ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Unfortunately, it’s sold out even at small repackagers. Even sodium carbomer at lotioncrafter is sold out.
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@Perry, I think the idea that alcohol is drying comes from anecdotal experience shared by of many people. Alcohol is pretty good at degreasing. Degreased skin loses water faster than skin protected by a thin layer of sebum. So it’s ‘drying’ in the same way as detergents. The misunderstanding comes from the fact that people with skin issues (read teenaged girls with oily skin and acne) would be willing to use alcohol toners more often that washing their face with soap and water. They also tend to share an opinion that oil is bad (see countless ‘oil free’ emulsions with esters and D5 marketed for oily skin) and don’t restore the protective layer of sebum after degreasing their skin 5 times a day with alcohol based toner. You approach this as a scientist and base your opinion on studies that show no evidence that alcohol is drying. Alcohol is drying not because there’s an underlying mechanism for this ingredient to be drying but due to improper use.
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Re glycerin, my understanding was that it’s added to extend contact of ethanol with skin as high % ethanol is pretty volatile.
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A couple of suggestions. Yes definitely exclude HA, not only it’s watersoluble it needs water to work. You can apply some basic HA serum to a slightly wet skin and to a dry skin to see the difference. Regarding oils, I don’t know your %, but if you can try to add as little of rosehip oil as possible. It’s very prone to oxidation. You can add tocopherol as antioxidant at 0.1%. It’s oil soluble and what is typically used in such a product. You can add oil soluble actives for the label appeal. I like bisabolol. There’s some evidence that it reduces inflammation (placebo controlled but not double blinded with relatively small population size). There’s a natural and a synthetic varieties if that’s important. Works at a low amount (the study I read use 0.15%)
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There are btms, ceteareth 25 and cetrimonium chloride, others aren’t emulsifiers. It’s an old formula and I’ve being changing it. It will work without cetrimonium chloride. Quaternium 80 is my recent discovery and this formula have been working without it before. What I suggest keeping is ceteareth. (I tried both 20 and 25 don’t see the difference for this product). You can try another non-ionic emulsifier.
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INCI % Aqua 67.0% Euxyl k701 1.0% Disodium EDTA 0.1% Hydrolysed
wheat protein3.0% Glycerin 2.0% BTMS-25 10.0% Myristyl Myristate 4.0% Ceteareth-25 2.0% IPM 0.5% Germaben II 1.0% Cyclopentasiloxane 5.0% Amodimethicone 2.0% Quaternium 80 1.0% Fragrance 0.5% Cetrimonium Chloride 0.9% This one is more like a mask. You can use it as a starting point.
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I think they all contain cetyl alcohol. I use 10% of BTMS-25 and don’t add any cetyl alcohol (I might add myristyl myristate if I want a thicker consistency)
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You are looking for ethanol.
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@Sosoz, the very fact that you have just called a product that is assumed to take off a layer of skin “a recipe” tells me that you have absolutely no idea what you are doing. This is not how you should approach this type of project. It is the same as coming to a forum of medical doctors and asking to guide you on how to do surgery based on the fact you have a very sharp knife and know how to cut a whole chicken. Go to the https://www.chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/137/need-formulating-services-here-are-some-contacts#latest, find a chemist and outsource it to a professional.
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@Sponge properly formulated retinol would cause severe peeling even at 1%. When I say severe I mean you will be peeling like a snake and your skin will be falling off your face in 3cm whole pieces which looks even more gross than what you imagine.
Retinol is a very serious ingredient and should be treated accordingly. Mixing it with AHAs is a terrible idea and the formula above can cause severe skin damage. Optimal pH for retinol is neutral. I gave a careful hint on it not to hurt anyone’s feelings, but you are giving terrible advice to someone who is clearly doesn’t understand what are they doing and leaving me no choice than to point on this directly. Anyone who will attempt to apply 2% of SA, 10% of glycolic 2% of retinol and other actives at the same time, will end up in dermatologist office.
Do not mess with serious actives without knowing what you are doing. Retinol and SA are OTC drugs and you will hurt yourself.
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I even read that some of them need to be heated to increase solubility. Phenonip should be heated. Methyl and propyl paraben however can come as Germaben II which can’t be heated because of Diazolidinyl Urea.
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I thought retinol needed higher pH
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Please share your experience. It’s a nice toy indeed and I totally understand it. I bought double heat plate with magnetic stirrer that I didn’t need and who knows maybe I also get a homogenizer one day
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Anhydrous balm with hyaluronic acid?
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@helenhelen, this isn’t a popular opinion but if it’s just for you, I don’t think you need to waste money on homogenizer. I am all for good lab equipment and own a couple of pieces myself but you can make almost everything with a stick blender. I make w/si Emulsions with bosch stick blender. I would say that an overhead stirrer is an essential piece. You can get high shear from a stick blender. Also depending on what you make you might not want wasting expensive materials. Homogenizer creates a lot of waste (you will need to make larger batch and half of it will stay on the homogenizer’s head).
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@joanlante, you can mix it manually but it will take you a while. I noted that I used a magnetic stirrer to dissolve ALA in propanediol to specify that you don’t need high shear.
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I bought it first time because a friend told me about its ‘magical’ properties (the ordinary, and then I bought the raw material and mixed my own). I had an intention to prove that wrong because I didn’t find any scientific justification (it’s not AHA) and people like to believe in things that make them feel good. To my shame I noticed the difference, which, I admit, is totally anecdotal evidence. I will probably continue using it as there’s no harm in using an antioxidant, but thank you all for confirming there’s no mechanism for delivering visible changes.
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It has an effect similar to glycolic acid. Skin looks more even next morning if you apply it overnight. I am normally extremely sceptical, but I am just a human. Maybe it’s a placebo. Maybe I just see something that isn’t there.
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Thank you!
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@Imosca, it’s prone to oxidation in presence oF water. I read the best way to deal with it is to solubilize It in glycol and the mix with a base cream right before application.
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Such a mysterious ingredient.. I really want to be skeptical because I didn’t find a mechanism that would make it work overnight but it makes skin look better overnight like AHA would. Does anyone know if there’s a reason why it might work? I understand it’s not because it’s an antioxidant, is there any keratolityc effect maybe?
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It’s soluble in glycols. I solubilised 5% in propanediol. It required 20 minutes mixing on the magnetic stirrer without heating.
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@Pharma, this is very interesting! I am not a fan of alchemy ingredients, to be honest. The one I most familiar with is sucragel which I don’t think I will even repurchase but I know they specialise on such things. May I ask for an example of PEG-emulsifier that can make o/w HIPE? I don’t see much application for those (I am a huge fan of HIPE w/o though) but very curious.
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That was my first thought too (about the soap). Could you find NaOH there? I am sure it’s possible to find some fats. Soap is a very basic thing, you just need 3 simple ingredients: water, fats of pretty much any origin (triglycerides) and lye.