

OldPerry
Forum Replies Created
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 17, 2018 at 9:59 pm in reply to: Surfactant suppliersEach batch should be within the set specifications for each characteristics.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 17, 2018 at 3:15 pm in reply to: Advise me on my shampoo formulation@Sebina - DEA compounds as used in cosmetics are not dangerous. The industry moved away from using them in the late 1990’s because of chemical fearmongering. But a review of the toxicology / safety data related to these products can be summed up by the experts…
“The expert panel concluded that these Diethanolamines are safe when used as formulated to be non-irritating…”
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qg6g8p3bdadequr/DEA-ingredients.pdf?dl=0
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2018 at 10:05 pm in reply to: what improvement you suggest for that shampooYou have too much salt, over 2% is pretty high.
Your ratio of SLES and CAPB is off. Should be a 4:1 ratio (in terms of active level).
Olive oil is going to depress your foam a bit.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2018 at 2:18 pm in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.@jeremien - do you have any links to papers he might have published on the subject?
I did a Google Scholar search of published research and didn’t find anything related to demonstrating that topical application of ceramides was a superior treatment to petrolatum.
https://scholar.google.com/scholar?q=Peter+Elias+ceramide&hl=en&as_sdt=1,14&as_vis=1
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2018 at 1:32 pm in reply to: The Real Value Of Stability Testing In “Modern” TimesI think there remains value in doing traditional stability tests.
While you are correct that the technology exists in the distribution chain that could keep product exposure to varied temperatures more controlled, this doesn’t happen in real life for the vast majority of personal care products.
And this doesn’t even take into consideration what each consumer is going to do with their product once they buy it.
The philosophy of stability testing is to ensure your product remains safe under the most extreme conditions it might potentially be exposed to.
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You can make a shampoo with a surfactant (e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate) and a small amount of lye (e.g. sodium hydroxide) to adjust pH.
But if you are wondering if you can make a good shampoo out of a soap, the answer is no.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 14, 2018 at 1:22 pm in reply to: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerineWithout doing a microbial test, you can’t really know. It depends on how clean your ingredients were, your manufacturing conditions, your packaging, storage conditions, etc. But if it passes a preservative efficacy test, it could last up to a year.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 13, 2018 at 1:25 pm in reply to: MAKE SHAMPOO WITH BAR BLACK SOAP@Fekher - it’s just not accurate and reliable enough. If you are following GMP then pH paper should not be used.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 13, 2018 at 12:51 pm in reply to: vegan, 100% natural oil@savetheplanetearth - jojoba oil is a mixture of chemicals. It only contains chemicals.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 13, 2018 at 12:19 pm in reply to: shimmer spray suspensionIt looks like your polymer level is too low for proper suspending.
https://www.stobec.com/DATA/PRODUIT/2175~v~data-sheet.pdfThe supplier recommends 8 - 10%. You could probably experiment with adding a small amount of salt to reduce the viscosity.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 13, 2018 at 12:03 pm in reply to: MAKE SHAMPOO WITH BAR BLACK SOAP@Fekher - quality control measures like viscosity should not be left to users for evaluation. And pH paper should not be relied on as a measure for pH. Maybe it works for someone making soap as a hobby in their kitchen but no serious formulator would use pH paper for measuring pH.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 9:14 pm in reply to: Ain’t 1% or 2% EDTA too much?I’m not sure but it seems like in laundry detergent you have a relatively small amount of product diluted by a large amount of water. You’ll probably need a good slug of EDTA to deal with the metal ions in the laundry water.
In cosmetics chelating agents are added to tie up the metal ions in the formula and maybe have a small effect on the water while using the product. In laundry products, the chelators are a part of the cleaning process. At least that’s my guess.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 9:11 pm in reply to: Perfumed Body creamYes, it could be due to the perfume.
