[mikethair]

As the Co-founder of Indochine Natural (2006 - 2023) I avoided the use of synthetic preservatives. I used ‘Hurdle Technology.’ This is because a growing number of consumers are questioning preservative safety.

Hurdle Technology intelligently combines different preservation factors. These will restrict microbial growth. But a qualified cosmetic scientist must apply it. And the production facility should have testing facilities. I qualified in both cases and built a dedicated physical chemistry and microbiology lab integrated with my factory in Malaysia and Ho Chi Minh City. I also employed a QC Manager.

Most important is the strict application of good manufacturing practice (GMP). Also, appropriate packaging and low water activity. Plus low or high pH values. These elements, when combined, can restrict microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. Also important is the need to formulate with non-chemical multifunctional antimicrobial ingredients. These include plant-derived essential oils and extracts.

Of course all of the products we produced were subject to laboratory cosmetic preservative efficacy testing. This checks that there is zero microbe growth.

Dr Mike Thair

Co-Founder Indochine Natural

[mikethair]

I manufactured shampoo bars (plus a lot of other skincare products) when I co-founded Indochine Natural in 2006 which ran until 2023. These shampoo bars were particularly popular with one of our Japanese wholesale customers and did well in Japan. I also did other Private Label shampoo bars for various brands globally.

I only used essential oils for fragrance, and the key was following the basic rules of fragrance formulation, and understanding the role of base, middle and top notes. It’s something I have done for nearly 30 years, and am still doing.

I developed and tested around six(6) or more fragrance blends that were tested and accepted by my Japanese wholesaler. This process took about nine (9) months which included soap bar curing for 30 days in a temp/humidity-controlled cure room (very important) and extensive consumer testing.

I should also mention that the basic soap bar formulation plays a role in retaining the fragrance and transferring it to the hair during washing.

Also worth noting is that if you blow dry your hair, you will not get much fragrance retention.

[mikethair]

Call me old fashioned, but to me a serum is simply a blend of oils applied to the skin to moisturise and hydrate. And if the correct oils are selected, they can do wonders for the skin.

And from your formulation, I only see one oil (Sunflower). The remaining ingredients are all synthetics.

From my experience as the co-founder of Indochine Natural in 2006, it’s these synthetics that cause a lot of skin problems. And as a result, the niche we focused on was all-natural skincare, including various formulations of skin oils. These sold amazing well globally, and I made good incomes from this product line.

So, this is just my comment, and I am sure many will disagree.

[mikethair]

Thanks

[mikethair]

I’m not quite sure what you trying to say with your statement:

“Actually, few allergens per each esential oil are identified; that’s why
updated lists or allergens include more essential oils as allergens. “

In my experience the allergens for each essential oil are identified in detail. And with modern advances in laboratory analytical equipment, it is continually improving.

• This reply was modified 3 weeks, 4 days ago by  mikethair.

[mikethair]

My preference would always be to use high-quality essential oils as these are not affected by heat. But having said that, most chemists have challenges in formulating attractive essential oil blends so they revert to synthetic fragrances.

[mikethair]

Yes indeed. I have exactly the same memories of the 70s. I backpacked extensively through SE Asia. Those were the days!!!!

[mikethair]

My approach was a lot simpler for an oil I produced and exported globally 2006-2023 under my brand Indochine Natural. It was a formulation of carrier oils (Jojoba, Sesame, Olive, Coconut, and Sunflower) with an essential oil fragrance. And no synthetics.

[mikethair]

Best to direct this query to your local cosmetics regulatory authority. And in posts like this, always a good idea to mention your location.

[mikethair]

My approach is completely different. I have formulated and produced since 2006 a body wash by saponifying a range of plant oils. And by modifying my saponification calculations, a small amount of the oils remain un-saponified, thus achieving a similar effect you are talking about.

I manufactured and exported my body wash range globally, plus a range of Private Label body wash. These were very popular products and a great money earner.

[mikethair]

Yes, indeed, regulators may not have hands-on experience with preservation, but they are the regulators, and as a company, we jump through their hoops and place our products on their markets to generate company income. Basically, as a managing director, I would fail in my duties if I did not enter these markets once I had met all regulatory compliance requirements.

• This reply was modified 4 days, 1 hour ago by  mikethair.

[mikethair]

Agreed, and thanks for this….much appreciated.

[mikethair]

If you say that “Hurdle technology is not “intelligent”, it’s duct tape for microbiological failures at best.”, then from my side, it was good enough for our products to be accepted by cosmetic compliance authorities globally, including the EU and Japan, then I think that is good enough for any company.

