ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Hello All!
An update for those who are also struggling with a foundation. As I suspected, it’s all about pigments. I found ready foundation blend consisting of: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Hydorgenated Polydecene, Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Polyhydrixystearic Acid, Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Disteardimonium Hectorite, Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Propylene Carbonate (for those who are ingterested: https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/it/gc-base-bb-cream-warm-beige)
I got two colors (light and dark) and mixed to achieve desired shade. The downside is that you can’t play with shades. Bases are neutral and you can’t make them more pinkish or more yellowish. However, all my problems are resolved. I made two foundations with different emulsifiers and slightly different silicones/emollients and added pigments blend into a formed emulsion after cool down. Both have been stable for two weeks. I understand it’s not a “stability” test but provided that before they were separating right away it’s a success. These pigments do not break emulsions and I actually needed less to achieve medium coverage.
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The success of color cosmetics is 90% quality of your pigments. You can try to use those oxides in mineral powder but if those are poor quality, you will get poor quality powder.
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Do you mean that they are called ‘silk amino acids’ but derived from plants or petrochemicals? I will have a look at sensai and shiseido products to see which one uses silk. I used to use both brands before started making my own skincare. But I am pretty certain that the stinky mess I had was made exactly from worms because it smelled like someone died.
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I am actually surprised it’s not available at DIY market because most homecrafters love the idea of mixing shampoo with oil. I see people posting formulas attempting to incorporate huge amounts of oil into a shampoo and asking why it separates probably once a week here. @Nubian, is it difficult to process/requires special equipment?
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Yes, mix your essential oil with polysorbate 80 or 20. 80 tends to foam a little bit more than 20, so depending on your product you can choose one or another. Try 1:4 (one part of EO to 4 parts of solubilizer) for transparent product.
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I have just threw away my silk proteins ? I never liked this ingredient anyway. It smells dreadfully. I just bought it because I like trying new things and silk sounds good (although I was aware it’s a claim ingredient). I have my buzzword label: I am a vegan skincare formulator now, and the fact I never say no to bacon doesn’t change anything ?
Jokes aside, the majority of great ingredients are synthetic or petroleum derived anyway. -
@Pharma, I couldn’t find much. I thought they just collect silk worms cocoons and hydrolyze it… What is actually used? In fact I have a couple of animal derived ingredients but for example I would never be ok to apply sheep sebum on my lips or animal fat on my skin. Not a fan of snail slime either. Just a personal preference.
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I heard that there are materials that allow making high performance shampoo with huge amount of oils. It sounds very interesting but they are not sold at DIY size quantities (1lt).
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I don’t know about you guy but after I saw this, I came to the conclusion that I want my skincare vegan.
I mean, don’t get me wrong! With all those wonderful ‘toxic chemicals’ like PEGs, Sulfates,Silicones, Parabens and whatever is demonized now. But very very vegan. -
You can try Glyceryl Stearate SE. Glyceryl stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid, which can be soy derived. It should be Ecocert approved. Is it for the same formula you posted before? If yes, have you considered adding 1,3 Propanediol to reduce water activity? It’s a humectant, and it’s palm free. Your formula lacks humectants.
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There is nothing wrong with it. I assume you are referring to refined mineral oil. It’s stable and does the same thing as other oils from the performance standpoint.
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Well apparently lecithin (that is part of siligel) is very hard to preserve. I like siligel, but I don’t need that trouble. I already rewrote all my formulas that contained siligel.
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I made very basic oil cleanser based on croda’s formula. Basically it’s some ester like c12-15 alkyl benzoate, cithrol 10 gtis and polysorbate 80. Check out croda’s formulas but never add as much emulsifier as they call. They suggest 30% or more sometimes. Too irritating for eyes. But their formulas are very good starting point.
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This is very strange. I used polyquat 10 of 3 different suppliers and never had issues with it. What I normally do, I slurry it in glycerin like xanthan, then I add it to water (not even 50% but maybe 20) and stir at low speed for 10 minutes. And even when there are some minor clumps they hydrate in the product overnight. Try to slurry it. 4 parts of glycerin to 1 part of polyquat 10.
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Guys I read a review in the Advanced Cosmetic Formulators group on Facebook and it sounds like that dynamix isn’t particularly good with high viscosities. Sounds like it’s just an overpriced stick blender
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@Pharma, I have never seen that but now I need it ?
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I haven’t used ferulic acid, but Ubiquinone that is supposed to be antioxidant, added at 0.2%, oxidises (in a formula with tocopherol and BHT similar to yours) and causes the product discoloration within just a couple of weeks. I did a knockout experiment and know it ‘s ubiquinone. So it is probably ferulic in your case too. I used Evonic’s ceramides in many different formulas (O/W, W/O) and have never noticed them causing any troubles.
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90% of moisturisers sold in drug stores (Boots, Walgreens, CVS you name it) be like:
INCI Percentage to be used Aqua qs to 100 Glycerin 3.00% Propylene Glycol 1.00% Xanthan gum 0.20% Disodium EDTA 0.20% Dimethicone 1.00% Paraffinum Liquidum 6.00% Fancy oil #1 x Fancy oil #2 x Fancy oil #3 x Tocopherol 0.10% BHT 0.10% Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00% Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer0.20% Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100
Stearate
Fancy useless extract for claims 0.1%qs Parabens Based preservative qs NaOH qs Citric
acidqs This is your “NiveaNeutrogenaOlayNo7” you name it. All are the same. No magic and no art either.
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I don’t understand one thing.. All these O/W moisturisers are so similar. An experienced formulator can write hundreds of formulas without much effort. If you create a stable chassis you can play with oils as much as you want and you have a different product. Why people get so attached to their formulas? I understand it’s very difficult to create a sunscreen or w/si emulsion that doesn’t separate. But these O/W moisturisers.. Just write another one!
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pH is too high. I know some professional chemists on this forum are not persuaded that low pH products are better but 9? At least bring it down to neutral. Citric acid 50% solution. I am curious what caused that pH.
4% of essential oils! These are irritants. Especially peppermint at such a concentration. Bring it down to 0.3% , 0.5% max.
4% of solubiliser is not sufficient for 4% of oil. It’s usually 4:1 depending on the oil.
Is it Disodium EDTA? You can reduce to 0.2%
I can’t see a preservative. Am I missing anything? -
I am dreaming about silverson, but they are outrageously expensive. There is a chinese one now being sold on Amazon UK. It’s much more affordable than silverson but I am in a doubt. If someone has experience with cheaper homogenisers please share! I checked ultraturrax too but they won’t be able to deal with high viscosity, so not an option.
I know many would say you get what you pay for, but I have cheap chinese overhead stirrer that I consider the best investment I have ever made. It doesn’t have a monitor, but who needs it.. -
Double cleanse. First step is, as Pharma said, oil to milk type of cleanser (makeup removing balm, see clinique take the day off), followed by foaming cleanser.
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Polysorbate 60 is a high HLB emulsifier, while Polysorbates 20 and 80 are solubilizers. Which makes me think it might be a better option.
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I made this simple hand soap last weekend:
INCI % Aqua 37.6% Disodium EDTA 0.1% Glycerin 2.0% SLES 40.0% Cocamide DEA 3.0% CAPB 15.0% Germaben II 0.8% PEG-7 Glyceryl
cocoate1.5% Citric
Acidqs It is so thick without any salt that my problem was how to unthicken it. And I haven’t even added any salt. Combination of SLES and CAPB is thick by itself. CDEA makes it even thicker. So maybe you just need to play with %