ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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You can use propanediol as high as 95%. It’s safe. The point is it’s not going to feel nice. Re glycerin, true it does the same job but glycerin is sticky if I had to choose between 10% of glycerin or propanediol I would choose propanediol.
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I saw 0.1%, 0.2% and 0.5% in different sources. I saw 0.5% in L’Oreal’s patent of C,E Ferulic. I personally stick to 0.1% to be conservative. Or just use BHT.
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True. I guess the distribution of useless products is uneven too. Most of useless products are concentrated in face skincare: masks, toners, serums (99% of them), micellar water, face oils, creams with useless botanicals and actives without enough scientific backup, face mists (except for setting mists with PVP), questionable exfoliating products… Well consumerism is good for the economy anyway.
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@PeaceLoveNaturals I run a comparison test of different thickeners yesterday (received a new material and wanted to see how it compares with what I have). Cetyl and Behenyl alcohol contribute to similar rheology. 3% is enough to create viscous cream (it won’t spill if you turn the beaker quickly). It takes them about a day to gain full viscosity and they are generally similar except for behenyl giving drier feel. Behenyl also soaps a little more which is easy to solve by adding dimethicone.
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Yes, different surfactants/ different % of existing surfactants/ more amphoteric surfactants. It’s about the entire formula, not one ingredient.
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I missed the question on phenoxyethanol SA. Clays are very hard to preserve. I would go fo phenonip, or top up phenoxyethanol SA with germeben II (or as MakingCosmetics call it Paraben DU). Still not guaranteed. Only preservative efficiency test would tell you.
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The main problem with clay masks is that they are useless. All they do is absorbing extra sebum, but you can get the same result with paper napkin. People just love this idea of applying a mask. They think mask => SPA => relaxation =>skin benefits. The only masks that have skin benefits, in my opinion, are those that contain a form of chemical exfoliants. If anyone can prove me wrong happy to change my mind. I am not only persuaded in this as a formulator, I thought the same as a consumer.
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You don’t need a humectant in wash off product. You need to review the formula. Also you cannot avoid applying moisturizer even after the most mild face wash.
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Someone with dry skin might like cetyl alcohol better. I like both actually. It really depends on the formula.
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Yes, behenyl gives more powdery and dry feel than cetyl.
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1) How much? I know where to buy a small amount (100ml-1 lt)
2) Where are you based? -
You have to choose: electrolytes or rheology modifiers based on acrylic acid. You can’t have both.
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Hydrolysed protein will break gel network the same way as aloe.
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It’s actually a tricky one. In theory, all ingredients starting from silica could be at 1%. It’s a cold process formula, so they would need a good stabiliser, which explains why they might have used silica at 1-1.5%. I also don’t see electrolytes here which is surprising, and in most cases, with w/si foundations and concealers water is still the first ingredient. In any case, I would guess that starting from Polypropylsilsesquioxane everything is below 1%.
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@Perry I listened to MWSCC Preservative Webinar and it is so frustrating that instead of thinking how to make the product formulators have to think how to preserve it with these new preservatives and build your entire project around it.
And some of those anti parabens/silicones etc researches do sound scary. I came across this nonsense recently https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-019-14202-1 and almost had a heart attack. Then I turned my critical thinking on and thought, how on Earth they could isolate the use of parabens from other factors? And if even those with a good amount of critical thinking and ability to understand how the researches are conducted get doubtful, I can’t blame the general public. -
@klangridge, unfortunately not all brands are following proper labelling rules, and that might be the case with the concealer you are referring to. There is also a possibility that the concealer has an insanely long list of ingredients, where they thew everything but the kitchen sink to it. So, assuming it’s water in silicone emulsion, D5 and water would be your first ingredients. I would expect to see emulsifiers after that, but, if they used 5 different emulsifiers (which happens pretty often), they indeed might be lower in the list than silica (which I would expect to be around 1-1.5% as oil phase gelling agent). If you post a list of ingredients I can try to guess if it’s the case.
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Carbomers are not electrolyte resistant. CAPB is full of salt. You can use xanthan. It will work but the texture is not going to be pleasant.
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Nothing is wrong with those but would be hard to thicken. You would probably need either crothix or PEG-150 distearate.
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@Sponge, silica dimethyl silylate is a great ingredient, but it doesn’t thicken veg oils. It works with silicones, hydrocarbons and some esters.
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If cetyl alcohol isn’t natural enough for you nothing else would be.
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Oh they have Dow Corning’s formulation aid 5225 water in silicone emulsifier. It isn’t sold anywhere else and it’s fantastic for foundations. They also have my most favorite w/o PEG-30 Dypolyxydroxystearate which creates light and fluffy HIPEs that have benefits of w/o but feel like o/w. There’s also Ez4U by Lubrizol, a polymeric emulsifiers that can stabilise impressive amount of oil and creates gel at just 0.2%. Those 3 are the reason I order from Trulux. They have Abil EM 90 w/si emulsifier (I have love hate relationship with it) but that one is also sold by glamourcosmetics.
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Borax aside, dissolve in 200ml of water? And then just add chelator, amphoteric secondary surfactants, refattening agents, PRESERVATIVES, rheology modifiers and other materials? People on YouTube do a lot of nonsense. Anyway you can make powdered cleanser by diluting SLSa with something like talc, but that should be used in powdered form.
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Agree with Fekher. Also, those oils would make hair greasy. All you need is a little bit of PVP and amodimethicone.
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It was a new ingredient for me so I was on the conservative side. It’s a pain to formulate with but I might try again in winter. I wouldn’t risk going over 4% though.