ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Btw I couldn’t find size of that nano collagen in that study.
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I was actually thinking about the list (how to assess if the source is legit) that @Microformulation gave me in one of the comments when reading that ‘study’. I couldn’t stop smiling ?
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@Dtdang I like grapeseed oil it’s nice and light but from the same article you shared today, it’s very high in linoleic acids, so very unstable. Add good amount of vitamin E if using it.
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@Majman no, coconut oil and other oils you listed are carrier oils. Essential oils are lavender, tea tree, orange and other oils that have strong smell. No oil has real brightening properties. However if you need to say (marketing claim) to the client that ‘it has brightening properties, use rosehip oil (INCI rosa canina fruit oil). It has some traces of Vitamin A. Not enough to do something but enough to ‘say’ that it does. It also has great color (it will give your lotion creamy vanilla color) and it’s a good oil in general. If you want to use extracts, try licorice root (it has some brightening properties.
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No concens about cocamidopropyl betaine at all. It’s one of the mildest surfactants that is used for baby products. But even as mild as it is, I don’t think surfactants should be left on skin. They should be rinsed off. This is my personal opinion and there are many leave on products with surfactants. If you want to boost the foam you can add decyl glucoside. It’s also a mild surfactant. The only thing I don’t like about this formula is the preservative. This one maybe sensitizing for some skin types. Consider parabens, or if you want to go ‘paraben free’ phenoxyethanol.
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@Majman read this discussion before starting formulating any leave on procuct with essential oils and pay attention to the study shared by Perry.
Essential oils are either cytotoxic or phototoxic or both. Eventhough some of them have certain skin benefits the side effects eliminate them. If you want to make a product with brightening properties that will actually work: Alpha Arbutin, Kojic Acid, combination of Niacinamide and N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. Research them and choose the one that works for your product.
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I was not aware of this concept, but now it makes perfect sense for me why the most of commercial products have a combination of shea butter and jojoba oil.
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@O12, what you posted are not INCI names. I googled it, INCI names for Cosphagard Precare are: Aqua, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Benzoate, INCI name for Cosphaderm KG is Amorphophallus Konjac Root Extract.
So, you have 5% of Glycerine that is extremely high and makes your formula sticky, some humectants and extracts that all are water phase and 4% of oil (I hope it’s not Rosa Damascena Essential oil used at a concentration of 4%?) without a proper emulsifier. It is not surprising that it’s peeling. Leave it for some time and it will separate in the bottle. You need an emulsifier if you mix water and oil. Regading the pH, what is it at the moment and what are you reying to get?
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Polysorbate 20 is a solubiser. In this formula, it is dissolving oils (make up and sebum) and allows to wipe them off. Quaternium 15 is both a surfactant and preservative, but here it probably serves as a preservative. I don’t like the idea of keeping surfactants (even betaine) on the skin. This product should be rised off.
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Also, Dehydroacetic acid & Benzyl alcohol blend is a non paraben, non-formaldehyde, non-isothiazolone based preservative system. It is acceptable in organic formulations. I can’t say anything about efficacy.
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This really depends on the type of a product. You are correct, it is pH dependent, however, a scrub in a jar packaging (rinse off) that is stored in a humid warm place (bathroom) and that is scooped out of this jar with wet fingers would need a very strong preservative system. Much stronger than, say a spray in airtight container (leave on). So you should think about it from the product perspective not leave on/rinse off. You can try Sodium benzoate & Potassium sorbate blend (it’s kinda broad spectrum and kinda intended for both rinse off and leave on products) but I don’t think it will be as effective as parabens.
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@Dtdang, you mentioned Dimethicone fluid from makingcosmetics, I want to share what I recently found. They have a watersoluble dimethicone. It’s called PEG-8 Dimethicone. It’s intended for serums and surfactant products, but I added it to a lotion and the texture was amazing. I had 1.5% of Dimethicone fluid and 1.5% of PEG-8 Dimethincone in that formula (plus a blend of vegetable oils). I also tried it with surfactants and serums (it should be low concentration for serums, as per my experience) and it worked well. Great product with many applications. Consider trying it. Also, Dimethicone Satin is not much different from their Dimethicone 500, but Satin is much more expensive. Is not worth it. I guess I tried all silicones on makingcosmetics :smiley:
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@Belassi just remember to get an unrefined one. The refined has no odor. I think it’s the only butter that is better in an unrefined form. I am not a big fan of organic stuff in general, but for some reason (maybe organic tends to be higher quality) organic has stronger (better) smell.
