

ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 28, 2019 at 6:18 pm in reply to: How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?Cetearyl alcohol or add more stearic acid. Polyethylene is an option as well, but make sure it’s a low melting point one.
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Depending on the process I add 2-3% more water as it will be inevitably evaporate. You should add water the lost water back.
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Milk frother is the worst tool that can be used to make an emulsion. Even a fork is better in some cases. It doesn’t introduce enough shear but incorporates tons of air. Because it’s function is to create foam. From what you listed stick blender is the most appropriate. Get bosh with small attachment if you want to make small batches.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 28, 2019 at 6:35 am in reply to: How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?It’s appied using cotton pad. You don’t need it to foam.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 6:16 pm in reply to: Please Help - Severe Cloudiness In Polymer Phase of Styling Gel PrototypeI used this in my formula:
https://www.makingcosmetics.com/HairFix-Powder_p_1128.html
Sorry I don’t know much about large suppliers. -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 5:38 pm in reply to: Please Help - Severe Cloudiness In Polymer Phase of Styling Gel PrototypeBe really careful with makingcosmetics. They rename everything and INCI name isn’t always an answer because different products might have the same INCI.
I figured what they call GelMaker PH is actually Sepimax Zen by Seppic and GelMaker RHEO is ViscOptima by Croda. -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 4:34 pm in reply to: How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?I have seen many commercial products with two chambers. Old version of the double serum by clarins is the first one that comes to my mind. I suppose this type of product requires a specialised solution where water and oil are being mixed inside of the pump. Otherwise it won’t be practicle and you will end up with a cotton pad half of which is soaked with cyclomethicone and another half with water. Proper mixing isn’t crucial for serums as they mixed during application.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 12:45 pm in reply to: Please Help - Severe Cloudiness In Polymer Phase of Styling Gel PrototypeINCI % Aqua 89.7% Tetrasodium
EDTA0.2% PVP 3.0% Carbomer 980 0.5% VP/VA
Copolymer4.0% TEA 0.1% PEG-8
Dimethicone1.5% Preservative 1.0% All ingredients are from makingcosmetics (except for Tetrasodium EDTA but they should have it). It’s a quite process dependent formula. PVP, VP/VA Copolymer and Carbomer 980 should be hydrated in separate beakers. VP/VA needs heating (50-60C). Minimum stirring. I think that GelMaker Powder should do the job as well but I suspect that it will lead to lower viscosity of the final product (it’s less “fluffy” than carbomer 980).
I hope it’s helpful. -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 6:47 am in reply to: Please Help - Severe Cloudiness In Polymer Phase of Styling Gel PrototypeI have one well working prototype made from makingcosmetics products. It’s crystal clear (has some bubbles but it’s the process) extra strong hold gel. I will find the formula later today.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 27, 2019 at 6:42 am in reply to: Please Help - Severe Cloudiness In Polymer Phase of Styling Gel PrototypeCould be two things: 1) disodium edta 2) acrylates copolymer. You need Tetrasodium EDTA for clear product not disodium. I believe that actylates Copolymer that makingcosmetics have is for surfactants. Makingcosmetics rename everything and it’s impossible to find out brand name in most cases, which isn’t helpful. I suspect that gelmaker powder that they sell is actually ultrez 20 but I cannot know for sure. Which gelmaker did you order?
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 11:07 pm in reply to: How to suspend dimethicone in SLES based shampoos?Silicones are known for this because they reduce surface tension. This is how they remove soaping in lotions. Watersoluble silicones do impact foam as well but much less.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 11:05 pm in reply to: How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?I have not seen such products. I think you just invented interesting an approach to packaging.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 11:02 pm in reply to: SEPIPLUS™ 400 for Silicone Feel and Glide-On Spreading Properties?It might work if properly formulated. Try glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 as a main emulsifier plus 2% of cetyl alcohol (because it soaps less) plus 0.5% of sepiplus 400 as thickeners. Based on my experience with sepiplus you should get a decent texture. Again nothing can actually beat dimethicone when you use traditional systems.
