[ngarayeva001]

Propylene Glycol has GRAS status. You won’t get safer than that.

[ngarayeva001]

If you can get sample get both and just test on your hand to see what each does. They both are great but I would argue that polymethylsilsesquioxane is more versatile. 

[ngarayeva001]

No, sepimat doesn’t add silky glide and it much more mattifying.

[ngarayeva001]

Just treat it as you would any carbomer. I  add a drop or two of NaOH depending on the formula. Every ingredient you add might impact it and that’s why ph regulators are always ‘qs’. You need to experiment to establish how much you need.

[ngarayeva001]

@natzam44 please share if you find something reasonable. It sounds like an interesting ingredient, maybe we just don’t use it right or our expectations isn’t right.

[ngarayeva001]

Btw I recently discovered sepimat sb by Seppic. Go to for mattifying. I use it in face powder but it’s used in emulsions.

[ngarayeva001]

I believe hydroquinone is available over the counter in the US at 1%. It’s banned in the UK, and is only available by prescription.

[ngarayeva001]

Lose that kojic acid and urea. Hydroquionone alone presents a significant formulation challenge. Yes, you need lactic acid and sodium metabisulfite. You also must passivate the steel you used in making it. Lookup for dupont’s formula as a starting point 

[ngarayeva001]

I read an article in personal care magazine (I think March issue) on zinc ricinoleate. The supplier claims it’s effective at binding sulfuric compounds that are responsible for unpleasant odors when combined with chelators. I tried out of curiosity but didn’t notice much difference so decided to stick to antiperspirants with aluminum salts. Does anyone has anything to say about zinc ricinoleate?

[ngarayeva001]

In very simplified terms: ketchup - short flow, honey - long flow. Don’t confuse with viscosity.

[ngarayeva001]

There are so many ingredients that can improve aesthetics without compromising on stability though. Various esters with different melting points and spreadability, silicone elastomers, powders like polymetylilsesquioxane, polymers.. I am sure there’s more.

[ngarayeva001]

What do montanovs emulsifiers do that 165 doesn’t? Emolliency?

[ngarayeva001]

There is, however, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate in case that’s what you mean. It’s exceptionally mild and as per some suppliers is well tolerated by mucus membranes (I would probably agree with this claim based on my anecdotal experience). Regarding what is better… SLES is much more multifunctional. Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate doesn’t like low ph and is very difficult to thicken (if someone has tips please share). It also doesn’t cleanse as well as SLES does.

[ngarayeva001]

As I always say if it’s for your own use and there’s no customer who wants ‘natural green and organic’ just use lotionpro 165. Aka arlacel 165. Aka GMS+peg-100 stearate. It’s a bulletproof solution.

[ngarayeva001]

By the way, you can often see isododecane in cream eyeshadows and there is no way you can use the whole pot because they dry out and become unusable as isododecane evaporates (it is also volatile). Example: https://www.chanel.com/en_GB/fragrance-beauty/makeup/p/eyes/eyeshadows/ombre-premiere-longwear-cream-eyeshadow-p176802.html#skuid-0176804

So, I would think that volatile substances should be avoided in eyeshadows and powders. 

Regarding Trimethylsiloxysilicate it’s a must-have for makeup. It is a very nice film former that makes makeup long-lasting. I haven’t seen it in powders but it’s used a lot in foundations, concealers, lipsticks and similar. It comes in powder form as well as diluted in Cyclopentasiloxane to isododecane.

[ngarayeva001]

BTMS50 can’t be less conditioning than BTMS-25 because it’s twice as concentrated.

[ngarayeva001]

Polyquaternium 10 and cationic guar might improve the slip a lot. And as Perry mentioned the amount of cationic emulsifiers does matter a lot. Although I personally like silicones in almost everything, I don’t think they contribute to slip effect in conditioners.

[ngarayeva001]

And what it the reason you don’t want to use one of the safest and most reliable type of preservatives?

[ngarayeva001]

Define ‘natural’

[ngarayeva001]

I am really curious what is ‘glycerin Coco’

[ngarayeva001]

@Dr_Sara ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????? 

[ngarayeva001]

If it’s an emulsion carbomer, xanthan and polymeric emulsifiers can all go to oil phase. They disperse  much better this way.

[ngarayeva001]

TEA, SLES, EDTA.. I wish everyone’s definition of natural looked like that

[ngarayeva001]

Are you trying to establish amounts of other ingredients or?

[ngarayeva001]

TiO2 is very difficult  to disperse properly. You would need high yield polymers, dispersing agents etc. it isn’t worth it when there are pearlisers available.