ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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I don’t want to disappoint you about HA but it’s added at a tiny amount to the majority of commercial products. It’s very expensive and you can achieve the same level of moisturization with other humectants (glycerin, sodium pca, sodium lactate, propanediol etc.)
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Everything listed above is available at lotioncrafter.
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Waterphase:
Aqua deionised = 1- sum (all ingredients below)
disodium EDTA - .2%
glycerin - 3%
ceramides and cholesterol complex - 3%
HA low weight- .5%
germaben II- 1%
oil phase:
cyclomethicone - 2%
emulthix (aka viscoptima) 2.5%
EL40 - 1.5%Process: mix water and oil phase separately, then combine.
the missing link was cold process emulsifier. The reason why I chose emulthix: sodium polyacrylate and silicones. Easy to work and good slip (especially combined with silicones), great viscosity.
your benchmark uses ceramides complex as active. You can add apple stem cells, but I would prefer ceramides. Both are fairy dust though.
You should change preservative. You are making it at home and need a reliable system.
Keep HA HMW for other projects. You don’t need it here.
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Can you share the benchmark product. I am sorry for tons of questions but you have a list of ingredients some of which are great, other are frankly not so great and all together they won’t make a gel moisturizer.
Decyl glucoside is a surfactant. It’s for foaming products, % are wrong, you have a great crosslinked silicone but it’s not a thickener, and I don’t understand what’s apple essense, is it a fragranced water?
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Please explain what exactly you are trying to make? A serum? What properties it should have?
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chemicalmatt said:I guess they think it remoisturizes or something? Not while it is flowing down the shower drain. Remoisturizes sewer cockroaches, then?
@chemicalmatt, you persuaded me
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1) Tetrasodium EDTA is used for clear products and basic products (above 7). Disodium EDTA is a stronger chelator and used in acidic products. So, if you are formulating a surfactant with pH >7 and you want it to be transparent use Tetrasodium.
2) not competent in this area.
3) Parabens are used with various surfactants.
4) Germaben II that consists of: Propylparaben, methylparaben, diazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, has effective pH range of 3-7.5. It’s temperature sensitive and should be added to the cool down phase. -
Option for lazy: makingcosmetics.com => sections W/O emulsifiers and O/W emulsifiers
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@em88,
https://www.makingcosmetics.com/GelMaker-EMU_p_119.html
INCI Name: Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80
It is very easy to use and good emulsifier. Great texture. It is as electrolytes resistant as sodium polyacrylate though. I still think it’s a good product. -
I don’t have an idea if something is preserved, but if I see a mold on the surface I clearly know it’s not. That was the reason why I brought up my experience with Euxyl. If not sure add parabens. If someone has a chance to send a sample for a test multiple times, it’s definitely better to do it.
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Polyquats can be added to anionic products, but centrimonium chloride will either make it separate or causes water insoluble precipitate as Perry mentioned. Glucosides don’t provide the best feel for hair. I would recommend adding CAPB to make it better. And Cocamide DEA will help with thickening. If you add polyquat 10 and cocamide DEA you can skip sclerotium gum and glycerin.
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I read that microbial tests from suppliers like lotioncrafter are far from being accurate.
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@em88, the most robust polymers I have experience with are Sepimax Zen and Sodium Polyacrylate. They both lose viscosity even with low level of Sodim PCA. Do you know any polymer that doesn’t?
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Well, it makes no sense to add chelator to the product I mentioned above. It has 10% of clay. It will overwhealm EDTA. I can’t add glycols either because it’s a gommage. I need it to peel off. Glycols work as humectants and the product will never become dry enough to peel it off (I tried propylene, butylene and not glycol but glycerin). All I am saing Euxyl 9010 can’t be considered broad spectrum compaing with preservatives like Germaben II and Phenonip. It is particularly weak against the mold.
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I managed to grow (unintentionally of course) an impressive colony of dark grey mold on the product preserved by 1% euxyl 9010.
I admit it contained 10% of kaolin that is no easy to preserve, but Germaben II did well with the same product (4 months, no visible mold). So, I would not rely on euxyl 9010 for every product. -
Sodium PCA /Sodium Lactate + polymers =>goodbye viscosity.
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Euxyl 9010 is used at 1%.10% out of 1% is Ethylhexylglycerin. Can 0.1% of Ethylhexylglycerin provide reasonable protection from the mold? In this case, what is the reason to create a version with Benzyl Alcohol that is known to be active against mold?
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@justa_pinch, tried to make a lip balm (I am terrible at lip balms) with shea butter. Crystalized badly. The same formula worked when I reduced its amount to 5%. It was a simple lip balm: beeswax, candelilla wax, almond oil, and shea butter.
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@vjay, phenoxyethanol doesn’t protect from the mold. You can’t use it as the only preservative, you should pair with other preservatives.
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@Dtdang, I understand that you like vegetable oils and there is nothing wrong with it. But try emollients other than veg oils just for the sake of experiment. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate + Caprylic/Capryc Triglycerides + a little bit of Petrolatum if you wish (it’s heavier than shea butter) for a face product for example. I think you will be surprised.
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It happens when you use too much of cocoa butter (at least this is my experience).
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@Doreen, they found a new victim.
https://helloglow.co/ingredients-to-avoid-in-makeup-and-skincare-products/
Retinol causes cancer now
I guess I will die soon. -
I feel for them. I am caucasian but like to be as pale as possible love my retinol, alpha arbutin, vitamin C in all shapes and forms and and never leave home without a sunscreen (even in winter in London) but that lady is suffering of discoloration caused by some outrageous amount of hydroquinone. Probably something as crazy as 20%. It’s banned in most of European countries for a good reason.
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This is awful. I wonder if it’s hydroquinone in some outrageous concentrations or something else.