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I don’t understand why people love lush so much. All of their shampoo bars are made with SLS and draggy stearic acid. Their favorite emulsifier for lotions is TEA stearate, which means that the lowest pH they could have is 8.
All about the presentation… So, try to make it with SLS, add spirulina and market it as an eco-friendly product. -
@Belassi, do you have access to Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate powder? The best surfactants for shampoo bars are: SLSa, Olefin Sulfonate and SCI. Combinatino of SLSa, SCI and CAPB doesn’t need pH adjustment. I haven’t tried SCS, but I read it’s quite alkaline and it’s not easy to reduce the pH when working with it (in a shampoo bar).
Regarding SLS, the majority of Lush’s shampoo bars are made of SLS. I personally don’t like them, but they are very popular:
https://uk.lush.com/products/shampoo/godiva -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 11:29 am in reply to: SEPIPLUS™ 400 for Silicone Feel and Glide-On Spreading Properties?Sepiplus makes quite a viscous product at 1.5%, so I don’t know if you even need carbomer. Another thing, polymeric emulsifiers are film formers. If you add too much plus carbomer it will peel on the skin. You can use sepiplus as texture enhancer rather than primary emulsifier as well (at a lower %).
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 26, 2019 at 11:25 am in reply to: How to make a cleanser with Decyl Glucoside better at removing makeup?No, because I don’t think that gel will mix with cyclomethicone. You will have a mess in the bottle.
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 25, 2019 at 11:35 pm in reply to: Emulsifying Cleansing Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 OleateThank you Gunther
There is also a surfactant designed specifically for making cleansing oils PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE (Cithrol™ 10GTIS by croda). But I haven’t find my way around it yet. -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 25, 2019 at 11:28 pm in reply to: SEPIPLUS™ 400 for Silicone Feel and Glide-On Spreading Properties?It totally does. You don’t need silicones when using it. One of the most easy to use polymeric emulsifiers. But don’t believe that it’s electrolyte resistant (seppic market it as such).
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ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 25, 2019 at 6:42 pm in reply to: Emulsifying Cleansing Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 OleateThis one works. Apply the same logic (You don’t really need a surfactant there) INCI
% Mineral Oil 65.00% Isopropyl
Myrystate20.00% PEG-40 HCO 10.00% Sorbitan Oleate 5.00% -
ngarayeva001
MemberFebruary 25, 2019 at 6:38 pm in reply to: Emulsifying Cleansing Oil with Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate@MaisR, I know exactly why you don’t like it! Made that mistake ones and learned my lesson. Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate is low HLB emulsifier. When you mix it with water it forms water in oil emulsion on your face. Water in oil emulsions are “water resistant”, so you struggle to wash it off! There is a very easy solution to this problem, add high HLB emulsifier such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80 or PEG-40 HCO.
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@Fekher, I have to give a disclaimer that I don’t have experience with TEA stearate, but here is my understanding: HLB system is only applicable to Non-ionic emulsifiers. Stearates are all anionic (I hope professionals will correct me if it’s wrong). So applying HLB to this system will make no sense.
Having said that I am very curious how to use TEA as an emulsifier. I tried several lotions in Lush this weekend. The majority of them are made with TEA stearate as an emulsifier. What really surprised me is that they are not soaping as stearic acid usually does.
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Polyquat 7 and Polyquat 10 are commonly used ones. Keep in mind that 10 is derived from hydroxyethyl cellulose which is a thickener. If you see lumps in the finished profuct just leave it overnight.
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I see a lot of it. Some people even claim that stearic acid is an emulsifier. DIY suppliers contribute to this misconception by placing stearic acid and cetearyl alcohol in ‘emulsifiers’ section (and tocopherol to preservatives).
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@Gunther, that might be my experience but I think silicones perform better as leave in products. Maybe I have to rethink it. How much of dimethicone would give noticeable effect as per your experience?