Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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And back to the original poster, yes, to make this type of product you would most definitely make this product. However, there are other Formulations that use vastly different raw materials much easier to obtain. Think “a pleasant smelling, free-flowing adsorbant powder that sucks up the “oils” and if possible leaves a highly pleasant residual effect.” That is a simplification but will help you a bit I hope.
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The Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is an AkzoNobel product as is the Flexan II. This Formula looks familiar due to the fact that several years ago the Evonik reps were giving out a Hair Care Formulations brochure that highlighted this as a dry shampoo. It was when they were first promoting the powder to water/cream Formulations. Only the backbone of the formula though.
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Same here. It was one of those materials that was exciting to work with. I liked the results. However, for one reason or another, it never went anywhere.
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I have used it. I get to try a lot of these materials early on. It was ok. Perhaps having it linked to orange peel is attractive to marketing. The price was prohibitive.This is a non-starter of a conversation for me.
- Define what “natural” really means. It has no definition. Continuing with a vague marketing definition provided zero assistance during the R&D process and in fact will be a hindrance.
- Let’s say you want to be “natural.” Defining this as plant-based materials minimally processed is a great start. (You do need to add naturally occurring minerals in cases of pigments and sunscreens). What is the allowable processing? Luckily for us, COSMOS defines these processes in an appendix. Now, that opens a huge array of acceptable emulsifiers.
- Another option is to follow a raw material standard. Searching UL Prospector for ECOCERT emulsifiers alone gave me over 50 acceptable materials, all with good and substantiated “natural” pedigrees.
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When did EDTA become viscosity controlling? What did I miss?
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There is no set ratio that you can plug into a Formula and automatically get the proper solubilization. You need to determine this empirically in the Lab.
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This is a frustration for many Formulators. When discussing a raw material, the client will cite one of these small studies. Unfortunately, they submit these small studies as “proof” that they can make claims.
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Solvents.
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Chemistry… These are the situations where Chem 101 come in handy.
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You can find numerous starting Formulations online for these products. That is an Evonik Formulation that you posted above.
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It is not unheard of to get some irritation at 5%. I will look for the citation later, bi it is even more pronounced in person’s of Asian descent.
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The DEA only addresses the 0.3% THC threshold for Interstate Commerce. This is much lower than what you will get from most hemp-based CBD’s.There are some great studies out there performed in Canada, UK, and Israel showing that to be effective there must be a 20:1 or 10:1 ratio of CBD to THC, called the entourage effect. This can also be shown anecdotally, but of course, that carries less credibility.One of the issues is the processing of Cannabis-Based versus Hemp-Based CBD’s. Hemp contains rough 3.5% of the CBD that is contained in an equal mass of cannabis-based CBD. I have personally seen and performed (once) the CO2 Extraction of Cannabis-based CBD and the yield is spectacular. I have seen the process done on Hemp-Based CBD and they have to use more organic solvents to extract the yield.Lastly, much of the promise behind CBD now is the role of the terpenes, compounds found in the Cannabis-Based CBD. These terpenes show great promise. Under the organic solvent extraction, the bulk of the terpenes are removed. In fact, they only test the terpenes in Cannabis-based CBD. Here is a screen clip of it reflected NT from a hemp-based product.
I could post the entire testing sheet but it has some IP on the full form. -
Kojic acid is unstable and also causes some inflammation. Hence the need for a sunscreen and other measures. These are not harmless actives.Kojic acid Dipalmitate is more stable but oil soluble.Niacinamide is also an irritant.
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We were supposed to manufacture at 2 AM. It was based on some overly complicated astrological moon cycle that peaked at a certain time. The owner of the company (which I never saw anywhere in the market) wanted to design Cosmetics to be “aligned” with the client’s “reading.” Sales signed her on because her check cleared.
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Keep in mind that “natural” is not the silver bullet of safety or marketing, especially as you move into larger “natural” markets or retailers. Remember that everyone, for the most part, is touting “natural” as well. Some communicate it better in their marketing, but in the end, you need to have a more universal marketing story that goes beyond a one-dimensional “natural” or “100% natural” claim.
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Here is a video posted by @Perry that will give you a comprehensive review of wt./wt.% notation. https://chemistscorner.com/useful-formulating-spreadsheet/The link to the Excel Template he uses was also posted; https://chemistscorner.com/wp-content/uploads/Formula%20template.xlsUsing this notation ensures accuracy in the scale-up and over time becomes much easier.
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@chemicalmatt You may be thinking of Curoxyl 42 which used to be an Essential Ingredient material. Vantage details them now.
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The Vortex is outdated. We use the Matrix now.
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There is no set speed. It is dependent upon so many factors. It takes Judgement and a knowledge of the different blades and their proper uses.
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Not stressful as much as entertaining. Marketers (in a larger setting) create a great deal entertainment. “A Bright white Body Wash using 45% Beldi Soap?” Sure, no problem.
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In our case, it was even worse. Initially, they wanted to use the special water, they wanted the finished goods aligned with Magnetic North (seriously) AND they wanted the product produced under some weird alignments of the astrological planets. Yes, this is true. This is what Sales brought us. In the end, when price versus benefit was considered, the special water became DI Water, I didn’t have to buy a compass and I didn’t have to come in at 2 something AM to make the product. True story.
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@Nouf It really all falls upon the accuracy and good procedures. Volumetric measurements are visually read and due to various reasons can vary widely. This inaccuracy can be compounded in scale-up. Weight measurements are always as accurate as a calibrated scale. In many cases to a 0.01 accuracy. This can not be obtained accurately with drops.
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We had a client once insist that we buy “magnetic water” that had been aligned by a “laser” in a cave in Ukraine. They had to have it. We priced it out for them vice deionized water from our water system. Guess what, they really didn’t need to have it then.
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Gunther said:Agree, drops ain’t accurate.
At least get an insulin syringe to measure <1 ml amounts.Or a Jeweler’s Scale. Insulin Syringes would add up fast in cost and shouldn’t be re-used under any circumstances. In the US at least they have the needle as part of the barrel and it can’t be removed. Recapping these syringes is a source of needle sticks. Being old enough to have seen some glass syringes still in use, I know that we moved away from them since even with autoclaving, they still had a significantly larger contamination rate.A jewelers scale (0.01×1000) would be much more accurate since you will avoid the error of parallax and as such your limit in accuracy is limited by the scale, not a less accurate volumetric measurement. -
I don’t care if you make an ounce. Drops are not accurate. The language of Formulation is wt/wt. percentage measurements and weighing material. The size of the Business is irrelevant.Without knowing the percentages, it is problematic to weigh-in.