For stability testing, see this. https://chemistscorner.com/how-to-stability-test-a-cosmetic-formula/
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 9:09 pm in reply to: MAKE SHAMPOO WITH BAR BLACK SOAPI’ll just point out that soap makes a terrible shampoo. This is why sulfates & other detergents were created.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 2:59 pm in reply to: My products caused allergic reaction. Please help!Overall, it looks like a fine enough formula. A bit more complicated with many more ingredients than I would use (for example, it seems pointless to use Xanthan Gum & Sodium Carbomer & Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer when one would do) But there is nothing glaringly wrong with it.
Just remember, the more ingredients you use the higher the chance that something in it will cause an allergic reaction.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 2:04 pm in reply to: My products caused allergic reaction. Please help!The fact that there was no adverse reaction in the past is not a guarantee that there won’t be an adverse reaction in the future. Many substances take multiple exposures before a reaction to them occur.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 2:03 pm in reply to: My products caused allergic reaction. Please help!Bisabolol is not the most likely but there have been cases - https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20199429
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 12:48 pm in reply to: No Rinse FoamI’ll just point out that the general notion of “no surfactants in leave on products” is not a good one to follow.
Every emulsifier is a surfactant.
Almost every skin cream & moisturizer that is left on skin has a surfactant in it.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 12:42 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serumReviews on the Internet are not reliable information.
Anyone can write anything about anything on the Internet.
Of course Cosrx is going to have positive reviews on their website. They are in business to get people to buy their product. That doesn’t mean what you see posted is true.
Anyway, I don’t know what you mean by “boost its efficacy”. What specifically is the serum supposed to be doing and what do you want to “boost”?
If you are talking about skin lightening, no incorporating ferulic acid and vitamin E will not make it lighten skin
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 12:38 pm in reply to: My products caused allergic reaction. Please help!Well, it could be a lot of things. Any individual can develop an allergic reaction to pretty much anything (even water).
But my suspects would be…
Ubiquinone
BisabololRosa Canina Fruit OilCamellia Kissi Seed OilSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oi
Licorice extract -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 12, 2018 at 12:14 pm in reply to: Vitamin c serumWhat is your question?
I can say that none of the extracts listed in this formula are doing anything. If you got rid of all of them you wouldn’t notice.
I also doubt the product does anything at all except maybe moisturize the skin for a few moments.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 11, 2018 at 9:46 pm in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.@Sibech - ah, I didn’t mean to suggest the researchers weren’t competent. I’m certain they diligently followed their protocols & for what they were trying to prove, they showed some directional differences.
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OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 11, 2018 at 7:42 pm in reply to: Nanotechnology in skincare?@SJane, @ngarayeva001, @Microformulation - There is no prohibition on hashtags on this forum. Of course, if they become annoying we might start removing them but it’s not a problem at the moment.
I’m curious what is meant by “the terms and agreement section” on this forum. Where was this found? -
OldPerry
Professional Chemist / FormulatorSeptember 11, 2018 at 1:26 pm in reply to: Please help a dummy understand formulating with ceramides.@ngarayeva001 - Interesting paper. Here is a link to the full thing.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yev0dt4nra8b6v/sls-barrier-research.pdf?dl=0
But this is a good example of what is wrong with this type of research. The researchers are trying to answer the question, what effects (if any) do topically applied ceramides have on skin? But consumers really want to know, what should I apply to my skin that will make it look & feel the best? This research doesn’t answer the main question consumers are interested in.
There are also some obvious problems with this research though.
First, the control emulsion is not a skin moisturizer. The research might conclude that ceramides improve skin barrier repair but this doesn’t say anything about how that compares to a standard moisturizer that uses petrolatum. This is really what a product user would want to know.
Second, they used 12 subjects. You can’t make any general conclusions from a 12 subject study.
Third, this was done on women aged 22 - 24 who’s skin is not representative of consumers who would be using ceramides in skin care.
Fourth, the results are not dramatic.
And I’ll also add that having done research like this I know how difficult it is to get consistent measurements of TEWL so I remain highly skeptical of small studies that aren’t repeated.
All this is to say is that this type of research is complicated & it’s difficult to understand what it means in the long run. If ceramides are an incredible anti-aging ingredient, this research certainly doesn’t show that.