@Dtdang thank you so much for the article!
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@Belassi, I think everyone who comes to formulation has an idea to create something new or at least to use some exotic oils/extracts. After some time the realisation comes, that if something doesn’t exist in commercial products already, there is a good reason for that. I have a rule now, everytime I find some exotic ingredient, I go to beautipedia.com and type the inci name in the search. It shows popular products with this ingredient (and ingredient list). If it doesn’t exist, I think twice before purchasing.
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@Sal there’s a supplier in the UK: https://www.thesoapkitchen.co.uk/spirulina-algae-powder . Not sure how much you need, they do DIY and small business sizes but they are very responsive, so maybe it’s worth reaching out to them. They have a lot of interesting natural ingredients. Prices are the lowest in the UK (for DIY websites)
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Cocoa is great for body products. Get some high quality unrefined and you can make body lotions that smell like dark chocolate. Add a drop of orange essential oil (orange is phototoxic but I think it’s ok at a very low concentration if you don’t use it on face) and the smell will be fantastic. I saw cocoa butter in commercial face products too at a low concentration. I don’t remember it’s comedogenic rating but should not be more than 3.
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Mango is similar to shea, but lighter. It’s very popular within DIY community but I have not really seen it in many commercial products. The idea is, if shea it too heavy, use mango.
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Shea is good for face. Comedogenic rating is 2 (low enough). Doesn’t cause allergies. Pretty stable. Together with jojoba oil it’s one of the most used in expensive commercial products. I recommend refined, because unrefined smells.
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@Doreen regarding hyaluronic acid, it’s not exactly the case, because HML forms a gel,which is very useful in formulating serums. However there are 5 or 6 “low molecular weight” powders available (usually the lower weight, the more expensive it is). So I am curious is there any good reason (I am not talking about penetrating the skin marketing claims) to buy “the lowest” weight or not.
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@Belassi, if they said “you can find all of these unique ingredients including apple stem cells on lotioncrafter” how would they justify the price tag? :smiley:
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Also, regarding derivatives, there are studies that suggest that MAP is only effective at a concentration of 10%
Source: Photochemistry and Photobiology, June 1998, pages 669–675; and Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, March 1997, pages 795–801
As per my expenrience, it is extremely difficult to dissolve more than 5% of MAP even in a hot water (I don’t know if it’s possible with professional homogenizers). Even at 5% it gives quite an unpleasant feel to serums (it feels like a film on a skin). It also tends to cause change of color of a product if pH is below 7 (suppliers say 6, but my own experience says 7), which is not very desireable as skin’s pH is on the acidic side and lower than 7. My point is, there is a good reason why many try to stabilise LAA. There are manufacturers in Asia who make LAA serums on demand and ship it by express mail, so it reaches the customer within just a couple of days after it was manufactured. The Ordinary suggests to use LAA powder and mix it into another product. I disagree with this approach because unless it comes with a precise scale and pH strips it is impossible to get the right concentration and pH. I am not suggesting that derivatives are bad, however LAA is obviously better.
Disclaimer: I am only commenting on brightening properties of LAA thus compared it with MAP (which has proven brightening properties).
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I think you need to hire a professional if this issue jeopardizes your launch date. Check contacts in the very first topic of the forum.
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What we all are trying to say, all these “chemicals” are not as bad as you believe they are. I think mineral makeup is as ‘natural’ as you can get. Even if you formulate your own, which I absolutely encourage you to do, since formulating is fun, I don’t think it would be ‘more natural’ than mineral makeup.
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I agree it’s worth researching. I know by my own experience that a face wash with SLES irritates eyes more than the surfactants mentioned above. You can apply it on your eyelids and open your eyes. I will post here if find any information from a legit source.