None of the other ingredients will have much impact on performance. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 14, 2021 at 5:39 pm in reply to: FDA eliminates Temporary Reg relief for SanitizersGuess my local brewery will have to stop making it.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 14, 2021 at 11:10 am in reply to: Does skin really breathe?@ngarayeva001 - the glove analogy breaks down because unlike skin, it is not constantly renewed.
So, it may be true that male and female skin is of different thickness, but the surface is constantly being removed and the lower layer is constantly replaced. In a system like this it is not obvious that thicker is better.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 13, 2021 at 2:32 pm in reply to: What does these percentages about silicone deposition in hair mean?My version haas 667 pages also.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 13, 2021 at 1:01 pm in reply to: What % is suggested for Oil based solutions?The way formulating works is that you take your best guess at an ingredient level. Once you get something that works, then you try making a batch with half as much. If that still works fine then you’ve optimized. If that doesn’t work quite as well, then you cut too much.
It’s an iterative process.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 13, 2021 at 12:45 pm in reply to: What does these percentages about silicone deposition in hair mean?I will echo @ketchito ‘s comment - don’t rely on supplier data. It is simply marketing information. They only show you data from studies that highlight the story they want to tell. They don’t show you data that conflicts with their story. Supplier studies are not science.
This isn’t to say that they are lying. It’s just that they are not attempting (as science does) to uncover what is true.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 13, 2021 at 12:42 pm in reply to: Does skin and scalp have positive charge or negative charge?@Abdullah - I can think of no reason it would be different than other skin.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 10:33 pm in reply to: What % is suggested for Oil based solutions?Seems like a reasonable amount to start. Did you try it? What did you find?
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 10:27 pm in reply to: How do they support this claim and what ingredient does it? (Up to 95% less hairfall)@Syl - Welcome to the wonderful world of cosmetic claims substantiation!
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 3:49 pm in reply to: How do they support this claim and what ingredient does it? (Up to 95% less hairfall)There are two things.
1. First they say “up to 95%” so that could mean 0 to 95%. It’s a pretty broad claim
2. It also depends on what they define as hairfall. They probably will say hair fall is hair breakage. Then they have a little asterisk where they likely say when used in combination with a conditioner. Then they do a robotic combing study. They count how many hairs break off with and without treatment and that works out to be up to 95% less breaking.
That’s how I would do it anyway.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 3:38 pm in reply to: Does skin and scalp have positive charge or negative charge?It’s a bit pedantic but it’s not exactly right to say hair has a negative charge. For example, you can cause a positive charge by rubbing your hair on something like a hat or balloon or something.
The isoelectric point of hair is negative which is why positively charged compounds stick to the surface better. The isoelectric point of skin is https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11166421/ is about pH 4.8 which would indicate that it too has an overall negative charge.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 12:10 pm in reply to: Is Derma-Rolling worth it?I’m not sure it has been determined that cell turnover results from any type of skin irritation, but it seems reasonable.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 3:27 am in reply to: Is Derma-Rolling worth it?It seems some positive data is available, but not overwhelmingly convincing.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1748681517302504
The authors conclude “ The current literature does show some methodological shortcomings, and further research is required to truly establish microneedling as an evidence-based therapeutic option for treating scars, wrinkles and other skin conditions.“
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 12, 2021 at 3:23 am in reply to: Hair Shampoo SeparationWhat’s the difference between this formula and your other formula that doesn’t separate?
Yes, increasing surfactant may prevent separation…or it may not. -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 11, 2021 at 8:41 pm in reply to: How many active projects should a Cosmetic Chemist have at a time?Good question. I think it depends on the contract manufacturer or company.
If you are making primarily new formulas, then each one will take a lot of time to develop (1 year at least). Now, that doesn’t mean you’ll be working on the same formula every day for a year but that does mean it will take that long to have a finished, stability tested formula.
If you are just taking a stock formula, changing color, fragrance, and extracts then it won’t take as long. Maybe just 4 months.
In any case, it seems reasonable that at most you could develop is
12 completely new formulas a year
52 formulas if you already have a starting formulaThat would be my guess. Making more than 2 batches a day is pushing it.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 11, 2021 at 2:56 pm in reply to: Is Derma-Rolling worth it?What convinces you that derma-rolling does anything?
What is it supposed to do? -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorOctober 11, 2021 at 2:42 pm in reply to: Why can’t collagen and elastin be permanently injected?@MarkBroussard - I suppose there are plastics you could inject that might not degrade in the body over time.