ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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@Doreen, I actually thought that all Ultrez variations are carbomers and C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is not considered carbomer. I know they both are polyacrylic acid but now I am confused… I used Ultrez 30, which takes hours to hydrate and its INCI is carbomer. I also used Carbomer 980 and I don’t like it at all. My favorite product is Gel Maker Powder by makingcosmetics. Its INCI is C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
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@Dtdang I agree but it’s better for caucasian skin.
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Reduce % of hemp oil. Will be better for your formula anyway. It’s iodine value is too high.
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There is a research saying that niacinamide works better with N-Acetyl Glucosamine for skin lightening. 4% of Niacinamide 2% of NAG, as per the research. You can have a look here: https://www.activeformulas.com/collections/powder
Other than that from the point of view of active ingredients your formula seems ok.
General comments:add 0.2% of tocopherol to prevent oils from oxidation;
add EDTA as part of your preservative system.
Points to consider:Your oil phase is very high. What emulsifier do you use? Did you calculate HLB of the system (will it separate in a month)?
Stearic acid is very draggy. Consider cetyl alcohol instead.
What oils do you use? Are they commedogenic? What is iodine value (will they go rancid in 3 months?) -
I really wonder why it’s so liquid! Try kick out experiment. May be its your preservative or fragrance? Because other inputs we used are the same. How much carbopol do you use? I used 0.5%
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This table gives a good idea. There’s also ultrez 30 that isn’t here. It’s performance is advertised as better than the one of 20. My opinion Is that, even 30 doesn’t really tolerate electrolytes.
I personally prefer acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. It’s not carbomer, but works similarly. It has better sensorial and is used in many products. -
Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol are very similar indeed. I would say the only noticeable difference, cetyl is less draggy, so I proposed cetearyl.
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It’s carbopol. It takes several hours to hydrate. It works perfectly and leaves mat finish, as you wanted. Just leave for 2-2.5 hours prior to neutralizing. I used parabens because I don’t have your preservative.
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@megcapati, these lumps?
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Well, it includes KOH, which means it might have high pH. This formula is very strange to me. Looks like a combination of old and new.
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I agree with Belassi. Everone has an opposite problem. But if you want to add drag to your lotion add stearic acid. Cetearyl Alcohol will work as well (it is rather draggy without silicones)
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@megcapati, your excerpt about adding xatham would make sense, if you said that you couldn’t reach desired viscosity, but that definitely doesn’t explain white lumps. I will run this experiment on the weekend. I am very curious why it doesn’t work.
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@Jdawgswife76 I regret buying them. I tried to incorporate them in hair conditioner. The smell was unbearable.
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Well, you should request it because you won’t be able to figure out if their explanation is true.
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Camphor, eucalyptus and menthol.
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Combination of essential oils and triglycerides doesn’t give you “cleansing oil”. It will leave oily film on skin.
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Provide the detailed formula with INCI and %. It could be many things. Too much of thickener for example. Siligel contains xantham, it will rub off if you use too much.
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@megcapati Add EDTA to water. Have your 1% of MAP is a separate cup, heat the water with EDTA, take a spatula (spoon whatever) and make a vortex, then add MAP while mixing. This is a good way of mixing MAP. You can use overhead stirrer but not really required. 1% will mix well without any equipment. I mix up to 4 like this. Let me know if it doesn’t work, I will run it on a weekend, since I am very curious why it doesn’t work for you.
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@shireen, agree with above comments. Percentages are crucial. As well as INCI of ewax, preservative (B3’s INCI is Niacinamide).
Why do you need to neutralise stearic acid?
Just curious, was it Naturallythinking soap making class that you took? -
@Perry, I hope you don’t mind me tagging you, just very interested in your opinion. This LOI surprised me, KOH and Salycilic in one product.. It means to me that Salycilic Acid is not active at all. And in general this LOI looks to me like a weird combination of the old and new technologies. Would you disagree?
Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Water, Propylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Palmitic Acid & Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, Glycol Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Polyquaternium-7, Salicylic Acid, Terpineol, Thymol, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Limonene, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool Hexyl, Cinnamal
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@KingRoland78, I don’t work with high viscosities but buying an overhead stirrer was a game changer for me. I guess you would have to invest more than $80 in your stirrer though (it has to be powefull). Check Chineese stirrers on ebay, those are much cheaper yet do the job.
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@megcapati I see what is the problem now. MAP is tricky to dissolve. Heat your waterphase to approx 50C. Measure 1% separately, create a vortex in your water (with a spatula, you don’t need a mixer) and add MAP. Then add carbopol. It should work.
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@UsmanAli then your pH meter is brocken. Pond put a detailed explanation on why you should not use soap on your face on their website (spoiler: because of it’s high pH). It’s an anti acne product with salicylic acid. There is absolutely no way it has a pH of 11!
https://www.ponds.com/ph/skinspiration/cleansing/why-you-may-want-to-ditch-your-body-soap.html
Get a subscription for this blog and read about pH:
https://swiftcraftymonkey.blog/misconceptions-about-ph-it-isnt-a-series-of-steps/
and about surfactants:
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@Doreen, I mostly use aloe in products like forming face wash or micellar water. Frankly I am not even persuaded it does anything for skin. As per my observation all these “natural goodness” like honey powder, plant extracts, oatsilk can be difficult to work with. Regarding allantoin, I didn’t find my wa around it.
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Thank you @EVchem. I will try to run a tiny batch with sepiplus.