When you say “Qualified cosmetic chemists,” are you suggesting I am not qualified? On what basis do you make this assumption? I think that with a PhD, MSc, and BSc and 20 years of experience as a co-founder of two skincare manufacturing facilities, I might be qualified, but it’s only my humble opinion. And I choose to use Hurdle Technology. And we had no cases of “consumers rubbing E. coli, fungal infections, and bacteria soup all over their faces.” And yes, we had rigorous testing in place.

And your definition of essential oils as “unstandardized allergens with weak antimicrobial efficacy” is not one I have heard before. Like to back it up with some scientific literature?

And where have I said that EOs are preservatives?

And yes, we were GMP Certified, and we relied on third-party validation of our own lab testing, it’s all part of GMP compliance.

I would be very interested to learn more about your background, as I’m always willing to learn.

• This reply was modified 4 days, 22 hours ago by  mikethair.

[mikethair]

<div>For more on the “non-chemical multifunctional antimicrobial ingredients” I refer you to the follwinng article in the published literature:</div>

Chen, T., Chang, H. Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population.
Sci Rep 14, 19053 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-69624-9

doi.org

Deciphering trends in replacing preservatives in cosmetics intended for infants and sensitive population - Scientific Reports

The present study aims to investigate the current trends in replacing conventional preservatives with multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties for preservation of cosmetics for infants or sensitive population, to decrease their potential for contact dermatitis. We first reviewed the labels … Continue reading

[mikethair]

Yes indeed, and for those of us going down the path of natural/clean skincare, the only option is Hurdle. And yes, I agree 100%, that you do need a rigorous testing regime, and this is why I built an onsite testing laboratory and employed a QC to manage it.

Fact is that all-natural skincare is a significant sector these days, so my investment was worth it, especially coupled with my company’s GMP status.

• This reply was modified 5 days, 1 hour ago by  mikethair.

[mikethair]

These are words I and many others use regularly. I did not define them originally.

Try Google for definitions.

[mikethair]

Hi Perry,

Yes, you are correct. There was a global market for this product I formulated and produced, but it didn’t suit everyone. The prime reason for purchase was that customers wanted something that was free from synthetics.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 3 days ago by  mikethair.

[mikethair]

Thanks for this historical insight, this is the first I have heard this.

[mikethair]

No.

[mikethair]

Hi Abdullah,

I produced and distributed this shampoo globally from 2006 until 2023. I also formulated and manufactured it as a Private Label for a few brands globally. It was a tremendously popular product, and even today, I receive enquiries for it.

[mikethair]

Hi ketchito,

The allergens for each essential oil are well documented, and not difficult to find. And when formulating an essential oil blend, these allergens are additive.

As a professional formulator, this is what I do, and take full responsibility for every formulation.

[mikethair]

Then my advice would be to direct your inquiry in writing (email should be OK) to the cosmetics regulatory authority in Hawaii USA. The Chemists Corner in my opinion is not the place to have definitive answers on regulatory issues.

[mikethair]

Hi again Abu-Hafss,

“What I understand about your approach is that first we convert Oil into soap solution and then mix into the blend of the surfactants. Am I right?”

No, No, NO!! The saponified oil is the surfactant, and there is no requirement to dilute this surfactant or use other surfactants. FACT: LIQUID SOAP IS A SURFACTANT.

“Next, do we get the same benefits/results as what we get by adding oil to surfactants using emulsification?”

NO. I can’t understand why you would want to add oil to surfactants.

“Lastly, what are the advantages of your approach other than the cost of base would be much cheaper than the emulsifiers?”

The main approach is that there is no use of synthetics, which are a significant source of skin irritation. This is feedback from our customers over 20 years, many who had issues with the normal synthetic-based washes.

I suggest you study the process of producing liquid soap using whole plant oils via saponification.

You are welcome to email me directly at mikethair@gmail.com

[mikethair]

Hi Abdullah,

Good question.

We saponify the oil by adding a strong base. Chemically, it is a fairly simple reaction (strong base + water + oil). And therefore there is not any “suspension” of oil. Saponification produces a single phase of liquid soap.

Kind regards,

Dr Mike Thair

[mikethair]

Hi Abu-Hafss,

I’m not sure of your definition of “standard procedure,” but it is something I did for 17 years until my retirement.

And global brands such as Dr Bronner’s use saponification to produce various washes, and they use similar approaches. We call it ‘super-fatting” where some oil remains un-saponified to add a skin moisturising effect to the product.

And yes, many brands opt for using synthetics…..it’s a lot easier.

Kind regards,

Dr Mike Thair