Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Carbomer Product for a “Cushiony” O/W Body Cream?

  • Carbomer Product for a “Cushiony” O/W Body Cream?

    Posted by spadirect on November 8, 2018 at 8:44 pm

    Which carbomer product would you recommend might work well in a formulation in order to create a “cushiony” effect when applying and rubbing out an O/W body cream?

    As there are so many branded carbomer products on the market, it would be interesting to learn about key performance differences among them in the experience of cosmetic chemists. 

    Which specific carbomer products do you like for formulating body creams?

    Dirtnap1 replied 5 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 8, 2018 at 11:07 pm

    This table gives a good idea. There’s also ultrez 30 that isn’t here. It’s performance is advertised as better than the one of 20. My opinion Is that, even 30 doesn’t really tolerate electrolytes.
     I personally prefer acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. It’s not carbomer, but works similarly. It has better sensorial and is used in many products.

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    November 9, 2018 at 12:40 am

    I second acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Been using it in my latest formulations and has been a godsend. I personally use Pemulan TR-2 I believe.

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 10, 2018 at 11:20 am

    Seppic’s Sepimax Zen: it’s not a carbomer, but has very good sensorials and it can handle a huge load of electrolytes!

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 10, 2018 at 11:28 am

    @ngarayeva001
    What C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer do you mean exactly that you prefer? Ultrez 20 and 21 are also C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, but different than Pemulen TR-2, as mentioned by @Dirtnap1.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 10, 2018 at 1:47 pm

    @Doreen, I actually thought that all Ultrez variations are carbomers and C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is not considered carbomer. I know they both are polyacrylic acid but now I am confused… I used Ultrez 30, which takes hours to hydrate and its INCI is carbomer. I also used Carbomer 980 and I don’t like it at all. My favorite product is Gel Maker Powder by makingcosmetics. Its INCI is C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. 

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 10, 2018 at 9:47 pm

    @ngarayeva001
    I agree, it is confusing. All carbomers are polymers of acrylic acid, but some of them are also cross linked. So in cases like these the INCI names don’t say everything about the identity of the product.

    This is especially annoying when repackers (like Making Cosmetics and several other DIY suppliers) only mention the INCI + their own name, like ‘Gel Maker Powder’.

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    November 13, 2018 at 6:34 pm

    I ran into the same issue when formulating my latest product. I could not for the life get the product to cooperate and could not replicate the benchmark going by the INCI alone.
    Talked to my rep with Lubrizol and she explained some of the differences as mentioned here. 
    The Pemulan TR-2 acts as an emulsifier and thickener. So my issue was using carbomer alone, and wasn’t emulsifying correctly. So really depends on what you are needing.

  • jeremien

    Member
    November 14, 2018 at 9:25 am

    Does Permulen TR-2 accept small amount of electrolyte?
     

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 14, 2018 at 11:50 am

    @jeremien
    Only a very small amount.

    @Dirtnap1
    Have you tried Pemulen EZ-4U? I don’t know if it can handle more electrolytes, but it can emulsify the highest levels of oil (up to 50%).

  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    November 14, 2018 at 4:45 pm

    Doreen- I have a sample of the EZ-4U but I have not played around with it just yet. It is more expensive than the TR-2, so that was also a factor. I do have a product in the works that I may need to try the EZ in!

Log in to reply.