[Paprik]

Low HLB emulsifier. 

[Paprik]

I checked some Datasheets for you.
Btw. @Pattsi is totally right. 

pH is to be above 6.5. It’s water soluble. Do not expose to heat.
Usage:
0.2 - 2% - in daily skin care
0.2 - 1% - in sun care 
3% in lightening products. 

Add chelating agent, good to add vitamin E and you can add other forms (e.g. ascorbic acid) of Vit C.

For this amount of lipid you would need probably an emulsifier. If you stick to around 3%, the 2% Siligel could tolerate that. Or add some solubiliser.

Geogard 221 is active between 2 - 7. As you need the product to be around 7, is it not suitable preservative. 

[Paprik]

@Pattsi, what she said.

What is actually happening is, every drop of an oil is being “surrounded” by the solubiliser. It’s called a micelle. So you can imagine need much more solubiliser than oil. 

Some oils are harder to solubilise, some are easier. That is why we can’t give you the exact amount of solubiliser you will need. 

Don’t forget, the method is crucial. 

[Paprik]

Ups, sorry, I misunderstood your question. I thought you are looking for foaming surfactants. (Not like emulsifiers). Soapy makes much more sense to me now  

[Paprik]

Belinda from IPCS likes to add them at the end.
I personally add them into water phase too.  

[Paprik]

Do I understand correctly you want to have an emulsifier free serum with 10% lipids?
You need to realise that around 10% lipid is being used it normal lotion/cream formulas. 

To solubilise 10% of a lipid you would need (depending on the type of oil etc..) around 50% of solubiliser. As usually it takes 5:1 ratio. Sometimes even 10:1. (1:1 if you are lucky). So imagine it in a formula. 

Usually more than 5% of solubiliser feels sticky on the skin. 

So if you lower the oils (all oils - including antioxidant, fragrance etc) to a normal level, you need to solubilise it first in P-80. Basically mix those two properly (micelles are formed) and then, in small amounts add that solubilised lipid into the water phase and wait everytime until solution clears. Some might not finish as crystal clear at all tho. 

Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

I’m with @PhilGeis. LG+ should be slightly viscous clear liquid, this seems to be off and I would not trust it. 

[Paprik]

To name a few - 
Sodium Coco Sulfate,
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

[Paprik]

They sell this ingredient at PureNature.co.nz. They recommend up to 3%. 
However, I believe it’s water soluble. So in my opinion not suitable in balm.

[Paprik]

I’ve just read my comment and  I didn’t write what I thought I did. I wanted to say : there are not many limitations. And that is why I’ve included the pic Sorry for the confusion. 

[Paprik]

I’ve looked at many Datasheets now and it seems there are limitations. 

Also found this:

However, personally, I would only use it in wash off formulas. And definitely not on body leave-on products. But that’s my opinion.  

[Paprik]

I believe @Graillotion was dealing with this some time ago? 

- Put the lipid neat on your hand or face and see how it “shines”. And choose the less “shiny” ones.
- Check for reflective index (I believe that’s how it’s called).
- Try different emulsifiers - e.g. Montanov 202 has mattifying properties for example.

[Paprik]

You are missing stabilising agent/rheology modifier - Try hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
What is the final pH of the product?

Other points:
Why do you have Cocamidopropyl betaine in your formula? Should it add some foam?
You are missing antioxidant for the lipids.
Recommended input of Geogard ECT is 0.6 - 1.0%. Stick to the maximum limit please. 

[Paprik]

The formula has more issues than “condensation”.

1. Can you tell me how did you measure the pH?

2. You are using lipids that go rancid very easily, do you think 0.1% of an antioxidant will make sure the product will be fine for more then couple of months? 

3. Not sure why are you using emulsifier, if you are not creating any type of emulsion? 

Finally, what you are experiencing is (most likely) syneresis - Please check polarity of all lipids. I believe Squalane is non (or low) polar lipid, that could cause the issue. Try to remove it, update the formula and try again. 
(you are not supposed to mix polar and non-polar lipids together)

Hope that helps.

[Paprik]

Hello,

I don’t think you understood correctly the meaning of this forum. We are helping people to sort formulation issues or discuss things. Not to really teach others. 
Many of us spent hours and thousands of dollars for your education and this seems way to easy to come and ask “How can I formulate this and that”. 
Try to do some research, try to do some products and if it doesn’t work, come back, let us know what seems to be the issue and we can try to help you solve it. 

[Paprik]

Would be maybe good to mention where are you from?  

[Paprik]

Iwana said:

How to make my lotion less greasy

Formulation
Water 73
Butter 7.58
Oil 7.58
E. wax 4.8
Steric acid 3.86
Frag 1.51
Vit E 0.75
Preservative 0.9

I you have any  suggestion please do message.

As Perry said, and also you can improve the feeling by using some light esters such as coco caprylate.

[Paprik]

[Paprik]

I also think it’s to prevent stronger irritation? Wet skin allows product to penetrate deeper. This might cause some irritation to some skins. ?

[Paprik]

How long would you keep the iced tea in the fridge? One, two days? That’s cool. If you drink it, your stomach acids will destroy any microorganism. If you leave it for a week, I don’t think you would drink that.  

If you leave a toner for one two days in a fridge, you might not get any microbial growth, but you might. So if you want, you can use it on YOUR skin and see. 
Unfortunately on your skin there is no (hydrochloride acid) stomach acids to destroy any pathogens. 

We can’t stress enough how much preservatives are important.

[Paprik]

Have you thought about Camphor? 

Also, I think you can still incorporate some menthol into your formula. Slightly heat the water with the crystals and gel after. This should stabilize this small input.

[Paprik]

Abir95 said:

Thank you, i asked cus we see all the time commercial moisturizing shampoos based on Shea butter for dry hair and curly hair 

That’s simple marketing mate. They basically add Shea butter in 0.1% and can claim it’s present in the product. No benefits from it tho. You can always add a bit of Polyquat and it will leave the hair with better feel after wash.  

[Paprik]

I would simply stick to Perry’s answer: No.

(Although, I’ve got one video for you  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPRTLllYADU )

[Paprik]

Emulsifier makes an emulsion ~ lotion, cream. 
Solubilizer - alloys you to solubilize a low input of oil in water based product  and keep it clear ~ essential oil in a toner
Cosolvent (solvent) - dissolves an ingredient ~ niacinamide in water.

If you want to do a toner, you will need a solubilizer (water is a solvent). 

Easy enough to google it. 

[Paprik]

Are you just using fragrance or essential oils? 

If you are using essential oils, you should have strong body and base notes. 

If you are using a fragrance, you need to contact your fragrance house and tell them you are looking for something that will linger after wash off.