ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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The bottom line, you can have a very thick product with 90% of water or very thin product with 60% of water if change the amount of carbomer only.
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@jeremien, thank you. I will research it. I am experienced with o/w emulsions with an oil phase of max 25%. I guess that majority of lotions and creams are within this range.
Regarding increasing of the viscosity, I just prefer good old polymers. It’s three in one: an emulsifyer a thickener and a texture enhancer. -
Many professional chemists (on this forum) disagree that alcohol is bad for skin. There are researches that show that alcohol is much less irritating than some surfactants. However, it is drying. Very drying. It strips off oils from skin, and make it produce more sebum, which is not desirable in most cases. I totally agree that, it is not required in a body mist.
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It really depends on the size of production as Belassi noted above. My understanding is that you are learning. It means you need the tiniest amounts of the ingerdients, to “get to know” them. You need to work with as many as possible to understand how to work with them, how they behave in a formula, what not to mix etc. I would recommend makingcosmetics and lotioncrafter. These two sell tiny quantities for home crafters. You can buy 2gr of hyaluronic acid or 100 ml of a polymer on those websites. Also, buy some cheap overhead stirrer. You can find a chinese one for as cheap as $90 on ebay or amazon. 100W, 3000RPM is ok for small amounts. Stick blender is not ok. If you tell me what you want to focus on (lotions, surfactant products), I can put together an approx list of “must buys”.
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Decyl Glucoside is a great foam booster (it thins out the product though). I think you can up % PEG-150 Distearate to 1.5%
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No, oils are responsible for emolliency not the body of the product.
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@Doreen, thank you very much for this!
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Adding an antioxidant wouldn’t hurt either.
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Increase the amount of cetearyl alcohol/stearic acid/cetyl alcohol/polysorbate 60/carbomer. There is no such rule as “3% of cetyl alcohol makes a lotion and 6% makes a cream” It depends on other ingredients. Make 5-6 small batches with different proportions of different thickeners, and see which one you like. Or post your formula here and I will be able to comment on what to increase.
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Thank you!
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Maybe you consider silicones? It’s a hair product, you can’t make it worse by adding silicone in it. As per my experience, nothing decreases foaming better than silicones.
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@Belassi, I agree, experimenting is the best way of learning. I would also add that trying to copy an existing product is a good starting point. It will help to understand which ingredients to buy. I guess your first 15 ingredients were not just a random mix. You probably had a product that you were trying to make in mind.
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@Dr Catherine Pratt, I noticed that the cheaper it is the more “chemical” is the smell. I am guessing that the volatile solvent that is used to separate oil from water might affect it.
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Humblebee and me if you don’t have any experience. Swiftcraftymonkey blog (paid subscription) for more advanced. Also read lists of ingredients of as many products as you can find. Go to a shopping mall and collect as many samples as you can. Samples always have lists of ingredients on them. Research every ingredient one by one to understand what are they doing. Very soon you will start noticing trends. You will notice that most of ‘tradition’ lotions start ‘Aqua, Glycerin..’ that most of them contain Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, and preserved with phenoxyethanol and end on limonene, linalool, geraniol etc.
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@Doreen have you tried oat silk? It’s simply oats flour. It’s ok for ‘claims’ doesn’t mess up rheology and has a neuthal smell. I agree proteins smell terrible. I don’t know what to do with that bag of silk, I don’t even use fragrances to hide that smell ?
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@Doreen I don’t mind synthetic fragrances. I would used them if I had an access to good quality materials, but since I don’t I prefer not using anything at all.
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@Doreen, talking about terrible smells, nothing is worse for me than silk amino acids. Phenoxyethanol really smells like flowers comparing to it.
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I also add 0.1% to de-ionised water, which is probably not too scientific but who knows if it’s trully de-ionized or not.
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I was looking for fatty acid profile for rosehip oil but didn’t find anything comprehensive… @Doreen, is the chart you have list INCI names of oils, or just names of oils in Dutch? I know must of INCI names.
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@Doreen, the first thing that an average consumer does when trying a new product is smelling it. Smell is a huge part of the decision making (unfortunately). I have a friend, who knows that I formulate without colorants and fragrance, but every single time I show her a new product… yes, she smells it….
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@Doreen, I have two versions, one is mixed with sorbic acid and caprylyl glycol, another with ethylhexylglycerin. Both have very similar strong “chemical” smell.
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@Doreen, I like rosehip oil but the oldest product I made with it is only 3 months. Do you know if it’s stable? What I mean is, say, grapeseed oil is utterly unstable and gets rancid in months but I can’t find information about rosehip oil.
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Thank you @Fekher I found it. It’s sold under commercial name phenonip on lotioncrafter.
https://www.ulprospector.com/en/na/PersonalCare/Detail/1022/42562/Phenonip
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Wow!!! That’s a strong one! I have a blend of Methylparaben and Propylparaben. Will add phenoxyethanol and hope it would work. But I will definitely try to find it. It looks like it can kill anything
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Be careful with essential oils. You said it will be less than 1.5% of your formula, but this amount sounds extremely high. In fact even 0.5% is high. There are many legit researches showing evidence that EO’s are either cytotoxic or phototoxic or both. I can share papers and links to sources. I personally use them only in rinse off products.