Forum Replies Created

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  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 30, 2017 at 12:39 pm in reply to: Amy limit to how much Retinol can be used?
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 30, 2017 at 2:27 am in reply to: Amy limit to how much Retinol can be used?

    Here is what the CIR has to say about Retinol (and Retinyl Palmitate).  Basically, it’s safe to use <1%.

    https://online.personalcarecouncil.org/ctfa-static/online/lists/cir-pdfs/pr160.pdf

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 27, 2017 at 4:02 pm in reply to: Sciences in Cosmetic Formulations

    I guess it is all in how you break these things out.

    Biology - Human physiology, Biochemistry, Dermatology, Toxicology

    Chemistry - Organic, Analytical, Quantitative Analysis, Physical Chemistry, Polymer science.

    Certainly Mathematics but I would say it’s not technically a science.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 25, 2017 at 5:24 pm in reply to: saponification spreadsheet

    You can send me the file via email and I can post it.  Or you can put the file up online somewhere and share a link to it.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 24, 2017 at 4:26 am in reply to: Still learning

    Some emulsion can become thicker over time, others get thinner. Still others are unchanged. You really haven’t provided enough information (such as the formula and ingredients) to give a more specific answer.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 17, 2017 at 4:23 pm in reply to: How do I know which chemist to choose?

    @Celeste - Only with personal interaction.  You have to talk to or otherwise communicate with them.  It’s a bit like interviewing someone for a job.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 13, 2017 at 11:20 pm in reply to: I hope he wasn’t a member of this forum

    Oh my!

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 4, 2017 at 10:02 pm in reply to: Shaving soap consisting of only two ingredients?

    The problem with answering this question is that you can’t leave the concept of cleansing and moisturizing out of the equation.  For example, soap is a cleansing ingredient. 

    Anything that lubricates will have some moisturizing effect.  But silicones would probably be the best choice for lubricating. Maybe a low molecular weight dimethicone?  This would also probably “soften” the hair too but using some oil might do a better job. Coconut oil perhaps.  Of course, that might be comedogenic so may not be the best idea.

    It’s tough to beat the standard shaving cream.

    water, stearic acid, myristic acid, potassium hydroxide, coconut acid, glycerin,triethanolaminefragrance and sodium hydroxide

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 4, 2017 at 6:17 pm in reply to: For those who think the FDA isn’t watching ingredient labels…

    “love” - lol

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 3, 2017 at 2:35 pm in reply to: How long a moisturizer should maintain moisture in skin

    No, that’s not a good assumption.  TEWL measurements are highly variable. It can be 50% or 25% or 5%. It really depends on too many unknown factors. Air flow, skin movement, genetics…etc.

    The reality is that this science is complicated and not very well understood. The genetic variability of people’s skin makes it difficult to predict.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 3, 2017 at 2:30 pm in reply to: this drug has the side effect of growing your eyelashes

    Plus if it could be done, it would have already been done. Scientists have known about this technology for decades.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 3, 2017 at 2:28 pm in reply to: General questions

    @luukheum - These aren’t exactly general questions and each one should really be a discussion by themselves.  Here are some quick answers. If you want a more thorough discussion of any of them, make it a separate discussion.

    1.  No, there is no evidence they increase aging. There is little evidence they decrease aging either. Most of these ingredients as used in cosmetics are marketing stories only.

    2.  This is an unproven hypothesis. 

    3.  Oils don’t actually moisturize. The are nonpolar and they blend with the nonpolar elements of the outer skin. They soften but only have minimal moisturizing effects. Petrolatum actually creates a barrier film which doesn’t allow water to escape the skin. This causes a build-up in the outer layers of skin and is responsible for the moisturization effect. 

    4.  A couple hours.  What do you want the squalene to help with?  Maximum effect of petrolatum would depend on many factors including the condition of your own skin, your genetics, the environment surrounding you, your heart rate, level of moisture, etc. There are too many factors to give an answer. Generally, leaving it on longer will have a greater effect until you reach the maximum which I would guess would vary from 30 min to a few hours.

