ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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And preservative should also go to the water phase. The ones that are added to the cooldown are less effective in w/o (I guess because oil is the continuous phase?)
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@Pharma, also, there is also deoxycholic acid (also known as Kybella or Belkyra) that I heard is pretty effective. Haven’t tried that one but I know that when one is too lazy to do enough cardio, cryo lipolysis works wonders
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Let me bring up another reason why it cannot be correct order. Disodium EDTA has very low solubility in water. It takes heating and a lot of mixing to dissolve 0.2%. Tetrasodium is more ‘easygoing’. There’s however an ingredient that is used both as chelating agent and marketed as polyhydroxy acid (mild exfoliant) - gluconolactone. Dissolves at very high amounts in cold water.
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Can you define “natural”? The answer is, you can’t. It’s not defined.
It’s not about trying different combinations of oils. Oils (vegetable or synthetic) don’t make a good detangler. -
1) A ridiculously high amount of essential oils.
2) A very high amount of carrier oils
3) Too much of vitamin ethere is no such thing as “organic” detangler. Good detanglers must include cationic compounds and silicones. The only thing the concoction above can do is to make hair greasy.
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Post the formula, maybe someone can advise. I agree with previous commentators. It’s safer to make it from scratch. There’s only one base I use, but I made it myself for a specific active that oxidises quickly.
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They just messed up the LOI. I saw it many times.
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PE 9010 doesn’t have sodium benzoate, it’s mostly Phenoxyethanol and a little of EHG.
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@shechemie, manufacturer’s samples are ok. They are properly sealed (I can’t get access to those, but I saw how they look). Regarding preservatives, the answer is, unfortunately, we don’t know. What is even worse is that you can’t always see or smell bacterial contamination, but the measures I described above give me a little bit of assurance. It’s do all that is possible and hope for the best approach. What preservatives… The several relatively bulletproof preservatives are: Germaben II (parabens and Diazolidinyl Urea), Germall powder (Diazolidinyl Urea and Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate), Phenonip (parabens and phenoxy), Euxyl K940 (phenoxy, EHG, benzyl alc). I sometimes use Euxyl PE 9010 (cheap and easy to find for me) but it’s weak on mould.
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@shechemie, formulating in the “kitchen” is very different from manufacturing a large batch. I don’t know where you get your ingredients, but if those are from repackagers, they are compromised from day one. I am very into reverse-engineering popular products (especially those from luxury brands for which I don’t want to pay $80+ as you mentioned). I like one to one (or at least as close as possible) copies and although I use the very same Aristoflex AVC as say, Clarins or Chanel do, I can’t expect my product to have the same shelf life as Clarins’ product. The repackagers don’t store ingredients properly in many cases, you can’t assure the same level of sanitation in your kitchen/lab.
There is a number of things you should do to make sure your homemade
products last:
1) Use reliable preservatives at the maximum recommended amount and blend them (I add Euxyl K940 and Germaben II both at max amount)
2) Uses distilled water and boil it (better overdo than sorry). If you don’t want to do it make sure that your water is up to standard when it comes to bacteria. Distilled doesn’t equal sterile.
3) Although it’s distilled water, still add EDTA
4) The more “synthetic” your formula is the longer it will leave (mineral oil vs almond oil, carbomer vs siligel, Ceteareth-20, Arlacel 165 vs “natural” emulsifiers)
5) Don’t add any bug food: proteins, clays, oat, aloe, hydrosols, lecithin, any food items - skip them all
6) Airless pump where possible (for packaging)
7) 70% ethanol to clean your beakers and surfaces (or isopropyl alcohol if you don’t have ethanol)
Make sure you know your preservatives best before.Even after all of this, don’t expect your product to last for 24 months, but s6 months to a year might be achievable.
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PEG-6 CC glycerides is a mild surfactant too. It’s used in micellar water.
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Sodium Carbomer is a nice gelling agent but it won’t hold that blend. Lotioncrafter and makingcosmetics sell ZEN. It’s a useful ingredient to have in general, so might want to consider it.
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What type of vitamin C?
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I would advise getting GMS/PEG100 blend (which is very multipurpose and robust) and adding real dimethicone. You can also try knock out experiment and remove all extracts to see if it goes better.
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@Doreen, what do you use for the water phase? I saw biosaccharide - 1 gum in a couple of commercial w/si products. It is not a thickener really but it adds a little bit to viscosity.
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There’s also behenyl alcohol which provides dryer and slightly powdery feel. It’s a nice material for oilier types of skin. I mix it with cetyl.
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Both. Cetearyl is more draggy and contributes to less elegant feel, but it acts as a coemulsifier and thus adds to stability. As fas as I am aware, cetyl doesn’t have those benefits. It’s much smoother though, so I combine them. I noticed this approach in many commercial products.
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If it has to do with the acid only then using Sepimax Zen should solve the problem. I have a product with 4% (active) of Lactic acid with pH 3.2 that is thickened with Sepimax Zen.
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@Lindsey1009, can you reach out to Formulator Sample Shop and ask them what exactly is included to your AHA blend? If it’s buffered as I suggested, it means that you won’t be able to use many other gelling agents either. You would either have to choose a less elegant way to gel it (gums) or change that AHA blend to pure acids (which is a bit problematic if you don’t have a good pH meter).
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@Doreen, I am referring to fruit acid blends intended for non-professional use like this one: https://naturallythinking.com/aha-fruit-complex
Please click on the ingredients to see the details. It includes Sodium Lactate and Sodium Citrate to buffer the pH. I suggested that it could be the same with Formulator Sample Shop’s blend. Because a small amount of acid doesn’t explain why Sepinov turns into a liquid, but the presence of strong electrolytes does. It’s just a guess. -
Can you define “small MOQ”? Although it’s a bad idea to manufacture anything you want to sell yourself doing it in the UK would be even more difficult because DIY (repackagers) market here leans towards “natural”, “PEG-free” and other chemophobic ideas. you won’t be able to produce anything good enough to stand out unless you are willing to bring materials from the US, EU, Australia and other places. I am saying it because you asked about “suppliers”. You don’t need to know suppliers of, say, glycolic acid or retinol to start your skincare line, you need a formulator who will write a formula for you and a contract manufacturer who will manufacture the product for you.
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@wob12, I like that magazine too. This is where I got the inspiration for my cold cream. I noticed they have no oil. Stearic acid is the only emollient. You can create an emulsion with fatty acids and fatty alcohols only. Hair conditioner would be a good example of that. I would remove the oil at all and increase rather than decrease stearic acid. Otherwise, it will be runny. Please do keep us posted on your progress!
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Tea tree oil helps with acne. The question is, is better than salicylic acid?
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Then you can get away with non-coated cosmetic mica. These guys have a nice supply: https://tkbtrading.com/
Just make sure you add something like carbomer (because in theory you need coated mica and high yield polymer to suspend particles, but carbomer would do the job for a pinch of mica) to your formula or mica might sink. Don’t use this approach for colour cosmetics like a foundation. Those are much more complex. -
Wait a second! It’s a ready blend that you bought from a DIY store. It must be buffered for safety reasons. Acids can cause serious damage. They locked pH using acid’s conjugate salt. Probably sodium citrate. It’s a strong electrolyte. That’s why Sepinov can’t deal with it.