[Paprik]

1. You do not have a proper emulsifier. Stearic acid would work only as a thickener without using a base to neutralise it. Cetearyl alcohol is also a thickener/co-emulsifier.

You build viscosity with waxy materials - 4% in total will not do much.

2. XG seems to be on the higher input. Depends on the grade, but 0.2-0.4% is usually a good starting range.

3. 0.6% of a fragrance might be too much and it can also break your “emulsion” and lower viscosity.

4. I do not see any preservative!

[Paprik]

I would suggest you to write a full formula, prepare a sample and come back to us with issues.

[Paprik]

Sepimax Zen

[Paprik]

Not really. And you would be increasing potential irritation from the surfactants.

Prepare a hair tonic and include it in it.

[Paprik]

0.001% for marketing purposes.

It is water a soluable ingredient -> most of it will be washed off to the drain.

[Paprik]

I believe Cocamidopropyl Betaine also helps to improve SCI solubility in water. Try to add a little, 🙂 Good luck.

[Paprik]

I also vote Cetyl Alcohol is the line.

[Paprik]

Opacifier - PEG-150 Distearate, for example, suits surfactant systems.

[Paprik]

If you want a proper answer you will need to list inputs of all ingredients. In percentages. And final pH.

ASM seems ok at 6 for a facial product.

What I can say now is,

1. that you can remove Zinc PCA, Niacinamide, Propanediol and Glycerin, extract. Or keep it at 0.1% just for marketing. It basically doesn’t do much, if at all. All of it is water soluble and it gets washed away. Cleanser is suppose to clean/remove, not to add. Save those for leave on products.

2. Add robust preservative, potassium sorbate is not enough. Use Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5% for you own safety.

3. If you are using essential oil you will need an antioxidant. Better to use fragrance. The higher input of lipids in surfactant systems the higher changes of instability and also reducing effectiveness of the surfactants (as they are busy taking care of the lipid in your product).

[Paprik]

There are many! If you’re looking for best performance vs price then Glycerin is the winner.

Propanediol - also a good one, without tackiness/stickiness

Sodium PCA - expensive

Niacinamide - should help with hydration and good marketing.

Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, …. Just google it 🙂

• This reply was modified 7 months, 2 weeks ago by  Paprik.

[Paprik]

Have you looked into Sepigel 305?

[Paprik]

Yeah, agree with Grail. You non-ionic emulsifier.

I also like Polawax GP200 (Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-20 Stearate). It tolerates high and low pH. Builds nice viscosity.

[Paprik]

Hi Perry, will there be replay available, please?

[Paprik]

Please double check limits for ingredients [Germal plus for example]

[Paprik]

Looking at the ingredient and its INCI, it is oil soluble and it is an antioxidant.

It does not have pH as there is not water present.

If you’re asking what pH to formulate it within, a quick google search told me 3 - 11.

It is being used in face, body and hair products.

[Paprik]

Just to confirm what @Graillotion said.

The oil is continuous phase and tiny water droplets are suspended in it. So only every now and then the tiny small droplets hit the probe of your pH meter = not enough, not accurate.

As suggested, adjust the pH of you water phase before adding into oil phase. No further testing needed/required/can be done.

[Paprik]

I started to add my gum (Xanthan) into oil phase now.

Once I have my formula and know how much, it is easier to disperse it in oil. Also easier to heat water-thin water, not risking any burns if it is too thick.

[Paprik]

Hey buddy, thanks for the answer 🙂

I do not have SLES.
Any way how to improve it? (Will also google it and do some research).

• This reply was modified 1 month ago by  Paprik.

[Paprik]

Hello @ketchito , I am gonna jump here and ask about that precipitation if I may 🙂 . I did my sample and put it in a fridge. Over time (hours to day I think) it started to form these solid pieces. After, it completely solidified.

It is very basic formula - 8% Sodium coco sulfate, 3% cocabetaine, 3% coco gluside, 0.2% GHPTC (I add that at the very beginning, mix for for some to disperse, acidify, mix for 20 minutes), chelating agent, after non ionic, ampho and anionic. Heat, mix, cool, pH adjust and add salt, presertive, fragrance and colour.

When removed from the fridge it turns back to nice liquid.

Any thoughts? Thank you 🙂

• This reply was modified 1 month ago by  Paprik.

[Paprik]

Hi Perry,

looks like I missed this one and did not register. Weird.

Could you still send me the link once available, pretty please?

[Paprik]

I would say you could add with other humectants before Zen. Don’t forget preservative so it is protected during hydration.

[Paprik]

I like to add chelating agent at the beginning, but saw a lot of companies/people adding it in cooldown phase. As long as they are heat tolerant it is up to you 🙂

[Paprik]

If you want to become good, you will need “waste” some ingredients.

In the end it is not really wasting. You are gaining experiences with each formula.

Your formula is already too complex. You should really start slow with a few ingredients, learn how they behave, what they can achieve, what they can handle, what destroys them, how to process them correctly, regulatory limits, etc .. It takes time!

If you put 15 ingredients in you will never know what caused what in case there is a instability or other issue.

Start with good old water as hydrosol is expensive and can mask some smells.

Those would be my tips for now. Happy formulating 🙂

[Paprik]

Usage for Germall Plus (powder) is 0.05 - 0.2%.

For Liquid Germall Plus it is up to 0.5%.

I have never worked with the powder form, so cannot say how good it is. And depending where you live, Liquid Germall Plus is not allowed in body products in EU, but is in USA. And cannot be used in aerosols in USA, but can in EU. I believe. 😀 It is always better to double check and confirm. 🙂

[Paprik]

Hi, I thought you said you are making WATER IN OIL emulsion.

So I would assume that water input would be much lower?

If you have 60% of water you are most likely making OIL IN WATER emulsion. (Unless you are making High internal phase emulsion. ?)