    5.  There are only slight differences. The effectiveness of a moisturizer depends on your skin. There is no perfect ingredient/moisturizer. Petrolatum scores highest for TEWL

    6.  Maybe. But it’s unlikely you’d notice any difference.

    7.  I shave with warm water which works fine enough for me. It’s really a personal preference.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 2, 2017 at 4:31 pm in reply to: How long a moisturizer should maintain moisture in skin

    @luukheum - there are way too many variables to make an assertion like that.  When I was working on the St. Ives 24 hr lotion we set up the following test.

    1. Take baseline readings for TEWL (skin conductance actually)
    2.  Apply lotion then take readings after 10 min.  Levels increase
    3.  Take readings throughout the day with subjects who stayed in a controlled environment room (humidity & temp).
    4.  Take readings the next day to see if TEWL was higher than baseline.  For the 24 hour lotion it was, although only slightly.

    But under real life conditions, since skin moisturization depends so heavily on atmospheric & biologic conditions, it would be tough to say exactly how long you’d have measurable moisturization.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 2, 2017 at 11:53 am in reply to: How long a moisturizer should maintain moisture in skin

    As long as your consumers want it to.

    When I worked on the St. Ives brand people were impressed with the claim “24 hour moisturization”

    Realistically, a few hours is all you can expect.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 2, 2017 at 11:52 am in reply to: Gems and stones in skincare

    @Sabah - you should start a new discussion if you want your question answered.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    October 1, 2017 at 9:44 pm in reply to: Lotions with ethyl alcohol as preservative &Quillaja extract as emulsifier

    The other reason you don’t see more companies using alcohol as a preservative is because of VOC regulations.

    https://www.arb.ca.gov/consprod/regs/2015/article_2_final_1-22-15.pdf

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 29, 2017 at 5:15 pm in reply to: 38 out of 60 shampoos found to contain harmful manufacturing solvent in tests by Hong Kong consumer

    @Pete - It’s good to have Watchdogs as long as they are not Fearmongers who lose credibility. The presence of 1,4 dioxane says nothing about the relative safety of the product.  It is not a carcinogen at the levels found in these shampoos.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 29, 2017 at 5:09 pm in reply to: The fragile salt curve

    Yes, this is correct. Salt thickening is the result of the composition and structure of the detergent micelles. Anything that you add to change the micelles will change whether salt can thicken the system or not.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 7:44 pm in reply to: How long does it take for a pomade to reach its full hardness?

    This may be ingredient source and manufacturing process dependent. You can easily find out by making a batch or two and taking measurements over time. 

    There are a lot of unknowns in the cosmetic industry and a lot of information that people believe that is probably not true. Many things just haven’t been rigorously tested. 

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 7:39 pm in reply to: Long term lotion stability

    Any blend of non compatible materials like oil and water that is stablized through the use of surfactants (also called emulsifiers) is an emulsion system.

    Most lotions would be considered emulsions.  The emulsion system is the emulsifiers & suspending agents that keep it stable.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 7:35 pm in reply to: Natural Shampoo ingredients

    @Bobzchemist - I’ve found that among some groups of “makers” they have the belief (and have gotten the advice from their experts) that INCI names are not required but rather common names are.

    @MarkBroussard:D

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 1:14 pm in reply to: Natural Shampoo ingredients

    Also, none of these ingredients will have any noticeable impact on product performance.

    Panthenol(natural), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil(Natural),  Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract(natural), Hydrolyzed Milk Protein(Natural), Keratin Amino Acids(Natural)

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 4:35 am in reply to: Deep conditioning and cones

    It might. I just doubt you will be able to notice any difference.  This is something that could be measured but I just think it would be extremely difficult to notice any difference.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 4:30 am in reply to: Long term lotion stability

    I’d agree.  Carbomer is the way to go.

  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    September 26, 2017 at 3:00 am in reply to: Ultraviolet glass vs. Amber, Green, Blue or Clear Colour Bottles

    Maybe Vitamin C?  Or ingredients in the fragrance that could interact with the plasticizers in the plastic bottles.

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