Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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Ours is in a separate room, but we only use it for larger items. Our glassware all goes through our Labconco Glassware Washer. I have seen some labs use a dedicated (NO FOOD) stainless dishwasher as well. (Much less expensive).
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Any changes to your Formula, whatsoever would require the testing to be repeated.
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Tocopheryl acetate is insoluble in water, regardless of temperature. Glycerin would not solubulize it into an aqueous base. There are numerous credible references to find this information.
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Good manufacturing practices would ultimately dictate that you discard the entire batch. There really is no way around that. Some mistakes are costly.
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“Can we really increase penetration of Cosmetic products, and if so, should we?”“Do Botanicals deliver a Cosmetic benefit or are they marketing fluff?”
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Dr Catherine Pratt said:@markfuller thankyou for that good info!
hope you and family had a nice break over xmas!! best catherineYou also.This is a pretty common issue I deal with, working with naturally compliant Formulations. Clients will propose a botanical (White Willow Bark for example) and then make all sorts of acne claims. It simply can’t be done in the United States. Some lines will try marketing strategies that “imply” the benefit (“we never said acne…), but it is naive to believe that the FDA will miss the inference as well. -
“Natural” ingredients or Botanicals aren’t allowed under the US OTC Monographs. Here is a summary of permitted ingredients, although I believe adapalene was added but is controlled by patent.
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Ok.
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We had a similar issue years ago with a Natrosol product. We did a lab mock-up and it was the HEC. They took it back as a return no questions asked, provided a different batch and it never repeated.
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nerdymum said:Microformulation said:I also believe 2% Panthenol is bringing little to the Formula, except for some stickiness perhaps. I would bring that down as well.I also hope you used better process instructions (manufacturing details) than in the original Formula, solely due to the fact that silicone spatulas and immersion blenders do not provide appropriate mixing energies.
Where I live, I don’t have access to quality formulators, which is why the hiccup here. I am looking into taking classes myself and intend on purchasing Perry’s course in the near future. In the meantime, I am eternally grateful for your help.
As you get into Formulating, one of the first hurdles will be in transitioning over to better sources. Many people’s interest in Formulating is initially piqued through their participation in the DIY blogs and other sources that don’t really meet a Technical standard;- The author with appropriate Credentials in the subject.
- Citations and Footnotes from reputable Journals and sources.
- The Author is not selling a Product as the actual purpose of their narrative.
Reputable sources such as the CIR are mentioned in this Forum frequently. The CIR is much more reputable than the EWG. For usage rates, you can refer to supplier documents as well.
It is certainly possible to get initial exposure to the Industry. Courses, webinars, and especially work experience in a manufacturing plant will certainly be a big help. -
Many Formulators have moved away from Olivem 1000 for these very reasons. If you read the guidance they do recommend adding Glyceryl Stearate to the product to keep the Olivem down a bit. Another issue I have encountered in Production is the fact that Olivem 1000 is very process dependent. Variations in mixing speeds and energies can produce different final viscosity. In addition, we would wait 24 hours before testing.“Olivem 1000 is best utilized as a co-emulsifier in moisturizing creams or skin softening lotions. We recommend using 5-7% Olivem 1000 with 0.5%-1% Glyceryl Stearate, 1%-4% Fatty Alcohol (Behenyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol), and 0.2% XanThix to form a stable emulsion.”Many perceive a product “absorbs” or it “sits on the surface.” This is incorrect. The feeling of “absorption” comes from spreadability, an issue with Olivem. You can offset this to some extent with other emollients. But that is a discussion in and of itself.
And I agree. If given the choice, I would use Lanette N.
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@ngarayeva001 You are spot on!
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4% Xanthan Gum is far too high.
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“After 6 years though, it became a bit too much for me, and instead of
expanding, I decided to put the business to rest for a while.”That is a fantastic example of my point. I see so many Cosmetic lines slow their own growth by not delegating (Formulation, Manufacturing). In the end, you can choose to excel in either role or you can crisis manage both. -
@Cafe33 This is actually the area I work in primarily, entrepreneurial lines. We identify barriers to the market to our clients as we feel their success is our success. Of the most common barriers I see;
- Unrealistic Budget. You need a Business Plan. You are starting a business after all.
- Sales and Marketing. Too many clients spend far too little in this area. A successful product wins in the Marketing.
- Unrealistic Inventory of Skills. In my experience (and my opinion through anecdotal experiences), you are either a Business Person or a Technical Service Provider. A Technical person generally does 90% Technical and very little sales/marketing. A Businessperson will need to do 90% Business (Marketing, suppliers, order fulfillment, promotions, logos, websites, mail servers). You either need to outsource one or you will find that you can’t be outstanding in either.
Again, this presumes they are looking to grow. I understand that by no means is revenue an indicator of success they seek, but in these cases, this has been my experience.
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Just my advice, but I would read up on some Technical Journals, especially ones that discuss sustainability measures. There are other ways; limited packaging, low water Formulas, humanitarian reinvestment in your raw material sources, cold processing, and many others. You can gain an advantage by striving to be more sustainable, rather than just saying you are natural. https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2020/02/20/Sustainable-Beauty-strategies-for-the-2020s
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@abierose Rather than start a tangent, I would use the search function as this is a recurring topic. I know Perry has done a few posts on equipment. And no offense intended to anyone, I honestly don’t endorse any of my entrepreneur clients even manufacturing themselves. A Cosmetic Line is a Business in which to be successful will require your time in non-Technical roles.
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Yes, but is it good cGMP? There are other ways to address sustainability in your line without compromising an aspect of your preservative system.
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I also believe 2% Panthenol is bringing little to the Formula, except for some stickiness perhaps. I would bring that down as well.I also hope you used better process instructions (manufacturing details) than in the original Formula, solely due to the fact that silicone spatulas and immersion blenders do not provide appropriate mixing energies.
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Did you pay a Chemist for that? It is essentially a stock DIY Formulation posted online. Based upon another Formula created in 2009 by yet a third person.I see numerous issues with the posted Formula (ingredient usage rates, process issues, scaleability) that were carried over.
