ngarayeva001
Forum Replies Created
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Unless supplier specifies otherwise I always add all polymeric emulsifiers to oil phase because it makes processing easier. Most of polymeric emulsifiers can be heated but I add them to oil phase after ingredients that need heating are fully melted (and beaker is off heating plate). List of polymeric emulsifiers/thickeners I processed this way without any issues: Zen, Sepinov EMT 10, Aristoflex AVC, Aristoflex Silk, Pemulen Ez4U, Ultrez 30, Ultrez 21.
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@ZivBA, please post all ingredients and the process. The process is key for w/o viscosity. Are you pairing emulsifiers? Are you applying high shear after temperature drops below 40c?
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10% of beeswax? That’s an interesting approach to deal with w/o viscosity:)
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Gluconalactone is a chelator too. You can add much more than 0.1%.
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Maybe the right solution is to stop relying on EWG? Seriously put EWG in search function of this forum and read what chemists say.
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Well, if you are willing to be resourceful you can find almost everything. It’s the matter of price and your willingness to spend hours on repackagers websites across the globe. You can even find Dow’s w/si surfactants is you are willing to use google translate and order from places like Russia. What are you looking for? Maybe I saw it somewhere.
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Add some light silicone. I would use D5, it works well for oily skin. Also check refractive index of your oils. I might be wrong but I recal CCT is high.
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It should be above 7. I tried to reduce it to 6 once and the product changed smell and colour. It’s a nice surfactants (goes well in face washes) but it’s pretty ph sensitive unfortunately.
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I would say 500 is on a veeeery low end.
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MAP will not dissolve at 20% and you will have precipitation. Also those are derivatives that are converted into LAA by one’s skin, it is nearly impossible to predict how much would convert and how much would be lost.
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It won’t be stable even if you add antioxidants and keep it in freezer. Retinol is utterly unstable. I am talking about actual retinol not derivatives. Tretinoin is even worse.
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Retinol is often supplied in CCT + antioxidants
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With the face wash, it’s the same product, same equipment, same ingredients that I already used. Re equipment: beaker, stirring magnet and steel spatula. I have been making this exact product for over 2 years on a regular basis and this is the first time it changes colour. I thought it’s a preservative and prepared solution of just preservative in the water (from the same container). Have been observing it for several days and there is no change of colour.
Re chelator, although citric acid isn’t the best chelator it’s sufficient to make SLMI transparent. I still use 0.1% of Na2 EDTA.
Regarding tranexamic acid gel, this is the first time I have made it. I wouldn’t be surprised if it changed colour as it’s a new ingredient for me but I have no explanation for the face wash.
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I tried to increase pH to 10 and decrease to 2 to see if color would change. It didn’t. I also observed germaben in water to see if it would change color. Again it didn’t. I am very puzzled.
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Fractionated coconut oil is routinely used in oil in water emulsions.
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@MarkBroussard are you using any suspending agents (carbopol aqua sf, etc)? 10% is impressive. My understanding was the max is 7% with yield modifiers.
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Check for resources here: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/137/need-formulating-services-here-are-some-contacts#latest
to make it clear, consultations aren’t free.
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SCI isn’t meant to be used at any substantial amount in a liquid product. It’s used at 1-3% and if you add more it will eventually precipitate. If you need a similar surfactant that is watersoluble use SLMI. It dissolves at around 80C. Chelator is needed if clarity is important (well chelator is always needed).
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Are you in the US? I know a couple of places in Europe.
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@SuMorBla, I don’t recommend replacing ethoxydiglycol. It’s sold in the US. In theory you can replace it with propylene glycol but the serum will be less aesthetically pleasing.
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@abierose, I don’t think they are right re dimethicone 500. It’s not too sensitive.
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Dimethicone 5 isn’t volatile. It can be heated and I always add it to heated oil phase. You can’t heat cyclomethicones (D5, D6), phenyl trimethicone, and anything that’s volatile (cetiol ultimate, isododecane etc). If you do, you will notice it starts steaming. It’s pretty obvious when it happens.
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Decision to buy a product is taken emotionally based of the first 10 seconds impression. I don’t think anyone will notice an effect after 2 hours.
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As mentioned by Abdullah and Paprik, most probably contamination issue.
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@jemolian, thank you very much for the link! I saw this table but couldn’t find a source.